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Likely using the wrong nomenclature, I mean where you stick a feeler gauge in between the taps on the cylinder head. I've picked up everything from YouTube basically. It was do it myself or pay Honda ever increasingly extortionate servicing prices and often finding out it hadn't been done properly anyway.

The telescopic magnet and kitchen paper towel are your friend.....😀

I don't automatically change brake fluid every two years. I measure the moisture content and use that as a guide. But I don't commute, nor do I ride in adverse weather unless on a trip, so my brake fluid always looks like new at two years. I use the five-year coolant too, when I first change it. I favour not disturbing things at the specified intervals if there is no real need. That said, at the OP's mileage I'd do both. +1 on replacing the oil (but not filter) again after a few hundred miles. Best get rid of the rest of the chocolate pudding.....

May be worth changing again in 1-2k miles as way of a flush.

Check the safety switches on the clutch lever and the side stand.

Contact Wemoto. They’ll make sure you get the right parts. Just put your bike and year into their website. Really good reliable company. I’m assuming you’re in the UK. Hope that helps

As long as it doesn't look like an alien blob you'll be fine.

Coolant tomorrow with valve timing, spark plugs and air box.

Don't worry about it. More importantly, has the brake fluid been changed and is the coolant due? Both on 2 year intervals rather than miles and both can ruin your day. Andy

As standard the front brake pads are sintered, Honda know best, EBC HH are as good if not better than OEM.

Manufacturing discrepancies and expansion/contraction might stress the radiator if both sides were bolted. If one side is secure, but still free to "float" slightly, no stressing can occur.

I think I have fixed the bike, at least I hope it's fixed. After much research trawling the internet, sifting out the shit rubbish that is talked on various forums I came to the conclusion that it was the shift motor to blame. I found it strange that an electric motor could be such a pain in the arse and cause the problem but I managed to get one off the bay and fitted it today. Took the bike out and drove 60 miles or so not sparing it any and doing a lot of needless gearshifts to work the motor hard using auto and manual, normal drive and sport 3 (is there any other mode but 3? ) and it perf