Wurth dry chain lubricant - is it worth it?

[Reckless 945]

Link- life or however it was spelt used to be the lube of choice, remove chain, clean, put into link-life tin, heat, until the lube entered the links, remove from tin, refit chain, simples, as they say.

 

[trisaki 2,029]

1 hour ago, Reckless said:

Link- life or however it was spelt used to be the lube of choice, remove chain, clean, put into link-life tin, heat, until the lube entered the links, remove from tin, refit chain, simples, as they say.

 

Can't do with o-ring chains but you  don't have to fit an o-ring chain to an NC you can fit a heavy duty non o-ring 

[Rev Ken 6,324]

2 hours ago, Reckless said:

Link- life or however it was spelt used to be the lube of choice, remove chain, clean, put into link-life tin, heat, until the lube entered the links, remove from tin, refit chain, simples, as they say.

 

Ah the smell of melting graphite grease on top of mum's gas cooker hoping she wouldn't get back until this delicate operation was completed and the kitchen deoderised by opening all the windows. The only time that worked was when I made myself a bacon sarnie after trying to clear the kitchen.

Edited December 1, 2016 by Rev Ken

[Reckless 945]

24 minutes ago, trisaki said:

Can't do with o-ring chains but you  don't have to fit an o-ring chain to an NC you can fit a heavy duty non o-ring 

Back when I used this delightful product o ring chains were years away

[Tex 36,816]

My mum was so disgusted at the odour of Link-Life in the kitchen she bought mr a camping stove and banished the whole operation to the garden shed!

 

It was all that palaver that convinced me to both buy my first BMW and began the deep seated loathing of exposed drive chains that lasts to this day. But, maybe I have never mentioned that?! .  

[Mike5100 2,061]

The Wurth experiment is not looking too promising as you can see from this pic.  I have followed the instructions on the can to the letter - or rather have been doing as soon as the weather got bad - so that's twice round the chain every 3oo miles and a thorough clean every 600 miles.  I have been using the grease ninja to apply the Wurth stuff.

The rust looks bad but I should say there aren't really any signs of seizing links so maybe the lube is getting to the right places.

[Guest machinman]

I wouldn't analyse it too much. Use gear oil/engine oil and wipe off the fling. Chains should be wet, 30,000 miles shouldn't be a problem.

If you want a spotless bike with a chain drive, you can't have a long chain life and vica versa.

[shiggsy 529]

What would be interesting is if you could measure the temperature of the chain after a ride with he Wurth and then do the same with chain oil.   Don't suppose you have an IR Gun do you ?

 

One solution to stopping fling with an auto oiler, is to not have oil drip on to the chain, you just end up with an area of oil than is susceptible to fling.  It is best if it can be wiped on, so there is no 'mass' of oil. The PD Oiler does this and it really does work. I adapted the system and used a small brush, which sits above the chain and the chain can just touch the bristles as it flexes.  Since doing this I have not had any oil drops on the rear wheel.

[Reckless 945]

A Mz type chain guard would be a fantastic addition, are you listening Mr Honda san

my old Mz 250 chain lasted forever (many years, many miles) with absolute minimum maintenance, chain always oily in an oiled clean condition, no fling, clean back end, can't ever remember adjusting chain.

lower power bike I know, but the chain must have been sized accordingly

[Mike5100 2,061]

1 hour ago, shiggsy said:

What would be interesting is if you could measure the temperature of the chain after a ride with he Wurth and then do the same with chain oil.   Don't suppose you have an IR Gun do you ?

 

One solution to stopping fling with an auto oiler, is to not have oil drip on to the chain, you just end up with an area of oil than is susceptible to fling.  It is best if it can be wiped on, so there is no 'mass' of oil. The PD Oiler does this and it really does work. I adapted the system and used a small brush, which sits above the chain and the chain can just touch the bristles as it flexes.  Since doing this I have not had any oil drops on the rear wheel.

As a matter of fact I do have a Ryobi IR thermometer.  Not sure whether it will focus in on such a small spot though.  And anyway, I'm not letting any oil near the chain - until I have to buy a new chain that is, at which point I may well follow your advice on the PD oiler Shiggsy

Mike

[Swissheavy 186]

Mike. You're doing something wrong there, I have been using the Würth stuff since I've started and I've not had the same surface rust as you. Are you spraying the lube on after a run (but a dry day), that I think is key. 

 

My chain is in good condition. 

[Mike5100 2,061]

4 minutes ago, Swissheavy said:

Mike. You're doing something wrong there, I have been using the Würth stuff since I've started and I've not had the same surface rust as you. Are you spraying the lube on after a run (but a dry day), that I think is key. 

 

My chain is in good condition. 

Well I'm not spraying it on after every run Josh.  Just following the instructions and doing it every 300 miles.  If I've been out in the wet these days, then the bike has to be rinsed with a hose to get the salt and dried mud film off.  I can't avoid some water going on the chain but I have a sidekick air blaster so afterwards it goes on the centre stand and gets throughly dried.  But it doesn't then get a coat of Wurth unless it's at the 300 mile point.

(BTW the bike is kept in a pretty damp outdoor garage)

Mike

[Swissheavy 186]

Fair play. Very strange. I'm really pleased with the stuff. It was recommended by the dealer, but I'm worried about it's lubrication properties, being so dry. Tough one to call. My dealer actually said to avoid the Tutoro and Loobman oilers...

 

Admittedly, I'm not out in the rain as often as you. My garage is adjoined to the house so not that damp. 

