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Another chain tension question!


alhendo1

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Andy m

The failure in the picture was IIRC a newish R1200 in the US that was up to date on its dealer stamps and became the subject of a legal case. BMW I believe settled out of court but included a gagging clause so the exact cause was never published. The usual suspect is lack of lubrication in the undersized splines.

 

I've seen a failure, the splines area is much smaller than the sprockets on a chain drive 80+HP bike and the metal is poor.  If they designed it properly the sales book weight or price would be laughed at by MCN. Getting in there is major surgery, used to take a morning on my K100, every 2 years. The fluid in the bevel box is another 10 minutes every 4000 miles and more expensive than chain lube. 

 

There again, BMW fitted a chain DID specify for a 25HP twin to a 48HP single, so possibly not the best example. F650 chains run slack (BMW showrooms and service run them tight and dry to try and sell to people who want shaft, just not a 3/4 ton behemoth) last about 12000 miles.

 

Andy

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Guest DelBoy

HI Chaps,

 

My original chain lasted 10 minutes and I am known for looking after chains as I hate having to change them, regular lube and a clean every 3rd time.

 

I fitted a bigger chain (525 instead of a 520) with new sprockets and a Turoro oiler.

I have now done 10k and apart from an initial adjustment the chain has not needed adjusting and there are no tight spots.

 

Cheers


Del

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Guest Mac750

You would think BMW could make a shaft drive by now. Sadly the K 100,1100 ,750 series needed to be hoist in the air and it's shaft splines greased every tyre change or you could lose drive as the splines wore away. Some go on forever no doubt worn right out but still functioning, others didn't. The picture of the BMW alternative vape pipe is a common occurrence sadly. A friend and his wife got dumped on the Motorway same scenario as the picture posted. 

As said before Honda make an excellent  simple shaft drive fitted in all sorts from the Bros to the VT 1100.  All my PC 800s got sold with high miles on them and all are still going strong. Greasing the splines is half an hour's job every two years or so and changing the bevel drive oil 19 minuets once a year.  Never known one fail if maintained.

Chains are just a means of lashing an engine to the drive wheel and not very elegantly ether if I my say so. Still think the NC should have been shaft driven.

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Guest Kooglesac

I bought a 2014 x and after a short period of time I noticed the chain was slack so I tightened it. I also noticed that I was able to lift it off the back sprocket more than I was comfortable with. So to cut a long story short I was going to replace the chain myself but took it to a mechanic I know and he confirmed that the chain was goosed. He said that the chain shouldn't be like that for all the miles that was on the bike. He also said to take it back to the dealer as they shouldn't have let it out of the shop like that. So the Honda dealer had a look at it and replaced it for me. No charge. So if one dealer can do this why not another!! 

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Had a chain snap with only 3k on it. Lubed, adjusted and cleaned. Replaced under warranty with no quibbles and really excellent service. They have me an even better chain than the one I put on there. This was on my CBF500.

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alhendo1

Well.....took the bike down to the dealers and they've videoed it and took there measurements so it's now a case of waiting to see what they say to this "technical enquiry."

I still felt the chain was too tight so I've slackened it off a bit and will take it out for a run at the earliest opportunity to see if that makes a difference  (it's chucking it down here!)

I will report back as soon as I have any info.

 

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alhendo1

Well.....took the bike down to the dealers and they've videoed it and took there measurements so it's now a case of waiting to see what they say to this "technical enquiry."

I still felt the chain was too tight so I've slackened it off a bit and will take it out for a run at the earliest opportunity to see if that makes a difference  (it's chucking it down here!)

I will report back as soon as I have any info.

 

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Guest DelBoy

Clearly the chain supplied as standard is rubbish, as are the tyres, as are some other features..

 

The bike generally is built to cost, you get what you pay for.

 

Generally I think the NC is ok. I bought one as a commuter (85 miles per day, 18000 to date since Oct 2014) to replace my dead 600 Fazer.

And would never consider using my Triumph speed triple now my Ducati Diavel to commute into town

 

So as a replacement I was torn between the NC and the MT07 Yamaha.

 

I chose the NC as, although the Yamaha was initially cheaper, the NC would be better value when fuel consumption and servicing were considered.

I also liked the false tank storage and wind protection of the NC.

