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Griff
On 11/1/2018 at 22:39, Darren G said:

Just joined the forum and reading a few of the threads there is some really useful information on here . I have been riding for 40 plus years and and have ridden and owned a huge variety of bikes . After a very nasty accident in 1982 and 30 plus years of hospital,s , surgeons and chronic pain I became a lower leg amputee in September 2016 . I wanted to carry on riding and have struggled to find a bike that I can easily modify or even ride . I found the x-adv and things have totally changed what a totally different bike both in character , ease of riding , a real jack of all trades . I have bought a silver Ex demo 67 plate with 1200 miles and I think I got it for a steal £7390 . I get off it with a grin from ear to ear . The only fault I can find is the dct gearbox is a bit clonky between 1st and 2nd gear . Does everyone else get the same or is it just mine? 

I have done some real long rides in total comfort last one was cheltenham to Aberystwyth great roads that suit the x-adv and 82mpg to boot . Have got no complaints . If I was being picky and it would be really picky a 17 inch rear wheel and 10 bhp more would make it 100 % for me . I will take some photo,s for you guys with my extra bit of carbon fibre and titanium ( leg ) 

 

Hi Darren.  Yes the changes twixt 1st and 2nd can be a little jerky.  A DCT reset can help and I also put silicone grease on the twistgrip barrell. I also took most of the slack out of the throttle cables.  DCT is brilliant imho, but not perfect, yet.  

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MikeBike
8 minutes ago, Griff said:

 

Your perceptions are interesting and obviously perfectly normal for someone coming on to an X direct from a conventional motorcycle. I also have normal bikes, and feel perfectly at home on both, but that is entirely due to years of commuting on an FJS600. In short, riders who are experienced on scooters will take to an X much quicker than those who are not.   

I went from an X to an X-ADV, a bit confusing if both get referred to as an X.

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Griff

Sorry,  I am of course referring to X-Adv. I forgot that the NCX could also be referred to also as an X.  Reprint of my text below to clarify. 

 

"Your perceptions are interesting and obviously perfectly normal for someone coming on to an X-Adv direct from a conventional motorcycle. I also have normal bikes, and feel perfectly at home on both, but that is entirely due to years of commuting on an FJS600. In short, riders who are experienced on scooters will take to an X-Adv much quicker than those who are not. 

 

One interesting point though is that if I am to ride briskly on a very twisty backroad on the X-Adv, then I have to be feet forward and sitting well forward on the seat. Nothing else feels right on it when in the groove so to speak. It is indeed a mix of both riding styles and one is left under no illusion about this. I have just returned from a 600km ride over yesterday and today in wet conditions on all sorts of roads . The X-Adv took them all in its stride and I have returned unscathed.  I love this "thing" as much as the day I bought it, possibly even moreso. The mileage is racking up, and now not too far off 20,000 kms, and that is with three other bikes in the picture.    

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dazznutts

loads of deal available on the XADV now

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Griff

I fitted a set of these to the Scoot at the weekend. They are off a 800BM but adapted well with the help of a couple of zip ties. I fitted them over the existing plastic handguards. Barkbusters are great products imho and of course the universal versions could be applied to other members of our NC family.  Only downside was a slight drop in fuel consumption. Down from 73mpg to about 70. Warm dry hands were well worth it though.  

 

https://www.webbikeworld.com/barkbusters-blizzard-hand-guards-review/

 

There are a couple of thumbnails of the job on here......

 

https://advrider.com/f/threads/2017-honda-x-adv.1174189/page-78

 

 

Edited by Griff

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kayz1

I have those on the new Forza300...very good bit of kit.

Lyn.

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Griff

One other possible downside perhaps only applicable to the Adv, is some extra turbulence around my Helmet. Not enough to take them off though as the benefits far outweigh the downsides.  

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Griff

This query relates to starting from cold after a lie up of more than a couple of days. It also refers to any owner with a NC750 motor either X or S or X-Adv. 

