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Dealer adjusted the slack too tight


hypnotic

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hypnotic

Hi all,

 

I just have a quick question regarding the chain slack on NC750X DCT 2017. I took the bike to the dealer for 8k service. I haven't checked the slack immediately but when I arrived home I noticed that the slack on center stand is 30mm at the loosest point (25mm on tightest). When I put the bike on side stand as specified in the manual the slack was between 22-26mm. When sitting on the bike the slack was 12mm. The manual says it should be between 30-40 on a side stand. I have readjusted it now but could riding 60 miles do the damage to the engine? There was no noise of any kind.

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Leave it in, you are doing more harm running with no oil while the pump primes, disturbing aluminium threads etc.   10W30 means its a 10 on their viscosity scale when cold, 30 when hot.

I did the service only to keep the warranty, my bike won't see the mechanic again unless completely necessary. They mess up the work every time. I called them to tell them that the chain is too tight

Hi all,   I just have a quick question regarding the chain slack on NC750X DCT 2017. I took the bike to the dealer for 8k service. I haven't checked the slack immediately but when I arrived

embee

Unlikely to be any real harm done, but you've done exactly the right thing to double check and reset it. As long as you didn't feel or hear any alarming roughness or graininess from the chain it will have survived OK.

 

When I get a chain drive bike I check the required slack by undoing the suspension (on the centrestand) and lifting the wheel through its travel and finding the tightest point (g/box+swingarm pivot+wheel spindle in line). I set it at just a little slack at this point then reconnect everything and see what it gives when either just on the centrestand or sidestand as required. I found on the Integra that when on the centrestand if you can lift the chain to just touch the rubbing strip under the swingarm with one finger it's about right. Obviously each model could be slightly different depending on the parts used.

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hypnotic
10 minutes ago, embee said:

Unlikely to be any real harm done, but you've done exactly the right thing to double check and reset it. As long as you didn't feel or hear any alarming roughness or graininess from the chain it will have survived OK.

 

When I get a chain drive bike I check the required slack by undoing the suspension (on the centrestand) and lifting the wheel through its travel and finding the tightest point (g/box+swingarm pivot+wheel spindle in line). I set it at just a little slack at this point then reconnect everything and see what it gives when either just on the centrestand or sidestand as required. I found on the Integra that when on the centrestand if you can lift the chain to just touch the rubbing strip under the swingarm with one finger it's about right. Obviously each model could be slightly different depending on the parts used.

My chain can almost touch the rubbing strip at it's loosest point when pressed with one finger so I think this is ideal slack. This is on main stand

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Tex

Grrr.. what’s the point of paying for a dealer service when you have to correct it yourself at home later? :( 

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hypnotic
7 minutes ago, Tex said:

Grrr.. what’s the point of paying for a dealer service when you have to correct it yourself at home later? :( 

I did the service only to keep the warranty, my bike won't see the mechanic again unless completely necessary. They mess up the work every time. I called them to tell them that the chain is too tight and they told me if it has been adjusted that way then it must be correct, their employees wouldn't do it inappropriately.

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CFB

Hmmm, OK.

Youre probably right to not take the bike there again.

I believe it's better to take your time and do it yourself, if you can.

At least you know what has been done.

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PoppetM
2 hours ago, hypnotic said:

I did the service only to keep the warranty, my bike won't see the mechanic again unless completely necessary. They mess up the work every time. I called them to tell them that the chain is too tight and they told me if it has been adjusted that way then it must be correct, their employees wouldn't do it inappropriately.

 

I am scared to ask - but do you mind naming the dealer so the rest of us can avoid them too please? 

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alhendo1

The same happened to mine at its 600 mile service....tight as a bow string....absolutely shocking work from a so called Honda technician....straight back and had them slacken it off....overfilled the oil as well....had to remove some of that....

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hypnotic
19 minutes ago, PoppetM said:

 

I am scared to ask - but do you mind naming the dealer so the rest of us can avoid them too please? 

1st line motorcycles. I must admit that the rest of the work was good. They even took off the brake callipers and have lubricated the bolts. I should have taken a video of the chain after picking it up. By the way, is there a garage that someone can recommend?

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hypnotic
22 minutes ago, alhendo1 said:

The same happened to mine at its 600 mile service....tight as a bow string....absolutely shocking work from a so called Honda technician....straight back and had them slacken it off....overfilled the oil as well....had to remove some of that....

My bad that I didn't check the chain after 600 miles service as it was with the same dealer. But even when I took the bike brand new from the shop I remember the chain was too tight. I assume they did that in Honda factory, I guess the dealer is only inspecting the bike when delivering it but not making any adjustments unless necessary. I am starting to think that the chain is allowed to have 20-30% less slack than specified and it will still work fine.

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hypnotic
2 minutes ago, Lenp said:

Am I led to believe a Chain Monkey will sort it out £25 and it's sorted....Ride Safe..

Got it last week along with the laser tool for alignment :-). Do you use chain monkey? I noticed that the head of the bolt is peeling off when tightening it against the chain.

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PoppetM

Let me know how you both get on with it - my fear is cracking the wheel nut off - all very well but I prefer to know someone else has done it up sufficiently before I going bombing along a motorway (legally of course) 

 

Stefanos, I was recommended Chiswick Honda, and I have been pleased with the service. 

