Chain adjustment

[ken218 28]

Been over 3 months since I got my NC, but never cleaned or lubed the chain, so I bought some chain cleaner, lube, and brush to get my hands dirty. Maybe because I haven't clean it for so long, it was impossible to get it properly cleaned. I did the best I could, but wasn't very happy with the results I got.

 

It was at this point I noticed the chain slack (maybe at the slack part) was over 65mm on the main stand, way over the spec and possibly dangerous? So I did a quick search to learn how to adjust it, and get the required tools (4 different size spanners) to get it adjusted. 

 

Wasn't quite sure with my work, I did more search afterward and found that I needed to check chain alignments as well, the marking on the swing arm is not always reliable. So few days later, I went and bought laser monkey and chain monkey for the second attempt. The laser monkey works better from the top of the chain, and it indicated my chain was about 5-10mm out of alignment, adjusted it the best I could, and off I go again for further reading on the internet. 

 

This time, I realised chain slack measured on the main stand is different to chain slack measured on the side stand, and it is better to have a slightly slack chain than over tighten chain. Double checked the slack myself, it turned out to be between 0-5mm tighter when measured on the side stand. So... off I go adjusting the chain again. This time I make sure chain is aligned to my best effort (0-3mm difference, depends on how the measurement is done), and has more slack on the main stand (between 30-45mm), etc, so hopefully it is the last time I work on it for the next couple of weeks.

 

Few lesson learnt (if they are correct)

1) Better to finish all your readings before you get cracking, it will save you time!

2) Marking on the swing arm is useful, but not 100% accurate.

3) Laser monkey is useful for alignment.

4) The idea of chain monkey is good, but I was never sure how tight I should set the chain with it clamped on, at one point I was concerned I might damage the chain. 

5) Chain slack measured on the main stand COULD be different to measurements done on the side stand (up to 5mm), but not always. It is important to compensate for it when adjusting on the main stand.

6) It is better to have the chain slack spot on, or slightly loose. It could cause more damage if the chain is too tight.

7) I really need to get an auto oiler!!

 

I guess my questions are

1) How accurate must the chain alignment be? 

2) What is normally the slack difference between tight spot and slack spot?

3) How often should I adjust the chain slack? (I assume any time when it is too loose)

4) How often should I clean/lube the chain? it appears to be more important than washing it.

5) Any other regular maintenance tasks other than chain lube I am missing?

 

[wendeg 95]

An auto oiler filled with gear oil 80-90 will keep chain lubed AND clean. If set up correctly, there will be no fling at all! A positive feed oiler minimises fling more than a gravity fed one. I have had scottoilers, positive and gravity feed with dual injector. Worked well. Others may have good experiences with other makes

[Spindizzy 7,109]

I am thoroughly exhausted reading that lot. But fair play for getting stuck in.

 

Some basic rules of thumb on the NC (my opinion anyway)

 

If the chain doesn't slap the underside of the swing arm with light pressure applied mid point its not too loose. The rear marks are accurate enough to get an initial alignment on a mark, I then do exactly  the same to tighten one side as the other with a flat at a time on the adjusters with the spindle not fully loose. If I want to check its aligned I use a piece of string. Always err to looser rather than tighter if unsure, its not going to fall off.

 

As described a chain oiler will clean and lubricate your chain, its a good idea.

 

If you don't have an oiler then maybe clean every 500 miles and lubricate well and leave the lube to dry before riding.

 

On my NCX I never cleaned the chain....ever. Hardly ever had to adjust it either but did slightly over oil it with a chain oiler.

 

My current NCS I am using a chain spray, but its an arse so will go back to a chain oiler. Its in the box waiting for me to be motivated enough to fit it.

 

Edit: I use a Loobman. Its really cheap and worth a try if you dont want to commit to a Scottoiler  or similar immediately.

 

 

 

Edited June 29, 2018 by Spindizzy

[Jeffprince 4,921]

14 minutes ago, Spindizzy said:

 

 

If the chain doesn't slap the underside of the swing arm with light pressure applied mid point its not too loose. 

 

Is this sentence available in layman's language, for this dunce who has spent the last five minutes trying to swop negatives around?