 

I had noticed for some time that the starter motor seemed a little laboured on startup. It may well have been always like that. It always starts after a second or so but the turnover of the engine seems to be laboured, especially on the second compression.  The tracker on my bike suggests that the battery voltage settles at 12.4V after a couple of days and there is a train of thought that such voltage is borderline too low. Add all the factors together and I decided to take a perceived hint and change the battery. Low and behold the behaviour of the starter motor and the new battery is exactly the same. Voltage when the bike is running is 14.3 per the tracker. My tech suggests that there is nothing wrong with the starting system as some modern starter motors do tend to sound like they are struggling. He quoted me a friends Ducati 1250 which seems barely able to turn over before firing up similarly to my NC. I am happy with his assessment but I am curious to know if other members have experiences similar. 

 

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Chip

Same thing on my VFR Crossrunner, SM seemed very labored during first start having been laid up over the weekend. Not an issue for me as I traded it for the NC. My NC SM does not labour after being left for a while in the garage.

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Rocker66
3 hours ago, Chip said:

Same thing on my VFR Crossrunner, SM seemed very labored during first start having been laid up over the weekend. Not an issue for me as I traded it for the NC. My NC SM does not labour after being left for a while in the garage.

Took the Crossrunner out this morning for the first time in nearly a week and it started up instantly.

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fred_jb

I think a lower ambient temperature makes a big difference to the cranking power the battery can put out, so marginal batteries start failing to start, and even good ones labour a bit.

 

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Griff

One way or another I am thinking of getting one of those little compact portable Battery Boosters for long trips away. Any recommendations will be gladly received. 

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Griff

Small update. I purchased a dedicated battery tester in Halfords. Where my tracker on the bike was suggesting 12.6V, the dedicated tester was showing 12.8v. As such the tracker would appear to be inaccurate and that makes sense to me given the various aspects of all of this little episode. It would also now be almost certain that there was nothing wrong with the old battery in the first place, as it is currently also showing 12.8V after lying idle out of the bike for a week.  

 

What is certain though is that there is a draw from the battery of slightly less than 0.1v per 24 hours. Given that it is unusual for the bikes electronics to put much of a draw on the battery normally, it therefore has to be the tracker imho. I will obviously have to keep a closer eye on the battery especially overwinter. 

Edited by Griff

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embee

You could really do with knowing what the current draw is when the bike is off ("quiescent current"). A modern bike in factory trim should be no more than a few milli-amps, low single figures. You tend to find that aftermarket stuff isn't as particular about minimising current draw, a USB adapter fitted in a live socket but with nothing actually plugged into it can take over 25mA in  my experience, a friend had his battery go flat because he forgot to unplug a USB adapter when he put the bike in his garage for a week or so. Similarly a friend's son had an insurance black box in his car and the battery went flat if left for any appreciable time. I measured the draw on that at 65mA, way way too high. Eventually after explaining the issue at length to the insurance co. they reluctantly agreed to fit one of the "new" versions, and lo, that was 15mA (still a bit high but tolerable).

I suspect a tracker may well take significant current draw.

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Trev
5 minutes ago, embee said:

You could really do with knowing what the current draw is when the bike is off ("quiescent current"). A modern bike in factory trim should be no more than a few milli-amps, low single figures. You tend to find that aftermarket stuff isn't as particular about minimising current draw, a USB adapter fitted in a live socket but with nothing actually plugged into it can take over 25mA in  my experience, a friend had his battery go flat because he forgot to unplug a USB adapter when he put the bike in his garage for a week or so. Similarly a friend's son had an insurance black box in his car and the battery went flat if left for any appreciable time. I measured the draw on that at 65mA, way way too high. Eventually after explaining the issue at length to the insurance co. they reluctantly agreed to fit one of the "new" versions, and lo, that was 15mA (still a bit high but tolerable).

I suspect a tracker may well take significant current draw.

 

I had exactly that with a USB adaptor I fitted to my NC, now have a Eastern Beaver box for the AT so all is wired into switched live through the loom. I'm not bothered about having a tracker (if someone takes it they can keep it!) but obviously they need a permanaent supply so sounds like an Optimate or similar will be the way to go.