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hypnotic
1 hour ago, PoppetM said:

Let me know how you both get on with it - my fear is cracking the wheel nut off - all very well but I prefer to know someone else has done it up sufficiently before I going bombing along a motorway (legally of course) 

 

Stefanos, I was recommended Chiswick Honda, and I have been pleased with the service. 

Maybe their service department is good but the sales are horrible. I paid a deposit for my NC with them initially but had to wait 3 weeks for the bike to be delivered. When the bike arrived they told me they sold it to me under the last year's price and asked me to pay additional £300. Even though I had a contract they refused to give the bike for agreed price, hence I went to 1st line motorcycles. Having 2 bikes my experience so far is that there is no good mechanic, I tried 4 of them. Let's see if I will ever find the right one. I'm a perfectionist and want everything to be done according to the spec, so maybe I ask too much as I don't see other people complaining as much as myself :-)

 

With regards to wheel nut, I set the torque to 80 Nm instead of 98 Nm that is specified in the manual. 80 is definitely more than enough as I had to a lot of resistance before the click. I also mark all important nuts and bolts with the white marker (draw the line across the nut and static part of the bike) and every time I take a brake I go around the bike to inspect them in case any of them starts coming off (learned this after my mudguard went off)

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alhendo1
2 hours ago, hypnotic said:

My bad that I didn't check the chain after 600 miles service as it was with the same dealer. But even when I took the bike brand new from the shop I remember the chain was too tight. I assume they did that in Honda factory, I guess the dealer is only inspecting the bike when delivering it but not making any adjustments unless necessary. I am starting to think that the chain is allowed to have 20-30% less slack than specified and it will still work fine.

My chain was fine before it went in....technician said it was too slack and made his adjustment. ...😨.....It drove very oddly coming away from the dealership and I stopped, reached down and it was bow tight...no play with my weight on it...as I said...straight back....and he began quoting specs etc...I just told him to slacken it off....my chain is really poor quality though....I complained about it and the dealership sent away measurements and a video of it running...Honda said it was"within tolerance ".....I'll replace it at a later date if I'm going to keep the bike long term...

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Andy m
1 hour ago, PoppetM said:

- my fear is cracking the wheel nut off -

 The axle nut is a nyloc the plastic ring in the nut stops it turning just by vibration . Use a hand tool, best of all a ring spanner and when you can no longer move it with one hand it is tight enough. You will lift the bike off the back wheel before you apply enough force on that foot long spanner to break it.

 

The little adjuster nuts aren't holding it together, but same rule applies, if you can only get three fingers on the 8mm ring spanner, thats telling you enough is enough.

 

Leave the 10 foot bar with a Gorilla hanging off it to "professionals" like Dopey and Boil that set this chain. 

 

You can always buy a torque wrench. The calibration will usually be close enough for a few months to get the feel. For small stuff into aluminium (racks and bodywork) buy some Chinese nuts and bolts from your local DIY store and deliberately break them (be careful) the feel is obvious by the third go.

 

Andy 

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Tex
7 hours ago, hypnotic said:

I did the service only to keep the warranty, my bike won't see the mechanic again unless completely necessary. 

 

Percy (the Triumph) is under warranty until October. And is due an annual service now. I have no problem with the quality of work from my dealer, but, well, I think I might just get on with it.. ;) 

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Andy m

My 600 service will depend on if they muck about with the timing. If they can do it next Friday they get the job, if its a case of ringing back in October they can sell me an oil filter.

 

Andy

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arengle
9 hours ago, hypnotic said:

Hi all,

 

I just have a quick question regarding the chain slack on NC750X DCT 2017. I took the bike to the dealer for 8k service. I haven't checked the slack immediately but when I arrived home I noticed that the slack on center stand is 30mm at the loosest point (25mm on tightest). When I put the bike on side stand as specified in the manual the slack was between 22-26mm. When sitting on the bike the slack was 12mm. The manual says it should be between 30-40 on a side stand. I have readjusted it now but could riding 60 miles do the damage to the engine? There was no noise of any kind.

do you still have the label with the slack on the swing arm?

they set the slack from the S version, there is 20-30 or 25-35, did the same to me once.

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hypnotic
10 minutes ago, arengle said:

do you still have the label with the slack on the swing arm?

they set the slack from the S version, there is 20-30 or 25-35, did the same to me once.

The label is there, saying 35mm. I know that NC750 manual requires 25-35mm. If that slack works on manual, any reason why DCT would require more?

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trisaki
8 hours ago, hypnotic said:

My chain can almost touch the rubbing strip at it's loosest point when pressed with one finger so I think this is ideal slack. This is on main stand

Tightest not loosest  will ride nicer and smoother if nearer the 40mm rather than the 30mm  on tightest part of chain 

Edited by trisaki
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arengle
11 minutes ago, hypnotic said:

The label is there, saying 35mm. I know that NC750 manual requires 25-35mm. If that slack works on manual, any reason why DCT would require more?

Doesn't, both manual and DCT have the same slack, NC750S is 25-35 and the NC750X is 30-40, X had longer suspension travel this is why it require more slack

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hypnotic
2 minutes ago, arengle said:

Doesn't, both manual and DCT have the same slack, NC750S is 25-35 and the NC750X is 30-40, X had longer suspension travel this is why it require more slack

You are right, thanks :-).

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wendeg
1 hour ago, trisaki said:

Tightest not loosest  will ride nicer and smoother if nearer the 40mm rather than the 30mm  on tightest part of chain 

40mm on the side stand?

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