Recommend me a C&S kit

[Mikdent 4,070]

9k+ miles and the time has come to replace the OEM Chain and Sprockets.

 

Ive been searching the net and seem to be getting conflicting sizes for my specific bike, I don't keep my bike at home so I can't just pop out to the garage and count the teeth and chain links.

 

Can someone give me a definitive answer on what I need for a 2014 750 X DCT please? 

 

16 or 17 on the front sprocket? 39 or 43 on the rear? 112 chain links? I just can't be sure.  

 

Or better still, recommend me a good C&S kit, my bikes a keeper so I don't mind spending a few £££s on good kit.

 

Oh, and I'd like the rear sprocket to be black. 

 

Muchos grassyarse.  

[Tex 36,817]

Like your style Jerry. Too many folks ask for a 'good, cheap chain'.

 

[Mikdent 4,070]

I've had times when I'd ask for a cheap this or that Tex, and I'm sure I'll have times like that again, but for now brickies rates ain't too shabby and as I said I don't foresee me parting with my X so it's a no brainer.  

 

I just want to order good quality and the correct sizes etc. 

[outrunner 4,457]

Just go to your local Honda dealer, open your wallet and say................help yourself. 

 

 

 

Andy.

[trisaki 2,029]

B&c express  tsubaki 520  112  link 17 t  and 39 t   talk to them on what qutility chain you want / good folk to deal with 

[Mikdent 4,070]

1 hour ago, outrunner said:

Just go to your local Honda dealer, open your wallet and say................help yourself. 

 

 

 

Andy.

 

I said I didn't mind spending on good kit, not that I'm stupid with pots of money. 

 

Ill be doing the fitting, well, me and my mate.  

[Mikdent 4,070]

1 hour ago, trisaki said:

B&c express  tsubaki 520  112  link 17 t  and 39 t   talk to them on what qutility chain you want / good folk to deal with 

 

Thats just the confirmation I was looking for, from an NC owning bike mekanik too, thanks Mark.  

[Mikdent 4,070]

Sorted. 

 

 

[rjp996 1,091]

I buy DIiD 520vx2/112 link endless chains - often listed as KTM Duke 125 chains..... seller 'uk-powerparts' - £58.60 for then 'gold' version bst price I have seen and usd this seller before. 

JTF1373.17 front sprocket -£19

JTR1303-39 rear sprocket - £24

 

very good chain - sprockets good too, last 18k on my chain and sprockets look very little worn, same as the prev honda ones at same miles. 

[outrunner 4,457]

A handy site to keep in mind.

 

 

Andy.

[Grumpy old man 4,673]

Noticed it is a open chain with a spring link  is that ok spring link seems to be frowned upon now days. 

[Mikdent 4,070]

I went on the advice of my good mate who knows far more than me about bikes, he's of the opinion that they are making a 'comeback' due to modern technology, machining, materials etc. 

 

 

[kayz1 2,928]

Plus at 50BHP i don't think it matters a lot...All the old bikes had open link, some with more HP that of the NC range.

I never remember a link dropping off any of my bikes, and  ( in the old days  when i were a lad ) i used

have the chain off every other weekend to boil it..#

Lyn.

[Defender 3,837]

That's good information to have, thank you guys.

I'm at the point where I need to change mine too, it has almost got to the end of the adjustment slot, or I'll be needing a longer swinging arm! But after 14000+ miles not surprising?

My brother is over visiting this coming weekend so he can give me a hand with it👬.

Quick question regarding the front sprocket change on a DCT, how do you stop the output shaft from turning as you can't put it in gear like a manual?

My first thought is a piece of stout wood through the back wheel against the swinging arm to loosen the nut off, but that might not be the best way?

 

 

[Mikdent 4,070]

I'm only guessing here but how about loosening it off first, before taking the rear wheel out, and put the handbrake on? 

[Defender 3,837]

Good one Mate😊, hadn't thought of that, I have a battery powered rattle gun that should 'shock' the nut enough to get it started.

When are you planning to change yours?

Edited May 14, 2017 by Defender
Correct auto correct spelling!

[kayz1 2,928]

Good big screw driver through the rear chain/sprocket first to get the nut cracked and off you go as the rear is being changed as well..

I would not use the swing arm as it being thin steel sheet you may put a ding in it your eye will always find.

Helps if you only have a side stand to have a mate sat on the bike with the rear brake on as well...

every little helps.

Edited May 14, 2017 by kayz1

[Mikdent 4,070]

18 minutes ago, Defender said:

Good one Mate😊, hadn't thought of that, I have a battery powered rattle gun that should 'shock' the nut enough to get it started.

When are you planning to change yours?

 

This Saturday if they arrive in time. 

[Defender 3,837]

Thanks again guys, I have a centre stand, makes removing the rear wheel much easier, but with two of us doing it, it should be easier than alone?

Standing on the rear brake would be more effective than the parking brake as that's only cable operated, the main rear brake is hydraulic and clamps a bigger area of the disc.

Good point about the swinging arm, but a wide piece of wood should spread the load and deform first as it's a softer material, unless it's mahogany or other very hard wood.

[Defender 3,837]

11 minutes ago, Mikdent said:

 

This Saturday if they arrive in time. 

Me too probably, they should be able to get them to by then surely?

[Slowboy 20,395]

10 hours ago, Defender said:

Quick question regarding the front sprocket change on a DCT, how do you stop the output shaft from turning as you can't put it in gear like a manual?

My first thought is a piece of stout wood through the back wheel against the swinging arm to loosen the nut off, but that might not be the best way?

Remove the rear wheel and then refit the rear axle putting it back through the chain.

Set the top run of the chain tight (ish) and the bottom will be slack, use a zip tie near the axle to tie the bottom run to the top, then either insert an old screwdriver or better still a couple of 5/6mm screws with washers and nuts through the top and bottom runs to lock the chain.

Undo the nut, tapping (note tapping not belting) the socket with a light hammer blow. The chain will lock the shaft so it will come undone.

On my Triumph I had to use an air impact driver as the nut was on so tight. The Honda nut is not so tight from memory. You should use a torque wrench when you tighten it back up though, just get a mate to stand on the back brake with the bike on the ground to lock the wheel.

There are some good YouTube videos showing the removal technique.

Brian

Edited May 15, 2017 by slowboy

[embee 7,288]

It doesn't take much to undo the NC gearbox sprocket bolt (it's a bolt, not a nut like many other bikes). Back brake will probably do it, otherwise the wood through the wheel will be fine as long as it sits neatly on the swingarm (use cloths etc to protect paint).

 

From the workshop manual -

gearbox sprocket bolt torque 54Nm

Rear wheel sprocket nut torque 108Nm

Wheel spindle nut 98Nm

 

Note that the gearbox sprocket is a floating design, the bolt and big washer do not clamp the sprocket, the drive is entirely taken by the splines. I like to apply some high moly paste (Honda Moly60) to the splines.

Edited May 15, 2017 by embee

[Defender 3,837]

Thank you Brain and Murray, both very helpful and two different methods of locking for removal, have an alternative is always good😁.

[bazza 3,629]

i got my new gold one and sprockets off fleabay with a 15K guarantee.no problems so far but much as i would like to give you more the paperwork is at the MOT place!

baz

[Mikdent 4,070]

2 hours ago, Defender said:

Thank you Brain and Murray, both very helpful and two different methods of locking for removal,

 

^^^^what he said^^^^