makman 975 Posted January 17, 2018 Share Posted January 17, 2018 Well, I've decided to do my first oil change tomorrow. Bike has done 3500 miles, but with 10W40 oil in it. I'm going to drain this off and stick in the Castrol GP Racing 10W30 fully synthetic oil as it was £26.99 delivered from Amazon! Very good price. Also got a funnel and drain dish for just over £5 from the same place in a "combined deal" sale. I'll do the usual, warm bike up, wait for the fan to come on. Put on centre stand, remove oil dip stick, drain the engine. I am not changing the filters this time around as they are "new" and just treating the bike to refresh on the oil front. Any other tips? 1 1 Link to post
makman 975 Posted January 17, 2018 Author Share Posted January 17, 2018 I suppose. I tend to just anneal it and use it again.... But I might have a spare one stashed away. I have lots of banjo washers too.... Link to post
Jeffprince 4,921 Posted January 17, 2018 Share Posted January 17, 2018 Just ordered the same deal, Gordon. For the sake of an extra tenner or so, I'll be changing the filter as well, which I picked up from the dealer a few weeks ago. Forgot the sump washer, so will get one of them before tackling the job. 1 Link to post
embee 7,288 Posted January 17, 2018 Share Posted January 17, 2018 44 minutes ago, makman said: ......Any other tips? Make sure the drain container is big enough!! Allow for how far the oil will reach when you take the sump plug out too. 3 Link to post
steelhorseuk 1,690 Posted January 17, 2018 Share Posted January 17, 2018 Did mine last weekend also, Castrol Power Racing One 10w/30 part synthetic and the K&N Power Oil Filter . Used the same last time and the NC700SA seems to love it. Did not get such a good deal as you though... Got the oil at 'Halfrauds'. -Mark- 1 Link to post
makman 975 Posted January 17, 2018 Author Share Posted January 17, 2018 I did a quick Google and it spat out the Amazon price with only 4 remaining. So I bought 1! Don't have enough cash flow to get more at the moment. Drain container is 6l, I know from past experience!!! Lots of newspaper down and a towel to lie on when doing the work. I will have a look for a sump washer though and might be able to get a HF204 filter sorted in time.... 2 Link to post
Jeffprince 4,921 Posted January 17, 2018 Share Posted January 17, 2018 3 left when I bought mine! It is a good price, by the look of it..... Link to post
GerJ 209 Posted January 17, 2018 Share Posted January 17, 2018 Is there any noticeable difference between 10W30 and 10W40 oil in the engine and DCT? Link to post
wendeg 95 Posted January 17, 2018 Share Posted January 17, 2018 3 hours ago, makman said: Well, I've decided to do my first oil change tomorrow. Bike has done 3500 miles, but with 10W40 oil in it. I'm going to drain this off and stick in the Castrol GP Racing 10W30 fully synthetic oil as it was £26.99 delivered from Amazon! Very good price. Also got a funnel and drain dish for just over £5 from the same place in a "combined deal" sale. I'll do the usual, warm bike up, wait for the fan to come on. Put on centre stand, remove oil dip stick, drain the engine. I am not changing the filters this time around as they are "new" and just treating the bike to refresh on the oil front. Any other tips? I drain mine on side stand rather than centre stand. Link to post
makman 975 Posted January 17, 2018 Author Share Posted January 17, 2018 That is a good idea I guess as it then leans it over to that side and gets the last bits out.... Link to post
Jeffprince 4,921 Posted January 17, 2018 Share Posted January 17, 2018 30 minutes ago, GerJ said: Is there any noticeable difference between 10W30 and 10W40 oil in the engine and DCT? Not sure, but the manual recommends 10W30 for mine. Link to post
steelhorseuk 1,690 Posted January 17, 2018 Share Posted January 17, 2018 1 hour ago, GerJ said: Is there any noticeable difference between 10W30 and 10W40 oil in the engine and DCT? It will not make any noticeable difference for use here in the UK. If you live somewhere with a hotter climate where the temperatures can exceed 30c then you should go for the 10W40 as it has the viscosity to cope better. -Mark- Link to post
suffolk58 2,286 Posted January 17, 2018 Share Posted January 17, 2018 Oh, and also remember to put the sump plug back in before refilling with oil. I guess I'm not the only one am I? Am I? 3 1 Link to post
trisaki 2,029 Posted January 17, 2018 Share Posted January 17, 2018 (edited) Torque wrench - dct seems to work better with 10w 30 - Honda don't recommend full synthetic and really over kill on anything less then a fireblade on a track day Edited January 17, 2018 by trisaki Link to post
