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  1. Today
  2. Removing a screw on oil filter

    I haven't watched the video but if access allows I've used a piece of reasonable gritty sandpaper wrapped round the filter and a bit of elbow grease and it should do the trick👍....there's a special place in hell reserved for the person who put the oil filter where it is on the MX5 Mk1 engine😅....
  3. Ohlins Rear Shock S46 KBA91123

    Want be difficult to make a link to fit, if the Ohlins one screws off the shock you have... any engineering company could do it, also check out engineering groups online local to you..I and many in my group have made motorcycle/car parts for old/ none stock parts..Can you remove the OE bottom fitting/will it fit straight on the Ohlins shock.. Sorry i do not have an Ohlins in the shed to check.

    I can't see past Bridgestone battleax BT023, I'm on my 3rd set. Brigante7
  5. PJS

    Sounds very much like a temperature sensor issue. If it is giving a false reading indicating the engine is overheating, then that would explain the fan and light coming on. Starting from cold when the ECU thinks the engine is hot will result in hot settings for a cold engine which would explain the poor starting and running. Possibly in the extreme case the ECU will decide the engine is too hot to be started and will shut the bike down completely.
  6. Hi All. I'm looking to fit a Ohlins Rear Shock S46 KBA91123 that came off my Funduro onto my 700X 2012 Alas - nothing simple is it! The bottom fitting on the shocker is a fork and the NC has a knuckle with needle rollers. Believe it or not, I've tried Ohlins dealers in the UK and here in Belgium/Holland and can't get a reply - looks like the 'too difficult light' came on or something..... Can anyone tell me if there is a Ohlins part to convert this bottom fitting? Cheers all.
  7. Yesterday
  8. PJS

    Hi welcome to the forum . I’m sorry to hear of your problems I’m sure that there will people with far more technical knowledge than me ( not difficult) with suggestions to try and solve them.
  9. PJS

    Hi. New on here, and I hope someone can help. I have an NC700S DCT with what I assume is an electrical problem. When I turn the ignition on the fan and overtemp light come on. (Engine cold) when it first happened it was intermittent. Initially it would start and run. Then it struggled to start. Now won't start at all. I have stripped all the body work off and checked all plugs I can get to for water. Nothing. No sign of corrosion either. Stumped.
  10. Removing a screw on oil filter

    Using a specific cup type removal tool should always do the job. Have used chain type, but you need to be careful you don’t damage any thing else on the bike. Most of the time these probs are caused because they are done up far too tightly. I once saw the torque setting Honda quoted, it was bloody daft. I ignore that setting and just use my hand and common sense. No probs with leaks or removal ever.
  11. Just seen TMF remove a very stubborn oil filter (from his Triumph). Used all the usual tricks but nothing worked, although he did admit he didn't whack the screwdriver right through. Ended up drilling holes in the filter removing tool then screwing self tappers into the filter through the holes in the tool (clearance holes in tool). That shifted the bugger. Useful idea if all else fails, he didn't have a strap wrench though. Worth a look.

    Me, I am multilingual, speak several languages I speak fluent English, a smattering of Bad and utterly fluent in speaking Cr@p.
  13. Honda Dax to replace Monkey????

    I don’t know about cars but according to the motorcycle sales figures I saw recently Honda are still the top selling Brand in the U.K. so if they are in trouble then the makes certainly must be. Due to the fact that leisure riding is likely to be outlawed for the foreseeable future the bikes I have will almost certainly be the last ones I will ever own so what new models will come to the U.K. will not affect me.
  14. Honda Dax to replace Monkey????

    I think there’s something else going on here. Their car sales in Europe have dropped nearly 20% over two years from what I can find out so far. They withdrew from F1 rather sharply, which is very expensive, catching Red Bull by surprise. They appear to be reducing the number of bikes they are bringing to the UK, accepting that we are a drop in the ocean as a market. I wonder if it’s not coming a bit unravelled for them, at least in the UK. There’s just a few things that seem odd to me. Probably putting 2 and 2 together and making 5. ?🤔 Honda UK’s published accounts for year ending 31 March 2020 look interesting.
  15. Honda Dax to replace Monkey????

    On the other hand try buying the Benelli version, I waited weeks and it's still the same if you want a new one today. Perhaps Honda got things a bit wrong and people are looking for something a bit sportier looking ??
  16. Honda Dax to replace Monkey????

    I can understand them being of limited appeal and they have been around for over two years so I guess most people who want one have one much like the Super Cub.
  17. Honda Dax to replace Monkey????

    That's sad news indeed, I wonder why exactly, I guess lack of sales is more than likely, so not enough pre millennials actually buying one?
  18. Honda Dax to replace Monkey????

    Sadly no more Monkeys according to Honda.
  19. Honda Dax to replace Monkey????

