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Callisidrin

2016 NC750X Wiring Drawing (Lighting & Option)

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Callisidrin

So, 

Following a post nc750x dipped high beam wire tapping which I commented in, I have now been through the Wiring Diagram and re-drawn a simplified version of the Lighting Wiring and Option Sockets for the NC750XD 2016 model. Although this is for the XDCT. I will hazard a guess that the XA, SD and SA models (both Manual and DCT in S and X, (for those that are not familiar with the model codes) will be the same. If not, ask and I can look at the model specific drawings.

 

As I wrote in my reply to the topic. 

The new LED Headlight is not +12v switched. There is a live feed and ground always at the headlight cluster when the ignition is turned on. The electronics in the led driver circuit (which I think is inside the headlight) are such that to switch the High Beam leds on, the switch closes the circuit to ground, (as you can see on the drawing).

Therefore it is not possible to connect auxiliary (positive voltage switched) dual beam fog or running lights to the switch as they require a +12v supply.

If you have dual beam auxiliary lights, you could wire both to the same supply so both beams are always on, or you could wire a separate switch so that the High beam was independently switched. I am looking into a small electronic switch that will allow the ground switch circuit to operate a relay which will then switch the +12v required, but without having an led headlight unit I can't reliably say this will work. If you only have leds with on circuit, you can get an ignition live from several places if you want to use a positap connector to pick up 12v to switch a relay or similar.

 

Good news for those who want to add additional Brake lights. The brake light switches do switch the +12v supply, so it looks like it would be fairly easy to get a feed from the tail light to run those.  

 

Whilst on the back end of the bike, you will still need to check on the number plate / license plate light as this is not yet an led. Like the indicators this light is still the old filament type lightbulb.

 

As mentioned in the previous Topic. There is an Option A connector for your Accessories. According to the drawings, both on the X and S they are under the Seat, on the X it appears to be by the left side seat rail and on the S it's in the middle of the cross rail. You will probably still need to do a bit of poking around to find it, but if this is true and they are under the seat, at least you won't have to remove all the panelling just to find them.

On the down side, there are now ONLY two wires in this 6 pin connector. A ground and a switched live (ignition live). If you need a permanent feed then you'll have to come off of the battery with a fuse as close to the batter as you can get it. There are no indicator or high beam taps like there used to be on the 700's. 

 

Whilst mentioning Option connectors, there is one hidden up by the headstock, (somewhere near the dash on the left) known as the Option B socket. This does have three wires, however one of these goes to the dash. As this is a dedicated socket for the Honda Heated Grips this third wire is a dash tell-tale to show the status of the grips. I suppose if you did;t intend to install the Honda Grips or wanted to use this to power other makes you could use the +12v and ground connections on this, however it look like (on the drawings) it has a dummy connector in it, this may have a resistor or diode inside it and will probably need to remain connected when there are no grips wired in. Bear in mind though, both the Option Socket A & B are fed by the same Option Relay and 7.5A fuse. So depending on what intend to wire up to these connectors, you may need to watch the loading on the circuit. 7.5A @ 12v gives you about 90W of power to play with before the fuse blows.

(Remember the fuse is there to protect the wiring, not you farkles, so uprating the fuse is not really a good move in the long term unless you like cooked cables).

 

I don't think there's much else to add at the moment, If anything comes to mind, I add it here. Otherwise feel free to ask questions.

Honda NC Wiring 2016.pdf

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kakeyed

Very nice, Callisidrin! Thank you so much. Now, I just have to sit down and scratch my head for a week while figuring this out - I'm absolutely terrible with wiring diagrams, but this will make things simpler for my simple mind.

 

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hyperbimduke
6 hours ago, kakeyed said:

As mentioned in the previous Topic. There is an Option A connector for your Accessories. According to the drawings, both on the X and S they are under the Seat

 

Excellent description, i looked for this on my Xag for my heated grip relay but stumbled on how to get panels off correctly, bit of s Chinese puzzle! Any tips please, would be grateful.

