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As a teenager I was finishing a painstaking re-assembly of a Villiers 2T two-stroke twin and was about to mount the cylinders when I dropped a circlip into the crankcase. Horror! Take it all to bits again! Crikey! (or similar) My dad said “ the crank cheeks in a two stroke have to be a close fit in the crankcase to force the necessary gas flow. Turn the engine by hand until the crank cheek appears in the cylinder hole beside the conrod, and put a glob of stiff grease on the cheek. Then slowly turn the engine 360 deg until the crank cheek reappears, the circlip will be stuck in the grease

Gentlemen i think that i will follow the recommendation of the dealer although i am not convised of the outcome and that the most of you suggest and it seems logical to do. I bought this bike new for not to have any kind of trouble and you understand that this was kind of dissapointment for me. Except this the bike runs great and it suits my needs perfectly for a daily commuter and a Sunday ride at the beach with my wife, you know Greece in summer time has great places to go and get wet !! So today a big YES i would have bought it again if i had to make a choice for a new bike. As said above t

No one can know until it is either taken apart or fails completely. They certainly believe it's worth a look and that they can probably claim it back from Honda or they wouldn't offer. How can it turn out? 1. They fix it. 2. The new one is exactly the same, works but is a bit noisy. Run if for a year then sell it back to the same dealer. They lose all claims that there is any reason to reduce the value. 3. They stuff up the repair, it fails a week later. Their fault, they fix it or replace it. I don't trust dealers mechanics to put air in tyres pro

May be worth changing again in 1-2k miles as way of a flush.

Looks like chain lube residue to me.

Plus one to that, and to @Andy m 's contribution. It looks to me to be a win/win for you if you take their advice on the fix. If you don't, it might not be so good later.

If it was my bike I would let them get on with it. If they mess it up they will need to re do it at their cost, and deciding not to do it means they may use that against you later (as commented above) I remember both of my NCs were not quiet, but I ride a Himalayan now so it's all relative!

Or as the man said, "the only silly question is the one you didn't ask." Never be afraid to ask a question. Trust me on this......

If it the dealer replaces the tensioner under warranty at no cost to you I would just let them do it.

Just be glad you didn't buy a bike from me . . . I really like wet chains so you will often find a oily black patch under my machines and not just on the frame in front of the front sprocket. One machine I part-exed into a local dealership came back to them after they had sold it with, yes you've guessed it, an oil leak. The mechanic, knowing who had owned the machine previously (me), put the punter right and bollocked me in jest next time I paid them a visit Better safe than sorry

No such thing as a silly question, if we’re not sure, always better to ask👍

Thanks everyone. I feel a bit silly now but I am glad I asked. Love this forum!

It's from your chain.

As long as it doesn't look like an alien blob you'll be fine.

The telescopic magnet and kitchen paper towel are your friend.....😀

Likely using the wrong nomenclature, I mean where you stick a feeler gauge in between the taps on the cylinder head. I've picked up everything from YouTube basically. It was do it myself or pay Honda ever increasingly extortionate servicing prices and often finding out it hadn't been done properly anyway.

You could always restore it. This fellow shows us how, and he does it without fancy tools. The video is worth a watch, even if it isn’t exactly what you had in mind Mr G. https://youtu.be/kNGg0P7B5fI

You can get a “Streetbox” kit, with a remote preload adjuster for an early NC for just over £800 iirc. Obviously it’s less without the remote adjuster. They’re built to order I believe, so you might have a few weeks wait for delivery. There’s a very good review / thread on here from Viator, who fitted the same to his 2021 NC? Well worth a read if you’re thinking about it. On this thread there’s a link to a YouTube review from Chris Moss who recommended the upgrade.

Mine is a manual and sounds exactly the same pulling the clutch in quietens it a little but you don't have that option on the Dct. I very wise and experienced biker/ mechanic ( who very sadly is no longer with us) said the NC sounds like two skeletons making love in a biscuit tin. I find it quite embarrassing when I'm around other bikes and have to start it up because of the rattling engine but Hey! That's the NC.