GunnerNC 69 Posted January 17, 2018 Share Posted January 17, 2018 With Amazon's strange pricing system at the moment the Castrol Power 1 Racing (fully synthetic) is £6 cheaper than the Power 1 (part synthetic). As you rightly say, it's overkill and I wouldn't pay extra, but as it's currently cheaper is it fine to use? or is part synthetic actually better for the NC? Link to post
trisaki 2,029 Posted January 17, 2018 Share Posted January 17, 2018 General consensus is full synthetic oil doesn't allow the engine to bed in sufficiently but saying that triumph used to (,not sure if they still do as they keep changing oil companies they use as std , ) put full synthetic in at the first 600 mile service / might be the reason why the first year or so 1050 tigers used to drink oil as much as petrol / your choice ! but I've never used full synthetic i use and sell 10w 30 and 10w 40 semi synthetic no problems at all / trying 10w 30 in my own manual nc at present will update once I've done a few miles Link to post
Tex 36,816 Posted January 17, 2018 Share Posted January 17, 2018 Yes, Triumph still changes to fully synthetic at the first service. They’re currently recommending Castrol (my auto ‘correct’ just tried to change Castrol to ‘castration’ FFS! ) which suits me as I prefer their products. I don’t think using fully synthetic would ‘hurt’ an NC in any way, but neither would you get full ‘value’ from it. But if it’s cheaper? I would.. Link to post
White Skark 114 Posted January 17, 2018 Share Posted January 17, 2018 Honda went over to full sythetic in 2001 and they said it was backward compatable, I had a clutch slip on my Goldwing which needed replacing and I am not convinced it wasn't the oil, so I have reverted to semi synthetic for the Goldwing Link to post
wendeg 95 Posted January 18, 2018 Share Posted January 18, 2018 As long as fully synthetic you will be using is motorcycle-specific and conforms to the standards outlined in your owner's manual (JASO MA or MA2) it should not create a problem. I read somewhere that clutch slippage in motorcycles was due to using NON-MOTORCYCLE SPECIFIC fully synthetic oil, i.e. engine oil designed not to lubricate the clutch etc. I am sure that using bike specific fully synthetic would be fine. I use 10w 40 full synth since the warm climate (and horrendous traffic) the oil is subjected to in malta will degrade other oils. At first service dealer put Honda mineral oil (although on the front there s written synthetic technology...it was the technology that was synth not the oil!)...after 10 miles of riding gearchanges became horrendous! Drained oil away and put Fuchs Silkolene...no problem hot or cold Link to post
makman 975 Posted January 18, 2018 Author Share Posted January 18, 2018 Choice of oil based purely on cost. I tend to use semi synthetic, but know fully synthetic is fine. I change my oil more often as I do a lot of city riding, so am in the habit of changing it at 1/2 the service interval rate. So 4k for me. At around £30 a go, that suits me fine and I know that the engine is running clean oil. Link to post
GerJ 209 Posted January 18, 2018 Share Posted January 18, 2018 The dealer put fully synthetic 10W40 in my wife's NC750X and so far the bike has not consumed a single drop. My own motorbike takes about 0.5 litre per 10,000 kms. 1 Link to post
matt28 401 Posted January 19, 2018 Share Posted January 19, 2018 Got my one as well, for this price . Offer is for Prime members only. Link to post
makman 975 Posted January 19, 2018 Author Share Posted January 19, 2018 Did the oil change today. Will change filters at the next service. Will change the spark-plugs on Monday I think as they will have been delivered by then. As the current filters have only done 3400 miles, I don't see any point in changing them out. Dropped the oil with the bike on the side stand as advised and left it for 20 minutes to dribble all the "old" stuff out. It still had a clear enough gold colour to it through the sun, so was in decent enough spec. I'll use some of it to lube the chain! Also check the coolant level and gave it a very small top up, was within range. Check fuse connections and the DCT connections on the bottom side of the bike. All nice and clean and well fitted. Happy days. Monday morning should give me a nice smooth ride to work. Link to post
Tex 36,816 Posted January 19, 2018 Share Posted January 19, 2018 (edited) How many miles in total, Gordon? The plugs are good for at least 30K. Edited January 19, 2018 by Tex Link to post
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