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Griff

Optimate currently in use 👍👍

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Griff

I picked up a Chain Monkey at the Birmingham show and am well pleased with it. It more or less confirms my own messy method of adjusting the chain on this bike and more to the point it works well. The length and shape of swingarm on the X-Adv can make chain adjustment more awkward than a standard set up. 

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Griff

What sort of mileage are folks getting out of the NC 750 series chains ?  My X-Adv is not at 20,000kms and the chain is still ok albeit the front sprocket is showing wear in line with that mileage. 

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Steve1960
On 03/12/2018 at 13:58, Griff said:

I picked up a Chain Monkey at the Birmingham show and am well pleased with it. It more or less confirms my own messy method of adjusting the chain on this bike and more to the point it works well. The length and shape of swingarm on the X-Adv can make chain adjustment more awkward than a standard set up. 

I am still loving the ADV,only disappointing/strange thing is the chain,having adjusted it with someone who knows what they are doing,it still seems loose,but i know its the bike,even went to a dealer and a brand new one in the showroom had the same amount of play and various forums also confirm this is the way its set up.....just its my first chain bike for years.

Having a bit of a declutter at home i found a brand new pair of Barkbusters Blizzard handlebar muffs,,they are multi fit according to the receipt,So may see if they fit the ADV or the Tmax.

 

Steve

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Griff
6 hours ago, Steve1960 said:

I am still loving the ADV,only disappointing/strange thing is the chain,having adjusted it with someone who knows what they are doing,it still seems loose,but i know its the bike,even went to a dealer and a brand new one in the showroom had the same amount of play and various forums also confirm this is the way its set up.....just its my first chain bike for years.

Having a bit of a declutter at home i found a brand new pair of Barkbusters Blizzard handlebar muffs,,they are multi fit according to the receipt,So may see if they fit the ADV or the Tmax.

 

Steve

 

Better slack than too tight especially as it is not a heavy duty chain. 

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embee
8 hours ago, Steve1960 said:

…. the chain,having adjusted it with someone who knows what they are doing,it still seems loose,but i know its the bike,even went to a dealer and a brand new one in the showroom had the same amount of play and various forums also confirm this is the way its set up..

What I do with any new-to-me bike is get it on a centre stand and disconnect the rear suspension (usually just one bolt on monoshock bikes). Lift the rear wheel until the gearbox/swingarm/wheel pivots are in line and the chain is at it's tightest. Adjust until there's just a touch of slack at this tightest point then drop wheel back down and reconnect suspension. This then allows you to see what this setting gives at normal checking condition, whether on the sidestand or centrestand etc.

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Griff
18 hours ago, embee said:

What I do with any new-to-me bike is get it on a centre stand and disconnect the rear suspension (usually just one bolt on monoshock bikes). Lift the rear wheel until the gearbox/swingarm/wheel pivots are in line and the chain is at it's tightest. Adjust until there's just a touch of slack at this tightest point then drop wheel back down and reconnect suspension. This then allows you to see what this setting gives at normal checking condition, whether on the sidestand or centrestand etc.

 

I totally subscribe to this process and it is something I do with all of my chain drive bikes initially to clarify if the factory settings are to my liking. In the case of the X-Adv I have found that the recommended settings are more or less spot on especially the larger setting. However on this particular bike the unusual shape of the swing arm and the chain guard make setting the slack a bit of a chore. For that reason one also needs another point of reference other than the usual one of setting the slack mid point between the sprockets. I have also found that the chain monkey is very helpful in this regard.  

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kayz1

I had the XADV recall ( ECU thingy ) today, i can report a softer gear change,,,and nufinck else, still runs as before but my hands got cold on the way home with the loan bike.

A bog standard 750X no hand guards no 12volt socket to plug the gloves into. They also change the two clutch sensors??????? ny idea why they would do that Embee?

Lyn.

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Griff

I suspect that the DCT reset which would have been part of the process, would possibly account for the smoother gearchange. That was my experience with mine when I did a DCT reset. 

 

On the two clutch sensors no doubt Embee will have the answer but I am wondering if it is to do with the fact that there are two clutches in the gearbox ? 

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kayz1

Yes Griff, two clutches but WHY do they need to change clutch sensors if the problem is a thermal cut out device ?

Lyn.

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