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The basic design down at the engine end is used on other Honda models. It uses a bolt-on steel bracket for the outer cable abutment. These don't always line up exactly with the clutch operating lever on the engine casing and the inner rubs at an angle where it exits the cable outer. The fix for this is highly technical , and involves bending the bracket (5) so the inner runs as near central in the sleeve as you can get it. Easy to do and well worth the effort. You can also get the inner rubbing a bit heavily up at the handlebar lever end if the cable run isn't quite right, t

I don't use a dealer. I train them, so see the level of recruit, the pressure they put them under, the management etc. Some are OK, some shouldn't be trusted with lego, none take care I do with my own work. Andy

It's like having 500 TV channels and then watching Corrie and Stenders, mostly just something to talk about down the pub. 10W97 fully sympathetic with added nigellium as used by TT winners just ticks boxes for some people. The dealers use 10W40 because they buy it in 50 gallon drums and can't be bothered to order anything special. Has anyone ever made a dealer change it again? Did they, or did they just write another bill out? They know naff all about DCT (or other things, for example that my CB handbook says oil at 8000 miles not 4000 as they told me when I picked it up) and don'

I tried extended experiments on the Wurth dry lubricant. It was brilliant in the summer but washed off in no time in the rain and winter weather. I am using a dry lubricant on an electric push bike and again it's brilliant until it rains. My guess is it's true of all dry lubricants. Mike

Hi Sid, No issues yet with the clutch !!! I've only had one 'failure' and that was a corroded wire on the ignition side. At the moment I'm considering replacing the fuel pump (second hand) as there does appear to be the occasional issue. Touch wood we keep going for a while yet :-)