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Guest CBR45

Fuzeblock

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Guest CBR45

I posted on another thread about the Fuzeblock. Someone has posted somewhere that they have fitted one but I can't find the post!

Mystery installer - where did you take the switched live from please??

Thank you!

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Fishmanboy

Think it might have been Gunshot72 who fitted it.... he has fitted everything else so far lol :lol:

Dunno if that info helps to find the post

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Guest gunshot72

Yes it was me. No photos yet though as I haven't finished the install. Switched feed from the black wire on the 5w running light.

Edited by gunshot72

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Guest CBR45

Cheers Russ.

Be grateful if you could tell us where you end up taking the switched live from.

I plan to put mine on top of the air box, under the not the tank lock panel.

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Guest gunshot72

I just said that Paul unless you mean something else? The black wire on the 5w running light is +12vdc when ignition on. This is your trigger for the relay on the FZ1. I've put my FZ1 in the recess normally reserved for the toolbox in the not the tank. If you mean where exactly I tapped into it, then I used a T connector at the wire just as it comes out of the round rubber bulb holder (quite difficult to get to under the clocks) and then ran this wire cable tied to the front frame assembly down the left hand side and round the left of the airbox and into some holes I made on the maintenance lid/battery cover. I used self amalgamating tape to waterproof the T connector.

Edited by gunshot72

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Guest CBR45

Oh yeah! So you have!

The notification I got didn't have that bit in!

That saves me having to scratch my head and think where to take it from. Thanks very much! :thumbsup:

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Guest gunshot72

I'd be interested to know what you've connected to your FZ-1 and what amp/draw they have?

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Guest CBR45

Its not fitted yet.

I havent been able to find what the output of the alternator is on the NCX, would be usefull to know beofre we start loading too much onto it.

The draw for the bike in general should be pretty easy, lights, FI etc.

Edited by CBR45

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Guest gunshot72

The alternator should cope unless you are putting on several heated elements. What are your plans for devices on the FZ-1? I've heard the alternator is 400W, then I've also heard 720W so who knows! As Honda supply a heated grip kit for the NC that runs off a bespoke relay and harness that can also power the 12v socket and satnav, we can assume the NC can handle all three on at the same time.

If you can find the model number on the unit itself it should be easy to find out. I'm only fitting GPS and LED's with a combined draw of less than 3 amps. I've also fitted my Optimate charge lead into a constant terminal at 15 amps but of course that's not drawing power, just supplying a charge the other way.

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Guest CBR45

720W is huge, I cant see the NC having that. 400W sounds reasonable, thats what my G650GS was putting out.

For the GS I worked out that it could run heated grips, heated insoles and satnav no problems, but it was the heated stuff that were the main draw. I looked at fog lights too, but that was an extra 110W draw and was too much, took it wat too close to 400W for comfort.

Grips, insoles and satnav are probably the max I would look to run off the NC as well, maybe a phone charger lead too.

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Guest CBR45

Thats really tidy install! Outstanding in fact!!

Um, I'm no genious when it comes to electrics, but dont you also need to consider the total wattage output? So if you have a 400w alternator and your running lights are putting out 100w, thats 1/4 of what the alternator can power?

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Guest gunshot72

No, 100W is the equivalent light output compared to a halogen lamp, not how much the LED draws. These LED lights are actually only 10W each. It's worth remembering that a stock halogen lamp heats up considerably and this is just wasted energy that the battery supplies and is lost. In fact most of the energy used in a halogen lamp is heat, not light. They're inefficient.

Here's a good calculator if your worried about total load... http://www.electroni...-calculator.php

Another way is to place an ammeter on the positive wires of all your attached devices when running. This will tell you how much draw you are using up and whether this exceeds the alternator performance once you've added them altogether.

Here's a clip of what it does...

Personally I always put my batteries on charge with my Optimate III charger 2-3 times a week using the pigtail you can see in the image above. Doesn't harm it to keep on top of things!

Also, remember that the alternator doesn't run your devices directly, it charges the battery. The battery has charge anyway so if you keep on top of regular charging there's no reason why you can't put high draw devices in the system. If you are off on a long trip though with no charging facilities, be careful!

Edited by gunshot72

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Guest happy

I am very impressed! Are you an electrical engineer or some rocket scientist?

:D

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Guest gunshot72

No, I'm as thick as sh*t, but my brother is an Astro Physicist (BSc, MSc, PHD). That's not a joke!

  • Like 1

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JaseR

Did he tell you that sorting the electrics out wasn't rocket science?....

(I'll get my coat!)

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Guest simon

I've installed a fuzeblock too. Took the live feed from the same location as gunshot, but the FB is behind a panel on the LHS (as you sit on the bike) of the not tank. Looks relatively protected from the elements; time will tell. Next time I connect something up, i'll post some pictures.

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Guest Lockon2
:D what a great item, will save a load of messing about with wires all over the place, just going to order mine now - will have H.grips, jacket ( rarely used in winter ), USB for phone etc, 12V power socket and GPS. It would be rare for no more than two of these items to be on at once, will sit down and work out the total draw when Ihave five mins - Thanks for the heads up on this gaget.

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ncmf

Do you think it would be OK to tap into the running light wire for installation of Oxford heated grips?

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Mike5100

I wouldn't have thought so ncmf. The wiring to the running light is probably designed to take a lot less ampage than the heated grips will need.

If you are using the clever fuseblock thing, then you could tap into the running lights cable to drive the RELAY that switches the power to the heated grips.

Mike

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ncmf

Thanks Mike, thats what I was afraid of. Does anyone know where I could tap into to get another switched feed?

I also have my heated stuff and a 12v socket, but I dont want either of these to be switched, so dont want to buy a Fuzeblock.

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ncmf

I had a look and cant find anything obvious, I am thinking its only a couple of amps, so might be ok on the light wire

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Mike5100

might be - they do tend to play on the safe side so the wire might already be well above what it needs to be

Mike

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Guest Lockon2

Hi

Just to let you know the FuseBlock has switched and unswitched output, so would be just the job. Also if you then want to put anything else on on the future it makes life much easier.

Cheers Grant

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Mike5100

In terms of fog lights you could fit what I just have as they only draw less than 1 amp each and are 100W output. Have a look at my thread here... http://www.nc700.co....ar/page__st__40

Here's my FZ-1 install anyway...

DSCF9759.jpg

Just been trying my Fuzeblock in place Russ, but I can't see how it will fit with wires attached to the terminals on either side - it seems really flush up to the top and bottom of the recess ?

Mike

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