[Slowboy 20,325]

14 minutes ago, Swissheavy said:

My dealer actually said to avoid the Tutoro and Loobman oilers...

 

That should set his workshop up for more regular C&S work later. Did he give a reason?

I have been using an automatic Tutorro and Scottoil for four years now and got over 23k out of the first chain set through all weathers. Bike is currently close to 30k. Still interested in how the dry lube works out though, it certainly seem to have some potential advantages.

[Guest Hati]

24 minutes ago, Swissheavy said:

My dealer actually said to avoid the Tutoro and Loobman oilers...

 

What a wonderful self interest fuelled piece of misinformation. Next thing you know he will tell you that the kryptonite dispenser in your bike is faulty and it's not covered by warranty.

[ste7ios 469]

This sounds like dealer BS. Every chain drive aplication (industrial etc) out there is using oil with some extreme pressure (EP) additives (it's very close to gear oil).

[Swissheavy 186]

They've got their downsides for sure. Like most things. Good for those who can't guarantee to keep on top of chain lube. 

 

Been doing some google searching this eve on the dry lube. It's wax based unlike oil. This might be why not so good in wet weather as comes off quicker. 

 

I am still not sure what to do really. May just continue with the dry lube until a chain change is required. 

Edited December 4, 2016 by Swissheavy

[Mike5100 2,061]

9 minutes ago, Swissheavy said:

They've got their downsides for sure. Like most things. Good for those who can't guarantee to keep on top of chain lube. 

 

Been doubg sone google searching this eve on the dry lube. It's wax based unlike oil. This might be why not so good in wet weather as comes off quicker. 

 

I am still not sure what to do really. May just continue with the dry lube until a chain change is required. 

yeah that's what I'm doing  Josh.  The OEM chain is garbage anyway so come the Spring it would be at the end of its useful life and I will fit another VXD one which seemed to last better through last winter.  Previous OEM chains all got seized links though from riding salty roads, so I still have a faint hope that the Wurth stuff may prevent that even if it doesn't prevent some surface rust.  (Seems unlikely though)

Mike

[Swissheavy 186]

Yes, my sentiments exactly Mike. I'll be going for the blingy gold chain while I'm at it!!!

[Rev Ken 6,324]

I had a chat a few years ago with a Wurth salesman. Naturally he thought their dry lubricant was excellent saying it clinged better than other lubricants. However he also said that using a less waxy lubricant occasionally wouldn't be a bad idea. He did suggest a Wurth product but I reckon any chain or gear oil would be OK.

[Mike5100 2,061]

8 hours ago, Rev Ken said:

I had a chat a few years ago with a Wurth salesman. Naturally he thought their dry lubricant was excellent saying it clinged better than other lubricants. However he also said that using a less waxy lubricant occasionally wouldn't be a bad idea. He did suggest a Wurth product but I reckon any chain or gear oil would be OK.

Hmmmm.... it's the clinginess (or lack of it) that is worrying me.  There's no doubt it forms a nearly invisible waxy film and when applied it's a very thin liquid and obviously gets into all the corners.  But the appearance of surface rust must IMHO be for one of two reasons.  Firstly the active agent may be too dilute in the carrier solvent so that when the latter is gone, there isn't enough waxy stuff left to cover everything, or secondly, the waxy coating is far too delicate and is washed off too easily in wet weather.

Mike

[Tex 36,816]

Strikes me, Mike, you're being a touch ambitious with the 'instructions on the tin' approach. 300 mile intervals may be fine for a 'fun in the sun' machine/owner (which is most big bikes, I think) but your useage comes under 'harsh operating conditions' and would benefit from increased application.

[Trev 18,533]

I picked up a couple of cans of the Wurth chain lube at he bike show for £8 the pair so will be my 'chain lube of choice' for the next year or so

[Guest Mac750]

I had a number of East German MZ bikes, it's okay I can talk about it now without the twitch. 

They came from the factory with the chain sitting in a fully enclosed chain case (later adopted on the rotary Nortons) 

The chain was lathered in grease of a suspect brew proberbly involving animal waste products.  An inspection hole and rubber bung allowed you to check the chain, but generally if it just about touched the underside of the swing arm you was good to go. 

Old fellas at the club rally's use to say once three roller covers had fallen off it was time to change the chain. (Or about every 50,000 miles.) So I think it is not the lubricant that prolongs chain life, more a case of keeping it clean and dry and lathered in rendered animal lard. 

[Mike5100 2,061]

just to save you trawling back through posts.  My intention is to run this chain into the ground using only the Wurth dry chain lubricant and following only the instructions on the can.  I also decided to use a grease ninja to apply the stuff.

So far the results are very good.  2 minutes to apply once every 300 miles.  No overspray because of the grease ninja.  No sticking links so far.  And the main point of all this, an immaculate back end with no fling whatsoever.

..... BUT ..... the chain is rusting.  In particular on the back side of the plates.  Now that may not be Wurth's fault as the grease ninja puts two streams only on the joins where the O-rings are.

So I have redesigned the grease ninja by drilling a 2.5mm hole in the far saide of the plastic block.  One of the tubes that came in the pack will curve around and fit and I have just tried it and it's exceptional, delivering a load of stuff with nothing coming over or under the chain towards me.  Of course the rust is still there but I may clean that off at the next 'paraffin wash (every 600 miles)

This is what the grease ninja is supplied 

 

This is the mod I have made so I can go round the chain afterwards with this tube fitted: