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10W30 JASO T903 oil


CFB

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So it seems I can't just walk into a local Honda dealer and get buy it.

They don't stock it, despite it being specified for the NC.

They could order it but I've been told it would probably take a week and they can't order just 1 4ltr

I can get 10W40 but not so sure if that will have an effect on the DCT clutch.

So, where do you buy yours?

Which brand?

Edited by CFB
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Pretty sure Honda say a 10-40 is fine in hot conditions. I use Motul 5-30 and Amsoil 0-40, both bought off the internet. Very expensive, but cheap insurance to my mind.

 

My local Honda dealer wants to sell me 20-50 for the bike and I even got an email direct from the national service manager for Honda NZ saying that 20-50 would be fine. Hmm...

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This is simply a personal preference, but I would in no way suggest it's any better (or worse) than any other oil.

 

For what it's worth, I use Castrol Power1 semi-synthetic. I often (but not always) get oils from http://www.opieoils.co.uk/ because they sometimes stock stuff I can't find elsewhere, and with one club I'm in they offer some discount which can sometimes make it good value. They also have a shop on that auction site, you could look at item 61092120872 for example. I keep 10W30 and 10W40 on the shelf to suit the various bikes I have.

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Guest LaverdaSFC1000

I have always used fully synthetic oil in my bikes + cars and never had a problem.

 

Using a synthetic enables you to extend the change periods, I have always added 50% to the manufacturers recommend times, if you wish.

 

Using any well known brand will not cause a problem, as long as it meets the spec. 

 

 

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Got a branch of Halfords near you? They stock Castrol motorcycle oils. The 'Power 1 Racing' comes in a 10W-30 and is, obviously, jaso.

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Got a branch of Halfords near you? They stock Castrol motorcycle oils. The 'Power 1 Racing' comes in a 10W-30 and is, obviously, jaso.

Tex, my hero! ;)

Popped into Halfords on the way home tonight.

1 can of Power 1 Racing in hand :)

All set for a day in the garage doing the 8k service

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fred_jb

Got a branch of Halfords near you? They stock Castrol motorcycle oils. The 'Power 1 Racing' comes in a 10W-30 and is, obviously, jaso.

I bought 4L of this from Amazon in the summer and put it in my bike before my Barcelona trip.  I didn't touch the drain plug or filters as I have one of those pumps for sucking the oil out via the dipstick hole.   It will shortly be going in for its 8k/1year service and I'm wondering about getting some more and asking them to use my own oil when they do the oil change.  I need to have the dealer service it for my second year warranty.

 

Does anyone have any experience of doing this?  I haven't asked the dealer yet, but it would be useful to know if anyone else has done this.

 

Fred

Edited by fred_jb
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Tex, my hero! ;)

Popped into Halfords on the way home tonight.

1 can of Power 1 Racing in hand :)

All set for a day in the garage doing the 8k service

Excellent, glad to be of help! :)

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Does anyone have any experience of doing this?  I haven't asked the dealer yet, but it would be useful to know if anyone else has done this.

 

Fred

Fred, I always supply my own oils for both car and bike services. Never had so much as a raised eyebrow. It's no skin off the dealer's nose, all they are losing is the 'mark up' on can of oil, that's not going to break them.

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When a friend worked at the Castrol test place in Pangbourne we got a guided tour.The test room where they can put a car in and raise the heat to 50oC -or lower it way down - to simulate climatic conditions world wide -it was interesting but what appealed to us was a CBR 600 racer that did a 5 lap race around Brands -on their oil -and had a laptop measure every rev, gearchange, etc.They then set up the engine and did 200 laps using the same gears,revs  etc.Then stripped the engine and measured everything.

No wear discernible.

It was impressive but hardly representative of a normal ride -when I assume more wear occurs on warm up and short journeys that racing-perhaps Tex can tell us?

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fred_jb

Fred, I always supply my own oils for both car and bike services. Never had so much as a raised eyebrow. It's no skin off the dealer's nose, all they are losing is the 'mark up' on can of oil, that's not going to break them.

