Service advice....

[Eric F 8]

Now I've gone through the history of my bike I'm wondering if it needs any attention....pdi  on 5.4.14 at 6 mile,  1st service 7.6.14 at 645m. 2nd service includes.  Speedo change and starter relay recalls on 31..5.16,at 2583miles and nil miles on odo. I purchased with mot 24.4.16  at 597shown/3181 actual miles. It's now got 1206 /3789 actual   miles.

Service charts don't show a coolant or brake fluid change and it's just about 12 month since oil and filter change, although only covered 1200 miles in that time.

I am quite capable of oil and filter change and possibly coolant but brake fluid...no way. Is it worth completing these items either partly or whole with trained engineers and getting book stamped?

Advice is appreciated thanks

 

Edited May 15, 2017 by Eric F

[rjp996 1,091]

If you are happy to do the coolant, you will find a brake fluid change simple. 

When I change brake fluid, I don't drain out all the fluid and refill, but simply open up the bleed valve (with a tube on it)', pump the break and expel the brake fluid, until the reservoir is low but not empty, fill it back up with new fluid and repeat a few times until all the old fluid has been pushed through. 

Its quick and saves bleeding the brakes after. 

 

Edited May 15, 2017 by rjp996

[Dave H 2,022]

When the R1150 series came out there was a difficulty bleeding the ABS system and they recommended using a mittyvac which is a vacuum pump that pulls the fluid through the system via the bleed nipple.  I found this method so much easier that I've never used anything else since.

[Guest Mac750]

Brake bleeding isn't as bad as it sounds on modern bikes, as the bleed nipple comes undone without it sheering off which can beat real pain on older bikes. Even with the ABS you can bleed them at home with patients.  Or if you have  a little compressor you can buy a bleed kit from Halfrauds that will suck the fluid out at the calliper bleed screw. All you need to do is keep it topped up as it sucks from the bleed screw via a small hose into a jar.  Then when all the air is out and you have all new fluid you nip up the bleed nipple and remove the tube and pop the Res cap back on. 

Two notes of caution.

Make sure any plastic body work is covered up with cloths. Brake fluid will eat not only the paint, but it will chomp happily on the plastic as well. (Ex PC 800 owner do the ask how I know. )

 

The other thing is if you have pushed back the pads and pistons for any reason, like changed the pads at the same time , make sure you pump the brakes to make sure you have sufficient pedal / lever, this pushes the pistons back out in readiness for when you use the brakes. Make sure if you pump the brakes with the Res cap off that it doesn't plop a drop of brake fluid on your bikes bodywork. Do it gently or with the cap put back on. 

[Eric F 8]

cheers guys, with the relatively low milage do you think its necessacary to do the work? 

 

[Andy m 23,473]

Brake fluid reacts with water so wants changing at the 2-3 years sort of mark.

 

Andy

[steelhorseuk 1,690]

Hi Eric,

I changed my brake fluid after four years which was two years later than the service manual suggests.

The dealer did it for me for 30 minutes labour and they threw in the DOT4. (same price as buying a bleed kit)

If I am honest, I did not really notice any major difference except the colour, but it was a stamp in the book and as the bike has been a keeper, worth doing.

-Mark-

 

Edited May 16, 2017 by Smudger
extra information

[ste7ios 469]

Probably you'll never notice it unless the moment you'll really need it, when things get really hot in the brake calipers...

 

Sporty riding, a good downhill, emergency braking can bring to the surface any problems related to the contamination of the brake fluid.

 

it's a better safe than sorry case...

 

(Mittyvac is great help!)

[Andy m 23,473]

Water in the fluid turns to steam. Steam is compressible so the lever comes back to the bars and your dry cleaning bill is the least of your worries.

 

I've seen in twice in 25 years. The usual issue is that it fails to lubricate the ABS modulator, O-rings rip, the red light comes on and the bill is higher than the dry cleaning one.

 

Andy

[embee 7,288]

Yes, I think general fluid deterioration and potential corrosion are the most likely bad effects. Unless you're into serious downhill riding or trackdays I doubt you'll ever get the fluid/calipers hot enough to ever get boiling on the road.

 

I usually change fluid every couple of years typically ,sometimes more often if I've got the bleeding kit out and feel enthusiastic. With a mityvac kit it takes 10 or 15mins to do each end of a bike, dead easy.

[commuter 262]

On 5/16/2017 at 14:59, Andy m said:

Brake fluid reacts with water so wants changing at the 2-3 years sort of mark.

 

Andy

Unless you go to the trouble of changing the brake fluid for silicon which doesn't strip paint and is not hygroscopic so it doesn't absorb water and doesn't rot your brake system seals. Ever heard of "always use brake fluid from a new sealed container?" with silicon fluid, it doesn,t matter so I buy fluid by the half litre and use it as required. So far, I have used it in a Triumph Stag brakes and clutch, Morris minor brakes , Guzzi T3, Hyosung GT250, Yamaha SR500,Morini sei500, BMW R1100 ABS, Mini brakes and clutch,Triumph mk1speed triple brakes and clutch. Yamaha FZ6 brakes. No problems whatsoever after cleaning out the old crap and refilling with silicon. It really is good stuff. All you need to do with the brakes after filling with silicon is to buy new pads every autumn so that the brake pistons can spend their winter  tucked well inside the calipers away from all that nasty salt and grit.

[Andy m 23,473]

I've been a brake test and systems engineer for 25 years. Silicone fluid in systems designed for non-silicone is pot luck. If they used compatible seals it'll be fine, if not it won't. We don't know. The fresh container advice is also about dust, they build ABS modulators in clean room conditions as some of the passages are very small. Its as big a black hole as any oil debate. The safe answer is to do what the manual says.

 

Andy

[embee 7,288]

One downside of DOT5 silicone fluids that I've heard but have no experience of is the very fact that they don't absorb moisture. This means that any moisture which does get into the system will stay as separated water and can cause corrosion and in extreme cases either freezing or boiling.

The systems were designed for DOT4 type fluids, a bit risky to go to something completely different to what is recommended in my view (compatibility as Andy says, he knows about brakes). Plenty of cautionary info, just plucked from Google is http://www.britcycle.com/Manuals/DOT5.htm