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Mike5100

Ref Kakeyed's quote in the above post.  For some strange reason the workshop manual shows the OPtion 6P connector on the left of the bike for the X and the right of the bike for the S when viewed as if you were sitting on the bike.  Also the said connector is  next to or under the not-tank rather than under the seat.  It makes a difference if you take off one set of side panels only to find that the connector is at the other side.

I am assuming that the 'Option A connector' referred to in the first post is what the workshop manual refers to as simply 'OPtion 6P connector'  If not then my apologies and I'd be interested to know where the Option A connector is, as I am planning at some point to connect my driving lights into some kind of switched supply rather than the cig lighter socket where they are at the moment.

Mike 

Sorry about the rotated pic

29458087613_25c55107ab_z.jpg

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hyperbimduke

Thanks for the piccie Mike, did I read the sub-harness is already fitted to the 2016 xag? if not how much does it cost, sounds like we are at tjhe same stage, I have heated grips (r&g) direct to battery, not ideal. I also plan fitting Cree spots to be on all the time with ignition, so I  need key switched power supplies, or could the go onto one?

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Jerome

All I wanted to do was transfer my HID H4 and auxiliary driving/main beams LEDs from my old bike onto a 2016 Integra...- How hard could it be?

 

Callisidrin tells the story. I've just converted back to H4 HID and will add the auxillary LED tomorrow. My HID test ride showed how much better the old H4 beam pattern is compared to the very thin LED one. There's a tight 'question mark' shaped corner nearby and when leaning over with the LED light is as if it's turned off as there's no throw of light around the corner at all. It was very scary the first time it happened.

 

Parts list:

- 2015 H4 headlamp

- 2015 DCT left switch - just for the 3 wire dipped/main beam switch (std only has 2 wires)

- Basic wiring diagrams attached

 

Method:

1. Replaced 2 wire LED main beam switch with the 3 wire one extracted form the 2015DCT switch 

2. Replaced std LED headlight with 2015 H4 one.

3. Added headlamp on/off switch to dashboard below speedo so can start the engine with the headlight off.

4. Wired in std halogen H4 with dipped/main/flash working ok.

5. Changed to HID H4 bulb and zipped tied ballast, relay etc next to ABS pump in left-hand fairing. 

 

I feel much safer and happier :)

 

 

LED V10.pptx

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Jerome

Now added one LED with 2 settings: low on dipped and 100% on main beam.

 

Unfortunately I don't have the original standard LED for comparison

 

1.  Dipped H4 HID on 2015 std H4 light + minimum power on auxiliary LED

 

IMG_5434.jpg

 

2. Main beam on H4 HID + 100% power on auxiliary LED

 

IMG_5435.jpg

Edited by Jerome

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Callisidrin

Nice work !

Like what you've done there, well thought out. 

I take it you replaced the whole headlamp unit, not just the innards. Same with the switchgear I guess. Is the third wire from the switchgear completely missing on the 2016 switchgear ? I'm surprised that Honda would make that adjustment as surely it would be easier for them just to use the original switchgear and loom and just leave the extra wire terminated somewhere, though I guess as the headlamp unit is so different, it was probably just as easy for them to change the loom from the switches to it, but to change the switchgear itself breaks with the idea of universality and minimising of the number parts across the models.

As I don't have a 2016 yet I can only speculate on these matters and not check things out for myself.

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wingrider.steve
On 11/30/2016 at 22:08, Callisidrin said:

As mentioned in the previous Topic. There is an Option A connector for your Accessories. According to the drawings, both on the X and S they are under the Seat, on the X it appears to be by the left side seat rail and on the S it's in the middle of the cross rail. You will probably still need to do a bit of poking around to find it, but if this is true and they are under the seat, at least you won't have to remove all the panelling just to find them.

On the down side, there are now ONLY two wires in this 6 pin connector. A ground and a switched live (ignition live). If you need a permanent feed then you'll have to come off of the battery with a fuse as close to the batter as you can get it. There are no indicator or high beam taps like there used to be on the 700's. 

