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Callisidrin

2016 NC750X Wiring Drawing (Lighting & Option)

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wingrider.steve

I'll have the bike in bits tomorrow or Wednesday to fit a new throttle cable so if you want I can take a pic of the 3 pin connector.

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Mike5100
30 minutes ago, wingrider.steve said:

I'll have the bike in bits tomorrow or Wednesday to fit a new throttle cable so if you want I can take a pic of the 3 pin connector.

I think I have just found it and there's now cabling running away from the other side of it, so presumably they have used it to fit the heated grips.

Mike

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Callisidrin
1 hour ago, Mike5100 said:

If I feel brave and take the rest of the panels off to locate the option A connector - does anyone know whether it has its own fuse and if so what size.  The workshop manual has nothing on the fuses other than a cryptic box on the wiring diagram with no key to the abbreviations.  If it is 'OP' then its 7.5 amps, but if that's for the option A connector where's the fuse for the heated grips?

Mike

PS The Honda dealer wanted £100 to connect my driving lights up to this connector - now I've seen what's involved I don;t blame them.

 

I think this is answered in the subsequent posts. Just to confirm though, Both of the Option connectors share the same fuse fed from the Option Relay. If you look at the diagram I included at the bottom of the Original Post, you'll see on the bottom right, both connectors are fed from the same fuse which is fed by the same relay. The relay is activated by the ignition.

Basically meaning that once the Option Fuse and Relay kit have been installed, you can use either or both Option connectors. Just remember that the one at the front of the bike (which has 3 wires) is for the Heated Grips, so only use the +12v and Ground wire unless you are installing the Honda Grips. Because the connectors share the 7.5A fuse, that is the load limit of both connectors (this equates to around 90 watts). The fuse does not protect the kit you are installing, it protects those cables in the loom that feed the circuit, the cables can probably tolerate a higher current but probably for only short periods as prolonged higher current loads will overload the cable and eventually cause it to break down. Best to stick to the loadings specified.

 

The Option 6P connector is usually found on behind the side panels towards the seat end of the false tank. It is usually plugged into a receptacle moulded to the outer side of the inner false tank somewhere on a line vertically upwards from the left foot peg or just in front. It will be a 6-pole plug with only two wires going to it one of the wires should be violet/red in colour. This is on the X, on the S I believe the connector is on the Right hand side in about the same place. The Option 3P connector (for the grips) is somewhere up near the headstock.

Edited by Callisidrin

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Mike5100

OMG - I gave up.  I got all the front panelling off without breaking anything, then by looking upwards with a torch I could see the option 6P connector (I think).  But it was so close and yet so far :D.  I would have had to take off the rear rack, the riders seat, the blue rear panel (it goes right round as well), and the nearside black rear panel.  I would have then had to hope that the plug I have bought would fit, trust my ability to crimp and assemble it, find some suitable wire, and connect in the driving lights.  Then about 2 hours of reassembly of side panels.

I balanced this up with two rather dubious plus points of my current arrangement.  The lights are protected by their own 2 or 3 amp fuse.  And if my battery is flattish one day, at least the driving lights won't be drawing extra current whilst I am trying to start it.  The irony is of course that the most likely reason the battery would be flat is because I had left the driving lights plugged in to the cig-lighter socket. :D

I have a spare Fuzeblock somewhere (probably at my caravan) and since they cost a staggering £79 now, I think I will save that as a project and do a proper job with it for my driving lights, external thermometer, heated gear, satnav, and optimiser connections, as well as providing a switched and an unswitched cig lighter socket.

Mike

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SteveThackery

Just wanted to say "thanks" to Callisidrin for going to the trouble of producing the wiring diagram for the lighting.

 

I spent twenty minutes going through the diagrams in the Shop Manual this afternoon, and yours is much better!

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yakupakkaya

Hi guys,

I've been carefully reading everything about this topic and eager to install my after market heated grips by myself, using the 3P accessories switch at the front.

So I investigated according what I did read and found something looks like.. could you please check the link below and let me know whether it is or not? 

Pictures of what I found

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Chris Weir

I am in the process of adding auxiliary components and was lost when I realised that the wiring diagrams were missing from the manual. Lo and behold, you have saved the day. Great drawing Thank you. Chris.

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Eddie Bell
On 12/1/2016 at 00:08, Callisidrin said:

So, 

Following a post nc750x dipped high beam wire tapping which I commented in, I have now been through the Wiring Diagram and re-drawn a simplified version of the Lighting Wiring and Option Sockets for the NC750XD 2016 model. Although this is for the XDCT. I will hazard a guess that the XA, SD and SA models (both Manual and DCT in S and X, (for those that are not familiar with the model codes) will be the same. If not, ask and I can look at the model specific drawings.

 

As I wrote in my reply to the topic. 

The new LED Headlight is not +12v switched. There is a live feed and ground always at the headlight cluster when the ignition is turned on. The electronics in the led driver circuit (which I think is inside the headlight) are such that to switch the High Beam leds on, the switch closes the circuit to ground, (as you can see on the drawing).

Therefore it is not possible to connect auxiliary (positive voltage switched) dual beam fog or running lights to the switch as they require a +12v supply.

If you have dual beam auxiliary lights, you could wire both to the same supply so both beams are always on, or you could wire a separate switch so that the High beam was independently switched. I am looking into a small electronic switch that will allow the ground switch circuit to operate a relay which will then switch the +12v required, but without having an led headlight unit I can't reliably say this will work. If you only have leds with on circuit, you can get an ignition live from several places if you want to use a positap connector to pick up 12v to switch a relay or similar.

 

Good news for those who want to add additional Brake lights. The brake light switches do switch the +12v supply, so it looks like it would be fairly easy to get a feed from the tail light to run those.  

 

Whilst on the back end of the bike, you will still need to check on the number plate / license plate light as this is not yet an led. Like the indicators this light is still the old filament type lightbulb.

 

As mentioned in the previous Topic. There is an Option A connector for your Accessories. According to the drawings, both on the X and S they are under the Seat, on the X it appears to be by the left side seat rail and on the S it's in the middle of the cross rail. You will probably still need to do a bit of poking around to find it, but if this is true and they are under the seat, at least you won't have to remove all the panelling just to find them.

On the down side, there are now ONLY two wires in this 6 pin connector. A ground and a switched live (ignition live). If you need a permanent feed then you'll have to come off of the battery with a fuse as close to the batter as you can get it. There are no indicator or high beam taps like there used to be on the 700's. 

 

Whilst mentioning Option connectors, there is one hidden up by the headstock, (somewhere near the dash on the left) known as the Option B socket. This does have three wires, however one of these goes to the dash. As this is a dedicated socket for the Honda Heated Grips this third wire is a dash tell-tale to show the status of the grips. I suppose if you did;t intend to install the Honda Grips or wanted to use this to power other makes you could use the +12v and ground connections on this, however it look like (on the drawings) it has a dummy connector in it, this may have a resistor or diode inside it and will probably need to remain connected when there are no grips wired in. Bear in mind though, both the Option Socket A & B are fed by the same Option Relay and 7.5A fuse. So depending on what intend to wire up to these connectors, you may need to watch the loading on the circuit. 7.5A @ 12v gives you about 90W of power to play with before the fuse blows.

(Remember the fuse is there to protect the wiring, not you farkles, so uprating the fuse is not really a good move in the long term unless you like cooked cables).

 

I don't think there's much else to add at the moment, If anything comes to mind, I add it here. Otherwise feel free to ask questions.

Honda NC Wiring 2016.pdf

 

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