If you were to postpone and something happened to the bike mechanically it could then get difficult for you perhaps, as you'd refused to have the recommended work carried out. If you have some confidence in the dealers mechanics then it seems sensible to let them do the work, provided it has no cost to you. Be sure to feedback to them immediately if, after the work, the bike is no better.

I've seen a video where the CCT blade/spring housing was cracked. Given the only thing that the dealer has to remove except the valve cover and CCT itself is the radiator, I'd tell them to get on with it if it's free. Andy

I've also replaced by OEM shock with a Hyperpro unit. 99% sure that the 'dots' [casting marks?] on the bottom of the OEM shock were to the left as you look from the back of the bike. Looking in the workshop manual, the picture is small - but looks to confirm this. Hope this helps. I'm very curious about the issues you have with the Hyperpro. I've recently fitted mine and it's 'noisy'. When I bounce the bike there's a slightly gritty/squeaky noise. All the bearings were properly greased on fitting - and I took care to keep everything clean. So my best g

What they said. Looks like chain lube.

Without a doubt it's chain oil. Remove the sprocket cover and give it a good clean.

I don't automatically change brake fluid every two years. I measure the moisture content and use that as a guide. But I don't commute, nor do I ride in adverse weather unless on a trip, so my brake fluid always looks like new at two years. I use the five-year coolant too, when I first change it. I favour not disturbing things at the specified intervals if there is no real need. That said, at the OP's mileage I'd do both. +1 on replacing the oil (but not filter) again after a few hundred miles. Best get rid of the rest of the chocolate pudding.....

Check the safety switches on the clutch lever and the side stand.

When my OEM battery gives out I was going to replace it like-for-like from a reputable supplier so i'll watch responses here with interest. Doubtless others will have better suggestions inc fitting the latest exotic batts (however whilst saving weight are probably more £ and need different charger, they may also present other probs such as cold weather starting). The step change in the Optimate indicator is weird. Trickle charging can mask underlying batt prob ie bike starts on the button when leaving yr garage but 2h and 100mi away bike fails to start at a petrol station. I'd

Err, my experience on five year coolant is mixed. They say UP to five years. I left mine for four years on a wet liner Triumph and rust came out with the coolant ..

Almost immediately the Rebound was not clicking on the shock. Hyperpro's advice was to open the Rebound all the way, ride (carefully) for two miles, then adjust. This worked each time, but only for one adjustment. In the end I was just opening it fully then bouncing the rear up and down to get it to click and only on the increase adjustment. Over about four months the ride began to feel progressively harsh till it was like the suspension had been replaced with a bag of wet sand. The ride has become really harsh. High speed (c.60-70mph)bumps feel like you're losing vertebrae (which

I think mine is quieter than this one !!

To help you fish out dropped items from hard to reach places and then put them safely ready for re-use.

Thank goodness. A valve timing error for whatever reason is serious. Incorrect assembly is the least worrying. The list of other potential causes is long and expensive!. Valve clearances, on the other hand, is a straightforward DIY job on sensible engines like the NC. Take your time doing it, have mercy on the locknuts, and don’t drop anything into hard to reach places or you will be rehearsing all your bad words.

Coolant tomorrow with valve timing, spark plugs and air box.

Don't worry about it. More importantly, has the brake fluid been changed and is the coolant due? Both on 2 year intervals rather than miles and both can ruin your day. Andy

I think I have fixed the bike, at least I hope it's fixed. After much research trawling the internet, sifting out the shit rubbish that is talked on various forums I came to the conclusion that it was the shift motor to blame. I found it strange that an electric motor could be such a pain in the arse and cause the problem but I managed to get one off the bay and fitted it today. Took the bike out and drove 60 miles or so not sparing it any and doing a lot of needless gearshifts to work the motor hard using auto and manual, normal drive and sport 3 (is there any other mode but 3? ) and it perf

NC?- high Revs?😊 ( but I do understand )

Yeah, you haven't lived until you've had a good lungful of London.