Thanks Tex - will give it a go then.

 

Fred

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It was impressive but hardly representative of a normal ride -when I assume more wear occurs on warm up and short journeys that racing-perhaps Tex can tell us?

 

Murray would be your man for that.

 

Generally speaking, I believe you're right. That certainly used to be the case anyway. Modern oils circulate and protect better, even from cold, than those of yore, so it may no longer be quite so true.

 

Racing engines aren't together long enough to really 'wear'. Our bikes do Phillip Island - four, six lap, races + practice + qualifying.- then those that 'survive' will be stripped before going to the TT. But 'classic racing' is slightly different to modern racing anyway. I would expect, say, a Fireblade to do a whole season with no bother. Our bikes have 30 year old designed engines that are now making almost double the power they did when new. Things will, and do, break.

 

I love modern motorcycling (road bikes, I mean). Compared to the greasy fingered, high maintenance, finicky bloody things I started on, modern bikes are brilliant. Jump on, turn the key and go. Repeat as desired. Just like a car. And exactly how it should be. Only the chain lets them down (I know, horse is dead, stop flogging..).

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Murray would be your man for that.

 

Generally speaking, I believe you're right. That certainly used to be the case anyway. Modern oils circulate and protect better, even from cold, than those of yore, so it may no longer be quite so true.

 

Racing engines aren't together long enough to really 'wear'. Our bikes do Phillip Island - four, six lap, races + practice + qualifying.- then those that 'survive' will be stripped before going to the TT. But 'classic racing' is slightly different to modern racing anyway. I would expect, say, a Fireblade to do a whole season with no bother. Our bikes have 30 year old designed engines that are now making almost double the power they did when new. Things will, and do, break.

 

I love modern motorcycling (road bikes, I mean). Compared to the greasy fingered, high maintenance, finicky bloody things I started on, modern bikes are brilliant. Jump on, turn the key and go. Repeat as desired. Just like a car. And exactly how it should be. Only the chain lets them down (I know, horse is dead, stop flogging..).

I agree Tex -they go faster too -and some are even ECONOMICAL!

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Generally speaking, and it is a very broad generalisation, but modern engines don't usually wear out.

 

Back in the day you used to regrind cranks and rebore blocks regularly, and any engine which had done 50k miles would be suspect. Nowadays unless something goes wrong, or if the manufacturer actually got something a bit wrong and there is a recognised weakness for a component to wear or break, you can quite rationally expect an engine to last the life of the vehicle more or less untouched apart from routine servicing. My 15yr old Yaris with its bog standard cooking 1,0L engine has never had anything done apart from oil/coolant changes and one new set of plugs in 85k miles, and it runs like new and uses no oil.

 

All manufacturers do extensive durability tests on test beds and in vehicles. Tests will cover all sorts of circumstances seen in the real world, cold, hot, humid etc. A typical example of a high speed test is 500hrs cycling between max torque/max power/max rpm with oil and coolant temps at the max (130C sump, 110C top hose out for example). Engines should be perfectly serviceable at the end.

 

Many day to day issues do indeed come from repeated low speed short trip running, the school run. Oil doesn't get warm enough to clean out moisture and absorbed fuel from cold starts, carbon builds up on valve seats etc. Some manufacturers have what is termed the "taxi test" where it simulates taxis staring and stopping in ranks as they move along one car length, or sit idling with the heater on for extended periods.

 

Oils are much better than they used to be, fuels are cleaner, materials and surface treatments and finishes are better, manufacturing processes and assembly is much better than it used to be, and the design process can analyse and optimise components, lubrication and cooling in ways formerly not possible before finite element analysis etc. There has also been a major shift in cost analysis, compare a modern engine with variable allsorts to a pushrod iron engine of the 1960's for example. Back then most cars had the cheapest engine possible.

 

Lead in fuel caused a host of problems too, thankfully long gone.

Edited by embee
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Dunnster

Thanks Tex and Embee for interesting and informative reading. :-)

I love this forum and its dwellers.

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