 

Whilst mentioning Option connectors, there is one hidden up by the headstock, (somewhere near the dash on the left) known as the Option B socket. This does have three wires, however one of these goes to the dash. As this is a dedicated socket for the Honda Heated Grips this third wire is a dash tell-tale to show the status of the grips. I suppose if you did;t intend to install the Honda Grips or wanted to use this to power other makes you could use the +12v and ground connections on this, however it look like (on the drawings) it has a dummy connector in it, this may have a resistor or diode inside it and will probably need to remain connected when there are no grips wired in. Bear in mind though, both the Option Socket A & B are fed by the same Option Relay and 7.5A fuse. So depending on what intend to wire up to these connectors, you may need to watch the loading on the circuit. 7.5A @ 12v gives you about 90W of power to play with before the fuse blows.

(Remember the fuse is there to protect the wiring, not you farkles, so uprating the fuse is not really a good move in the long term unless you like cooked cables).

 

I had my 2016 in bits last week to fit some Honda heated grips.

The 3 wire Option B connector was taped to the main harness on the left side of the front cowl frame approximately inboard of the winged Honda decal on the left side of the front cowl. The dummy connector on it IS just a blanking cap, you can safely remove it if you want to use that connector for other purposes, as you say just using the positive and ground wire and ignoring the signal wire.

I also wanted to wire in a sat-nav cradle & as it uses such a small current I spliced the cables for that into the wires feeding that 3 wire Option B connector just before the connector itself.

I did eventually find the 6 wire Option A connector, i'ts clipped to the underside of the "luggage box" liner and to get to it you have to remove just about every body panel on the left side of the bike!!

 

Edited by wingrider.steve
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Mike5100

Steve - I have the workshop manual and haven't seen any option B connector described.  Did you have to take any panels off to get at it?

Mike

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wingrider.steve
20 minutes ago, Mike5100 said:

Steve - I have the workshop manual and haven't seen any option B connector described.  Did you have to take any panels off to get at it?

Mike

It's shown on the wiring diagram in my Honda workshop manual, as "Option 3p". I was referring to it as "B" as that was what the previous post referred to it as.

You have to remove the painted trim piece above the left hand fairing side (Honda call it the "Side Panel"), then the left fairing side itself which Honda call the "Front Side Cowl/Middle Cowl"

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Jerome

Hi Callisidrin,

 

Thank you. It took a whole lot longer than I thought it would but wow what a difference.

 

Yes, the whole headlamp :( and yes, 3rd wire is missing. I'd hoped to solder it on ....

 

I think I may have the wrong one as the beam adjusters are completely inaccessible and face backwards. The manual says use a vertical screwdriver near the left fork left for the bottom right one. I've bodged it with 2 washers at the top holes to lean it down a bit. I may get the right parts eventually, but just enjoying seeing where I'm going for the moment.

 

The high placement of the LED (in the bottom third of the fairing above the headlight) works wonders filtering through traffic, as it is above the boot line of cars.

 

I could wire in the high beam idiot light though it's obvious when it's on now. 

 

Jerome 

 

IMG_5442.jpg

 

 

Edited by Jerome
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Jerome

Hi Mike,

 

Which year and bike do you have the manual for? My dealer said they're not available anymore as they're only online.

 

Jerome 

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Mike5100
23 minutes ago, Jerome said:

Hi Mike,

 

Which year and bike do you have the manual for? My dealer said they're not available anymore as they're only online.

 

Jerome 

my dealer got one for my 2016 X it cost me £37

Mike

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Jerome

Hi Mike,

 

Thank you. I'll ask again!

 

Jerome

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Mike5100

It was 2 or 3 months ago though Jerome

Mike

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wingrider.steve

Just checked the part number of my manual and it's showing as available from my parts supplier PFK Lings.

