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jpw0809

2016 NC750x Dipped/High beam wire tapping?

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jpw0809

Hi Guys,

 

I have a 2016 with the LED headlight and wanted to fit some LED Aux lights. I need a feed for the dual intensity relay.

 

As it is a sealed LED unit it was difficult to trace the wires to the bulb. From when I looked briefly I could see one plug with I think 5 wires (I think) going into the headlight.

 

Does anyone happen to know the correct wire colours to tap into for the Dipped beam and High beam? 

 

Thank you!

James

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noj

Sorry for no replies fella. Prob because its so new at the moment.

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TheEnglishman

Can you not just put a Volt meter on the cables?

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jpw0809

No worries chaps thought it may have been the case I can't find information on it anyway. I've got a multimeter so will do some testing over the weekend and post back the results.

 

James

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Joeyjoejnr

I tapped into my high beam (non led) headlight. There was a white, green and two blue wires, one with a speck through it. The high beam was the plain blue wire. I used this to install led spot lights. I don't know if your led headlight is different

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epsonix

It is wiring diagram from NC700, but guess very similar if not identical to NC750'16. Take Voltmeter and verify anyway.

NC700_wiring_sch_zpsmopqxwkm.png

I saved PNG enough high resolution, so save it and zoom in your viewer to see more detais (on website view I do not see zoom option)

Edited by epsonix

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jpw0809

Thanks for the info. I found that diagram also and used it as a guide but it seems they have changed it on the 16 model unfortunately.

 

From what I could work out I could only get 12v from two out of 5 of the cables when the dipped beam was on. I believe this was the Black. Also the Black with a white stripe. I tapped my dipped feed from the Black with white stripe. 

 

I turned the High beam on and checked remaining 3 wires including the Blue, Blue and White but got no voltage change. Only thing I saw change was the green wire which went from 0.1v to 0.2v which is nothing at all not enough for my relay to detect input anyway. 

 

I can only guess they are like "signal" wires which go to a module/controller or something built into the LED unit and then that changes the light output inside and the main unit just uses the two 12v input on the other cables for dipped and high. 

 

Back the drawing board for me. I'm waiting for the manufacturers of LED aux lights to suggest where is best to tap for the 16 models.

 

Cheers

James

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epsonix

Green must be ground as on old sch - you just seen 0.1 and 0.2V drop voltage on ground connection due to return current flowing there I'm sure. i would guess that high beam is on blue and blue-white, maybe you didnt make your probe in good contact during checks?doublecheck that. I have experience in modifying things in car(my alfa 159, added xenon, its washing, front pdc, bluetooth+usb) and i use sch from 2005 diesel but mine is 2010 petrol - most of things though stay electrically the same nonetheless of face lifting in 2007- my point is that manufacturers do not change things unless they have to, as this raises design costs and time to market, so unlikely they changed too much in new Rev of nc. i know a lot of gut feelings above,but maybe of some help

Edited by epsonix

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jpw0809

Ah yes thinking about it now it green would have been Ground!

 

So it seems they are in 2 x pairs each side and the green is in the middle. Black & Black/white strip are used for power and dipped. So you would think the Blue & Blue/white would be used for high beam but I thought maybe I wasn't getting a good reading from the probe as the connect is ultra small so I used a safety pin which definitely made contact and I still didn't get a reading but maybe I still didn't get a reading even though I thought i had a good connection.

 

I can't imagine Honda putting two cables not carrying voltage unless they are signal cables but makes total sense what you are saying. I'm going to tap into the Blue/White stripe before the connector that will tell me for sure.

 

Cheers 

James

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arengle

Be careful, the LED lights are connected to a power regulator and not straight to 12 V. I just installed the fog lights on my bike and when I removed the fairing I remember that I saw a similar power regulator near the luggage box, I presume is for the front lights. If you take the power straight from the headlight you risk to burn the power regulators.

 

Adrian

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Mac750

I wired mine up direct from the battery via a fused link and a in line 12 volt switch used for LED lights £2.99 from that auction site. 

The switch sits locked in the Frunk away from kids playing with it when the bike is parked.

This way I can remove the lights if  I wish to without altering any loom or body work. It just means remembering to switch them on and off on each journey.

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Jerome

Hi Simon,

 

I wondered how or if you solved the dipped and main beam feed wires as I'm trying to do the same thing.

 

 

Any advice is much appreciated :)

 

Regards

 

Jerome

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Callisidrin

Further to the Electrical connectivity on the 2016 led model.

I've perused the wiring and have found that Honda (in their wisdom) have decided to make the HighBeam circuit switch on the Ground side only. In other words, 12v positive goes nowhere near the switches.

The driver circuits for the led headlamp unit are in the headlamp and there is one connector to the unit. This connector gets a switched live (post ignition) feed to the driver via fuse 10, an out to the dash (most likely for the HighBeam mimic light), a second switch live feed for the running light, a Ground connection, and a switch line to the High Beam and Passing switch.

From this it looks like the Battery feed and Ground are a permanent feed to the Unit, meaning there is always power (post ignition) at the headlamp so the Dip Beam leds are always on. The Main Beam leds are added to the Dip circuit by the handlebar switches which do this by shorting the switch wire to Ground.

The Running lights (sidelights) are fed from fuse 7 which also feeds the Tail light and Dash illumination. A separate wire from the Driver connector goes to the dash to feed the HighBeam mimic light.

This means that it is NOT possible to take a feed from the High Beam side to feed additional lights that switch in circuit by applying a +12c feed to it. Why Honda did it like this I do not know as the Brake Lights appear to operate by switching the +12v side and not the ground. Definite inconsistency there, maybe yet another cunning plan to get you to buy Honda aftermarket farkles.

I have feeling there must be a work around to this, but it will require a bit of electronic wizardry to do it, mean time if you have the Denali Dual Beam leds or other similar lights, you'll either have to run them at Full Beam all the time or have a separate switch wired to +12v, to put them in circuit.

 

Other information.

The Option B socket is still shown but now ONLY has a Ground and a switched +12v. There is no Headlight, indicator, or permanent live direct from the battery. I did notice though that there is a second feed from the Option Fuse. that goes to a second Option Connector (a three pin socket) which appears to be near the handlebars. The second pin is a Ground connection and the third pin on this goes to the Dash to a circuit marked on the drawings as Grip Heater, Presumably this is for connecting the Honda heated grips.

 

Not much else to add for now. Hope that answers a few questions. I'll work my way round it all again, draw something up and create a new topic with more details. Any questions in the mean time just ask.

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dcordeiro

Amazing description! Waiting anxiously for the final diagram of it all. 

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embee

It's quite common practice in auto electrics/electronics to switch the ground side. It depends on the item, but it allows driver circuits etc to be permanently powered if necessary to avoid start-up lag or spiking etc., it can provide more stable voltages and so on. I'm no expert in this so can't give any more detailed explanation. Positive and negative are only names.

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Callisidrin

Ok as promised I have started a new topic on the wiring of the 2016 models.

The post has an abbreviated wiring diagram limited to the lighting and Option sockets plus a slightly more extended version of what I had already posted here in this topic.

see link to new topic below

 

2016 NC750X Wiring drawing

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