 

With hindesite I do think that I would have preferred the Yamaha ( much more exciting and fun to ride), that said the NC does the job very well

and has a certain way of stopping me from riding like a knob. I have come to like the way the bile likes to be ridden in a relaxing way.

 

I have now done 16K and the only problems have been a bit of pitting on the forks (Sorted with some ACF-50) and

the Honda wing stickers came off while jet washing, new ones are £30 EACH so I don't think that they will be replaced soon, or ever.

I also don't like the long reach to the clutch lever (yes... I have a proper one with a clutch lever :-) )

 

Overall I think that, although it is not typical Honda quality it is good value for money, also cheap to run once the shortfalls are addressed.

 

Maybe that is why so many Bike couriers use then in London (although I find the wide bars are not great for filtering, the 600 Fazer was great for this (but thirsty).

 

I think that I shall be keeping mine for the long term as generally is is good for what I want it for, 

When I want some excitement I have the Ducati, or tell the missus that her ass may be a bit large, that is really hardcore though :-).

 

Best mods that I have made (and there are many)

 

Are:

spot lights (Invaluable for commuting in town/filtering)

Centre stand

Turoro chain oiler

Oxford heater grips

Givi Handguards

Genuine Honda touring screen + Wunderlich adjustable deflector

rear fender extender ( doesn't look much, but works great)

 

 

Really biking is "horses for courses" we all like to do it in different ways, the NC is not fast (compared to what I an used to) but I do enjoy the it and the way it makes me ride.

 

The bottom line for me is, when I see people complaining what is not great about it, I think, what do you want for £6300.. !

 

Sorry about the long post, I think that a bottle of wine may be to blame.

 

Cheers Delboy

 

P.S. YES the supplied chain is shite (got a better one on mountain bike, :-)

 

 

 

 

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  • 1 month later...

just had a snapped chain link on way back from sw ireland to Scotland..was a cheap that auction site chain called'champion' anyway 3 hrs for breakdown truck in the rain ,an hour to find a garage with chain,another hour and a hundred euros for a japan did chain and on my way,could be worse!

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  • 4 weeks later...
Scootabout

Resurrecting this thread, I've done about 6k miles since the last service, which iirc was the last time the chain was adjusted.  It now easily touches the underside of the swingarm when I press it.  Does that necessarily mean it's too slack?  The manual advises 30-40mm, but also says not to ride the bike if there's 60mm slack, implying less than that is not dangerous.  But I can't see how to check how much slack there is when it's beyond the point where it touches the swingarm. 

 

I know I should probably adjust it but I'd like to know how to check how much slack there is. 

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Spindizzy
19 minutes ago, Scootabout said:

Resurrecting this thread, I've done about 6k miles since the last service, which iirc was the last time the chain was adjusted.  It now easily touches the underside of the swingarm when I press it.  Does that necessarily mean it's too slack?  The manual advises 30-40mm, but also says not to ride the bike if there's 60mm slack, implying less than that is not dangerous.  But I can't see how to check how much slack there is when it's beyond the point where it touches the swingarm. 

 

I know I should probably adjust it but I'd like to know how to check how much slack there is. 

 

Find the tightest point, then if its slapping the swingarm adjust it so its not quite slapping the swingarm. i.e with some pressure it wont quite touch.

 

Some people will quote rulers, micrometers and the like, but after years of riding and various chains on various bikes,  close enough is good enough if biased on the slightly looser rather than tighter side. 

 

If you set exactly as per manual its just shy of touching the swingarm.

 

If you start having to adjust it frequently, consider a new chain. Mine is at 8000 miles and has been adjusted once. (I use a chain oiler)

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To be fair the fellas chain had only covered 600 miles from the original post so shouldn't be shot unless it's been jet washed to death and left to dry and no lube , but that would be rust coloured . I've changed my chain on the last nc-x  dct at 18000 I think . 

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Scootabout

Lacking a torque wrench of the right strength - plus being a bit mechanically challenged and slightly lazy - I took the bike in to FWR Tyres in Kennington, London, today and got them to adjust it.  No charge.  If you're a Londoner I recommend these guys. I've used them many times for tyres and the occasional service, brake pad change etc. Always quick (usually ride-in, ride-out), well priced and helpful. 

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