Part number:- 62MKA00 (it covers the 2016 750X and S models inc DCT)

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Callisidrin

Second that. 62MKA00 covers the 2016 NC750X/XA/XD/S/SA/SD models.

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Mike5100
On 12/12/2016 at 19:29, wingrider.steve said:

 

I had my 2016 in bits last week to fit some Honda heated grips.

The 3 wire Option B connector was taped to the main harness on the left side of the front cowl frame approximately inboard of the winged Honda decal on the left side of the front cowl. The dummy connector on it IS just a blanking cap, you can safely remove it if you want to use that connector for other purposes, as you say just using the positive and ground wire and ignoring the signal wire.

I also wanted to wire in a sat-nav cradle & as it uses such a small current I spliced the cables for that into the wires feeding that 3 wire Option B connector just before the connector itself.

I did eventually find the 6 wire Option A connector, i'ts clipped to the underside of the "luggage box" liner and to get to it you have to remove just about every body panel on the left side of the bike!!

 

Steve - After about an hour I have got the left side panel off and I really don't fancy going any deeper.  But I can't see a taped connector with only 3 wires going into it.  I'm guessing it's not this one as there looks like about 6 wires going in and the black box thing looks like it's important rather than just a cap but it is 'clipped' to the luggage box, albeit to the side rather than underneath - could it be the option A connector? (forget it I have just realised that it's the flasher relay).  They fitted the honda heated grips for me so might they have used the optionB connector?  Is the option B connector only providing 12v while the ignition is on, and does it have its own fuse somewhere?

Mike

31212053954_86e6d55056_z.jpg

Edited by Mike5100

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Mike5100

If I feel brave and take the rest of the panels off to locate the option A connector - does anyone know whether it has its own fuse and if so what size.  The workshop manual has nothing on the fuses other than a cryptic box on the wiring diagram with no key to the abbreviations.  If it is 'OP' then its 7.5 amps, but if that's for the option A connector where's the fuse for the heated grips?

Mike

PS The Honda dealer wanted £100 to connect my driving lights up to this connector - now I've seen what's involved I don;t blame them.

Edited by Mike5100

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wingrider.steve
8 minutes ago, Mike5100 said:

Steve - After about an hour I have got the left side panel off and I really don't fancy going any deeper.  But I can't see a taped connector with only 3 wires going into it.  I'm guessing it's not this one as there looks like about 6 wires going in and the black box thing looks like it's important rather than just a cap but it is 'clipped' to the luggage box, albeit to the side rather than underneath - could it be the option A connector? (forget it I have just realised that it's the flasher relay).  They fitted the honda heated grips for me so might they have used the optionB connector?  Is the option B connector only providing 12v while the ignition is on, and does it have its own fuse somewhere?

Mike

31212053954_86e6d55056_z.jpg

 

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wingrider.steve

The three pin connector on mine was taped to the wiring harness where it runs along the left side of the fairing subframe.

It is only live when the ignition is on and it is fed from its own fuse and relay in the fuse box. These are not fitted as standard, you have to fit hem yourself.

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Mike5100

Steve - I got all excited thinking I was going to get an answer really quickly and get back into the garage .... but there's nothing come through other than you quoting my post :D

Mike

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wingrider.steve
4 minutes ago, Mike5100 said:

If I feel brave and take the rest of the panels off to locate the option A connector - does anyone know whether it has its own fuse and if so what size.  The workshop manual has nothing on the fuses other than a cryptic box on the wiring diagram with no key to the abbreviations.  If it is 'OP' then its 7.5 amps, but if that's for the option A connector where's the fuse for the heated grips?

Mike

The 6 pin connector is clipped to the bottom of the luggage box liner and is a pig to get at.

It is fed from the same OP fuse and relay as the 3 pin connector.

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wingrider.steve
2 minutes ago, Mike5100 said:

Steve - I got all excited thinking I was going to get an answer really quickly and get back into the garage .... but there's nothing come through other than you quoting my post :D

Mike

Yeah sorry, my fault!

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