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djsb

Ongoing accident repairs

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djsb

Removed rear tail light in order to fit a new left indicator and inspect any alignment issues or damaged plastic bits. The hardest part was unplugging the connectors.

Edited by djsb

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makman

Nice to see progress made.  I enjoy rebuilt threads as you get to learn alongside the builder.

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djsb

Just spent a few days TRYING to undo a large dome headed screw (17 below) that holds the tail light together.

 

https://www.bike-parts-honda.com/pieces-honda-detail-71541-71541-NC750XDE-2014-F_30-NC+750+X+ABS+DCT.html

 

It wont budge. I've tried an impact driver and my JIS screwdrivers and I I cant take it off.

 

So, it seems like I'm going to have to fit the R&G tail tidy after all. Maybe the nudge from the accident has damaged the plastics or something.

 

Good job I've found this as it would have been impossible to remove at the roadside if I needed to change the bulb (I'm assuming this is the bolt you have to remove).

 

Got to buy another indicator stay bracket (33412-MGS-D30)  and rubber (33413-MGS-D30)unless someone has a spare knocking around they dont need. I cant get to mine as they are stuck in all the plastic gubbins of the tail light.

 

Just found the bracket and rubber from the front left indicator that I've replaced so I can use that. I bought a couple anyway just in case.

 

PS Any recommendations on where to buy the R&G (I'm assuming its part number LP0114BK). They all seem to be around £100 on that auction site.

Edited by djsb

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pauloski

Are you wanting a tail tidy? is your old original unit OK apart from this bolt? i have a tail tidy on my bike that was fitted when i bought it, but i prefer the original look

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Grumpy Meltdown

That screw is an absolute bugger to undo.

Done up by a gorilla air gun at the factory!

Mine was the same.

I finally undid mine by taking the whole assembly off. Undo the 4 Allen screws holding the pillion seat bracket and pull off the rubber holding the tail light connectors.

I got it on the bench so I could see what I was hitting and used a centre punch, on the edge of the screw, and hammer to free it. Even WD40 didn't work.

A good dollop of copper grease on reassembly too.

 

 

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djsb

Thanks Clive. Took your advice and managed to get the large 16.5mm Panhead screw off. Problem is I rounded off one of the allen headed (6x20mm) screws so I'll have to drill that one out carefully. The part number are as follows

 

SCREW, PAN, 6X16.5 *G  90113-MGS-D30 £2.74 inc VAT {this is the one that got stuck).

SCREW, PAN, 6X20 *D  90115-MFL-D20 £2.11 inc VAT (this is the one that I rounded off).

RUBBER, TAILLIGHT MOUNTING 83545-KZZ-900 £2.11 inc VAT (replace anyway).

 

More later.

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Grumpy Meltdown

👍

Those Allen scores are a bugger too. They're right in the firing line of all the grit that comes off the road, which files the head up so the key doesn't go all the way in.

Apart from filling the head with grease, I can't figure a way of stopping it.

You can get plastic caps for Allen screws but there's not a lot of room to get them off.

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djsb

I drilled the head off the allen bolt and have found that the plastic that the large dome screw goes into has fractured. I didn't here anything snap when I tried to get the screw out. I suspect that the plastic screw housing was fractured in the accident hence why it was moving when I was trying to remove the screw. The replacement part (Base Comp, Tailight 33703-MGS-D31) is £90 including VAT. So I will be fitting the R&G after all.

  • Confused 1

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Grumpy Meltdown

£90 for that small piece of plastic!

Plastic welding not an option?

Wouldn't even have to be that neat as it doesn't show.

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kharli

I had same trouble , replaced the allen headed useless bolt with a galv hex head bolt I can get a socket on muhahaha.  The plastic bit had cracked on mine too but it all fixed together ok so leaving it for now . Put an led light in to replace the failed bulb ..seems ok but riders behind me say in bright sunlight the brake light is poor so I might add and exterior set 

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bornagain
On 25/02/2018 at 17:01, CFB said:

👍

Those Allen scores are a bugger too. They're right in the firing line of all the grit that comes off the road, which files the head up so the key doesn't go all the way in.

Apart from filling the head with grease, I can't figure a way of stopping it.

You can get plastic caps for Allen screws but there's not a lot of room to get them off.

 

Apologies, for digging up an old thread - but ...
I've usually got some cheap silicone sealant knocking around. Apply it to a clean fastener head and it can be easily peeled / picked off when required.
Possibly not great for fasteners you need to access on a regular basis.

Regards,

Neil

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djsb

Removed the rear wheel and Exhaust muffler in preparation for removing swing arm and fitting new Wilbers rear monoshock. Found that the rear brake was binding even though new pads and pistons/seals fitted (and brakes bled) a few months ago by a local mechanic. May have to redo the brakes myself if the binding continues.

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djsb

Got the swing arm off. Not really that difficult apart from the over tightened nut and bolt. It was a bit tricky maneuvering it past the parking brake cable and next time I do the job I will remove the parking brake first. Now I've got to degrease everything and do some rust removal and paint touchup next weekend. More later.

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djsb

1/ Did some more degreasing of the swingarm with white spirit and washing detergent (not very environmentally friendly-Sorry). Been putting it off as it's a really dirty job. Figured out that you can just pull the sleeves out for the main bearings but not sure about the linkage bearing. I will find out in Monday when I try to regrease the bearings. Their are a few areas where I need to touch up the paint (including the lower left outside edge of the swingarm which has a line of bare metal where the paint has abraded away-Maybe water spray off the chain) which I will do before putting it back on.

2/ Will remove the remainder of the linkage Monday and TRY to remove the Monoshock WITHOUT having to remove any of the bodywork. Then maybe next weekend clean and regrease that as well.

 

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djsb

Got the linkage off last week and removed the shock this morning.The top fixing bolt had been assembled without any grease and had rusted into the bracket. Had to soak with PlusGas and get my long torque wrench on it. It screamed a bit as I was moving it but finally knocked it out from the other side.

Washed the R&G Shock Sock and the shock itself. No rust on the springs or the shock body but the bottom end of the shock is rusty where it's facing the road. And the lower bearing is a bit stiff.

Found a few areas of the frame that need some derusting and painting. Went over a few rusty bits on the tank with the dremel and a wire brush then put a dab of grease on.

Still not got the final drive sprocket off yet, so just sprayed it with PlusGas again. I'll probably make a contraption from some wood and a few nuts and bolt to get the sprocket off.

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Grumpy Meltdown

Have you not managed to find a puller to fit?

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djsb

Just done some spot priming on the swing arm. Hopefully get a top coat (Hammerite Satin Black) on Thurs and another on Friday.

 

 

IMG_20190102_134653076_small.jpg

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djsb

So, after all that effort to paint the swingarm I gave up on the hand painting with Hammerite (this paint is the consistency of cheese and won't last five minutes on the swingarm).

I have instead got it shot blasted and powder coated at Triple-s in Bingley. Cost £83.35. Results are well worth the cost. Just got to fit the new labels, re grease the bearings and fit new seals (and the chain plastics/gubbins) over the next day or so. Then I will refit it to the bike.

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djsb

Swing arm fitted a couple of weeks ago (with OEM shock for time being) so I could move the bike to my parking spot. Drained the petrol tank this morning in preparation for powder coating later. Got to remove the plastic rear fender next (the long plastic cover above the wheel) so I can get access to the fuel pump cable and fuel hose.

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