djsb 491 Posted August 13, 2017 Share Posted August 13, 2017 I'm thinking of investing in a heavy duty chain tool (Motion Pro Jumbo chain tool) for future use. I do NOT have access to a grinder so the tool has to be able to press the pin out without grinding. I don't mind spending good money on a decent tool but if there are any other tools out there just as good but a little cheaper than the Motion Pro then I'm all ears. Fitting a spring link chain this time around but I'm thinking ahead. Thanks. PS Am I correct in thinking that the process is the same as used on bicycle chains only on a larger scale? Link to post
Dunnster 1,650 Posted August 13, 2017 Share Posted August 13, 2017 Similar process to bicycle chain. This is by far the best explanation of fitting a new chain ( and sprockets) I borrowed an angle grinder from the father in law for the grinding process. The sealey chain breaker Delboy uses is the one I have, bought from Demon tweaks for £30 A few forum members use endless chains which I would have used for my last chain replacement but an open chain was sent instead, couldn't be bothered with the hassle of returning it so riveted the open one on. 2 Link to post
shiggsy 529 Posted August 13, 2017 Share Posted August 13, 2017 Without grinding or filing the heads you'll probably break the chain breaker. Link to post
Andy m 23,473 Posted August 13, 2017 Share Posted August 13, 2017 (edited) I've used a dremel type thing before, you only need to "thin" a head for the tool to get an easier life. I think my rivet tool is motion-pro. From M&P many years ago. Works fine for the once a year sort of stuff, you only need better in a commercial workshop IMHO. Andy Edited August 13, 2017 by Andy m 1 Link to post
Tex 36,817 Posted August 13, 2017 Share Posted August 13, 2017 Yeah, a Dremmel is fine. I personally prefer the screw type of chain breaker to the, more modern, 'anvil' type. I just can't get the hang of those! Old dog/new tricks I suppose.. 2 Link to post
djsb 491 Posted August 13, 2017 Author Share Posted August 13, 2017 Thanks everyone. I was wondering about my dremel so I might give that a try the next time around if I can't get the spring clip chain anymore. Link to post
outrunner 4,457 Posted August 13, 2017 Share Posted August 13, 2017 I would also recommend using a grinder/dremel to take the rivet head off as I once broke the pin on my mates Motion-pro chain tool trying to just push the rivet out. Not being able to find a replacement pin in the UK I contacted the US headquarters and they sent me one for free. Andy. 1 Link to post
kharli 100 Posted August 17, 2017 Share Posted August 17, 2017 the 'free' ognibene tool you get with there chains is barely up to the job imo I now am happy to use spring link. it's important to measure the rivit head spread after using any tool to be sure. Link to post
Trumpet 215 Posted August 22, 2017 Share Posted August 22, 2017 (edited) I have a small grinding wheel that fits the chuck of my electric drill. Works a treat. Edited August 22, 2017 by Trumpet Link to post
Guest Peterpoddy Posted September 11, 2017 Share Posted September 11, 2017 (edited) If you've not got an angle grinder, just bosh a hacksaw through the chain. None of this poncy grinding the heads of the pins off! Cut the damned thing off! Edited September 11, 2017 by Peterpoddy Link to post
outrunner 4,457 Posted September 11, 2017 Share Posted September 11, 2017 1 hour ago, Peterpoddy said: If you've not got an angle grinder, just bosh a hacksaw through the chain. None of this poncy grinding the heads of the pins off! Cut the damned thing off! If you grind the rivet heads off to split the chain it makes it easy to hook the new chain to the old one and pull it through without any faffing about. Andy. Link to post
commuter 262 Posted September 13, 2017 Share Posted September 13, 2017 By the way, when carrying out any form of metal grinding in an industrial environment , the activity is referred to as being "hot work". In other words, take all fire precautions as you would if you were welding in a petrol station. IE nothing combustible anywhere near ( including the wooden floor of the shed... so do it outside on a concrete slab), cover anything which may be damaged by the sparks ( such as your paintwork or chrome, wet cloths come in handy ) certainly ensure there are no petrol fumes, tank breather pipes or battery breather pipes etc Finally when grinding, safety glasses good, goggles better, thick leather gloves take grinder cuts a lot better than fingers. My chain splitter has an anvil section which must be tightened onto the chain prior to screwing in the punch section. The reason behind this is to ensure that no lateral movement of the punch pin is allowed. This in turn allows for a far higher punch force to be brought to bear on the rivet and the punch never breaks. Having said all that, I have encountered one or two difficult rivets which had to be ground first ( after taking all the long winded precautions not to set fire to anything or damage anything including me) Link to post
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