    The new/latest Grom has a 5 speed 'box, which I think was a major oversight on the original MSX125/Grom, I hope they continue the Monkey, it's retro cool/funky rather than just cool/funky like the MSX'/Grom, I would certainly consider a Monkey, rather than an MSX'/Grom as the seat is much more comfortable, but especially if it comes with a five speed box rather than the four speed?
  20. Read today that there is a strong rumour that in Asia Honda are going to replace the Monkey with a Dax Honda fitted with the new 125 engine from the latest Grom. It will interesting to see if it will come to Europe and/or the U.K. Even if it does I think I would prefer to keep the Monkey.
  21. Lowering

    That's very detailed and interesting, I'm sure other forum members will find that helpful. Whilst I'm glad you are satisfied with the changes you've made and being able to flat foot is good, I'm just wondering how long/many miles you rode the bike for before you carried out the changes, as I'm a little surprised that you haven't noticed any difference in the handling of your NC since your changes have been done? Just for reference, my current rides are my 2012 NC700X and a 2017 BMW G310R, so I can compare the classes/types of bike that you've had, I've had the NC'X for approaching 8 years and the 'G310R for three years, which has far better suspension than the NC'X does, what was your CB300 like?

    no wat u mean
  23. Lowering

    I’ve nothing better to do right now (January 2021) so I’ve put together a referenced summary of what I found useful when I looked at lowering the bike. If you’re new to the forum and thinking of lowering your NC you may find this post will save you a bit of time searching over the same ground. If time served NC members spot anything misleading or just plain wrong please post a correction. I ain’t no expert. Diagram below shows the swingarm, shock and suspension link arrangement. Note that on the NC the shock is the other way up. 1. Preload rear shock. 1.1 If you’ve got an adjustable shock try this website www.promecha.com.au. The website says PromechA is an Australian suspension specialist and in the technical section it gives the following advice :- Preload adjusts sag and so ride height but not stiffness. Setting the sag (preload) allows the bike the correct compromise to deal with both bumps and holes. Increasing the preload bike sits higher. Decreasing the preload bike sits lower and more risk of fully extending suspension (topping out). Too much sag (too little preload) will make the bike feel harsh on bumps, twitchy (front) or slow turning (rear). Too little sag (too much preload) will make the bike feel skittish on bumps when accelerating (front) or braking (rear) or slow turning (rear). 1.2 Honda owners manual :- Spring preload standard position 3. Position 1 to 2 to decrease spring preload (soft). [Soft? Compare with Promecha view that preload adjusts sag but not stiffness] Position 4 to 7 to increase spring preload (hard). [Compare with Promecha view] Adjust to suit load or road surface. 2. After-market replacement links to lower bike 2.1 Honda owners manual :- Advises against modifications from original design. 2.2 Suspension links Dogbone lengths - small effect on leverage, big effect on ride height. As per www.promecha.com.au Standard suspension links. 133.5 mm length centre to centre To lower 40 mm. Length 150 mm approx To lower 30 mm. Length ? To lower 25 mm. Length 141 mm as per my auction site replacement links. From Lust Racing £55 + p&p or the auction site for less e.g. £19 incl p&p from UK supplier. https://www.that auction site.co.uk/itm/Honda-NC700-750-25mm-Lowering-Kit-Dog-Bones-Suspension-Links/121450590746?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648 Longer links rotate the swingarm up by two degrees approx pushing the back wheel upwards into the wheel well. The bottom suspension mount will be closer to the ground and there will be little or no effect on preload. NB this is my view only. If you have a different view please post a reply. 2.4 Fitting See this thread for diy fitting. Scroll down to scottiedoug’s post with pics. http://www.nc700.co.uk/index.php?/topic/463-lowering-bike/&page=2&tab=comments#comment-20510 Fitting instructions supplied with links advise raising front forks by between 5 to 20 mm to lower front end to maintain geometry. However, see this post for an alternative view. http://www.nc700.co.uk/index.php?/topic/13775-lowering-the-front-forks/&tab=comments#comment-166516 To adjust front forks see this post - scroll down to guest johnakay. http://www.nc700.co.uk/index.php?/topic/463-lowering-bike/&page=2&tab=comments#comment-21622 Chain tension may need adjustment. See this thread. http://www.nc700.co.uk/index.php?/topic/22365-lowering-links-and-chain-tension/&tab=comments#comment-309898 30 and 40 mm lowering links - centre stand if fitted and side stand will require shortening. See this thread. http://www.nc700.co.uk/index.php?/topic/16191-lowering-kit-and-side-stand/&tab=comments#comment-206182 25 mm lowering links - shorter side stand not essential. Here's what I ended up doing. I'm a lightweight at 65 kg and ride solo, no panniers or top box. Decreasing the preload to the lowest setting was worth a try. But in 300 miles riding I didn't notice any real difference in handling or ride height. Maybe I need a few more kilos. Next I fitted the 141 mm links to lower the bike by 25 mm and increased the preload back to position 3. I didn't lower the front end. Chain tension slack remained in the 30 to 40 mm range so no adjustment. No centre stand fitted. Side stand props the bike up OK at a safe enough angle. After 300 miles of mixed road riding I'm satisfied with the modification. I'm getting my feet firmly down both sides now and feel no difference in handling. To be fair my riding style is on the cautious end of the scale so I don’t stray too far from the vertical or the speed limit. Bolder riders may report otherwise on the handling.

    We had an English exam today an we all dun good...
  25. "Trail" CT125

    I can only tell it like is is/was. He rang while i was at his desk:

    On second set of Continental Road Attack 2's. Great set tyres. Thinking trying out Metz ROADTEC 01 SE this summer.
  27. Front end refurb planned

    Bearing cups top and bottom ‘gently’ tapped into place with some help from my 15 yr old son. I put them in the freezer to try and shrink them, whacked them in place with a thick bit of timber to protect them and then used the old cups to tap them more gently into their seat. I know I should really use a bearing press but these are £100 and I think it’s a tool I’d seldom use so I tried the old brute force method. I’m now waiting for these parts to dry before reinstall. I cleaned these up with abrasive buffing wheels and then degreased with brake cleaner, then a hefty couple of coats of this stuff.
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