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Any tips on removing blind bolts - DCT handbreak capiler


rjp996

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rjp996

When changing my rear tyre at the weekend, I took the opportunity to clean up the rear break and hand break capilers. 

The handbreak had got worse over time and was rolling on hills. 

Pads were very sticky in the capiler.  Thought I would remove the hex head slide pin bolts to get the pads out and clean things up, however the hex head bolts were stuck fast and I could feel the hex socket starting to slip as it started rolling the corners. 

I manger to fell e pads and get it working and applied break silicone and it works well. 

 

But it are there any sticks to getting out stuck hex bolts - they are blind so can't get to the other side - thought of trying a hex-plus key ?

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If you use the socket type of hex key, the type that fits onto a ratchet or breaker bar. You can give it a sharp tap with a hammer. That can often crack a stuck thread.

 

The usual method of applying heat is risky on aluminium structures. However, wrapping the culprit in a thick cloth, then pouring boiling water on and leaving it for a bit, can have the desired effect.

 

Once you get the stuck fastener out... coppa-slip is your friend on reassembly!

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Yes, use a socket hex key. And give it a few sharp ‘taps’ with a hammer. This works like a poor man’s impact driver, the shock of the tap serves to loosen the grip of the thread on the bolt.

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Spindizzy

can try ezgrip. Its a fluid with metallic particles so the sides of a hex or bit grip the walls

 

or as suggested apply as much force as you dare then strike it. Or use an impact driver with a hex bit.

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sandalfarm

Sometimes  if you tighten  the bolt a tiny tiny bit they do come loose 

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Other general tips worth remembering.....

 

Much as Spindizzy suggested, you can try using grinding paste (anyone remember that?) to enhance the grip of the key in the socket. This works well with pozi/phillips screws which are rounding out.

If the hex socket starts to round out you can sometimes retrieve the situation by tapping the head preferably with hard steel drift/punch to deform metal back inwards. Best done sooner rather than later, once round it just makes a smaller round hole.

You can sometimes find a torx bit will drive into a deformed hex socket and will bite enough to get it to shift.

Proper penetrating fluid like Plus Gas or similar will work much more effectively than WD40 etc, especially if you can soak it for a few hours and preferably apply some heat with a hot air gun or boiling water, not a naked flame.

 

Prevention is always better than cure, lube all fasteners likely to need servicing at some point.

Good quality tools are worth their weight in gold, poor tools are never good investments. Good quality tools will last your lifetime, I have some of my grandfather's tools which are still in excellent condition, some probably nearing 100yrs old.

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  • 4 weeks later...

The best way I know if all else fails is a trick an old welder taught me 50 years ago when I was an apprentice. Using a dissimilar  welding rod build up the end of the bolt or broken stud if it has already sheared. Then weld a bolt onto the build up. Now have a cup of tea while it all cools down. In about 50% of cases it then comes out with your fingers. otherwise use a spanner and Plus gas. Heat from the weld has run down the seized bolt and stirred the seizure up a bit. My theory is that as the bolts cools down with pressure of the casting around it, its grain structure  compresses. 

Many years ago Jaguar exhaust manifold studs had a habit of shearing flush with the head. The factory cure was to remove the head, set it up in a milling machine and mill out the broken studs.

From memory it was a 2 day job. I have seen my old welder friend remove 6 studs in 30 minutes. Mind you that's when welders were human not robots!

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Any luck with this?

 

I would first make sure it is well soaked in something like Plus Gas (making sure you don't get it on brake pads or disc), give it a few soakings and leave overnight if need be. Then try a socket hex in impact drivers, even cheapo ones work pretty well and can be bought for a few quid, if not try to scrounge one of the new cordless impact drivers off someone, most tradesmen use them and although not as good as an air gun it may just do the trick. You can get special anti slip paste, I have a little pot of Screw Grip (highly imaginative) that has helped on philips screws before but not tried on a hex head. I also have a heat gun that often works well in conjuction with an impact driver, even a hair dryer on highest heat can get a cold lump of metal pretty warm if you wait long enough.

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