[Spindizzy 7,109]

9 minutes ago, Jeffprince said:

Is this sentence available in layman's language, for this dunce who has spent the last five minutes trying to swop negatives around?

 

umm okay 

 

You always check tension at the loosest point of the chain and at the mid point between the front and rear sprockets. This is about the point where the rubber bumper is under the swing arm. Put your finger under  lower chain run and raise it toward the swing arm. If it touches the rubber under the swing arm without applying more than minimal force then its a little loose.

[Andy m 23,513]

59 minutes ago, ken218 said:

 

I guess my questions are

1) How accurate must the chain alignment be? 

2) What is normally the slack difference between tight spot and slack spot?

3) How often should I adjust the chain slack? (I assume any time when it is too loose)

4) How often should I clean/lube the chain? it appears to be more important than washing it.

5) Any other regular maintenance tasks other than chain lube I am missing?

 

 

1. Side to side: the best you can. Count the flats on the adjuster nuts if you have to. Up and down, the slack, nearest half inch so long as it is slack and won't touch the swing arm. If any part won't move 1/4 inch slacken it off.

 

2. See 1.

 

3. Twice a year.

 

4. In summer you can use the brush every thousand miles but want the lube on every 500. In winter its every ride. 

 

5. While cleaning, oil level (make sure there is one, don't worry if it varies), make sure there is slack in the clutch cable (0.5 to 2mm) and make sure there is air in the tyres.

 

The fiddlers on here will hate the above. They get their lasers and force meter primates out every 2.714 hours of operation (1.836 if the temperature has been below 18.2C) and tighten the chain to 3.847mm of movement. This seems better than a two finger push and making sure you can't pull it off the sprocket but isn't. Over adjustment causes wear which means further over adjustment and thence a shagged chain. Its the bowstring tight shagged chain that jumps the sprocket, snaps and takes your leg off. Loose ones just make a banging noise and make wheelies harder.

 

Don't get addicted to lasers, weight ape gadgets or worse still ****y torque wrenches.

 

Andy

[Spindizzy 7,109]

1 minute ago, Andy m said:

Don't get addicted to lasers, weight ape gadgets or worse still ****y torque wrenches.

 

Andy

 

ooh a word game. 4 stars and a y.......hmmm

 

ruddy?

wan*y?

shi*y   (normally two t's)

pi55y?

 

I give up, what is it  

 

[Spindizzy 7,109]

I had to chuckle at my first 600 mile service, they adjusted it because it was 5mm too slack.

 

I should be encouraged really, they checked everything.

[Andy m 23,513]

Who knows, I make these up as I go along.

 

1 is possible although I usually refer to the vodka cocktail named after the unpopular Tudor Queen , b I rarely use,  not iii as I try to check my spelling, 4 is less likely than i/a but possible.

 

😁😁😁😁

 

Andy

 

 

[ken218 28]

30 minutes ago, Spindizzy said:

 

umm okay 

 

You always check tension at the loosest point of the chain and at the mid point between the front and rear sprockets. This is about the point where the rubber bumper is under the swing arm. Put your finger under  lower chain run and raise it toward the swing arm. If it touches the rubber under the swing arm without applying more than minimal force then its a little loose.

is this done while on the main stand? or side stand?

 

I *think* I adjusted it so it is just about touching while on side stand. is it too loose?  The slack is about 30-45mm on the main stand.

[Spindizzy 7,109]

1 minute ago, ken218 said:

is this done while on the main stand? or side stand?

 

I *think* I adjusted it so it is just about touching while on side stand. is it too loose?  The slack is about 30-45mm on the main stand.

Thats about right. 

 

It shouldn't easily slap the swingarm in any position on either stand

 

Honestly close enough is good enough just never too tight. Andy is bang on about overtightening shortening chain life. 

[ken218 28]

1 hour ago, Andy m said:

5. While cleaning, oil level (make sure there is one, don't worry if it varies), make sure there is slack in the clutch cable (0.5 to 2mm) and make sure there is air in the tyres.

 

didn't realise I should check the freeplay of the clutch cable. good call. thanks

 

 

[alhendo1 3,045]

Regards the alignment marks....I don't bother too much with them...as someone mentioned they're a guide....I get the chain slack where I want it then measure the distance between the bolts and the end of the threaded adjusters either side....once they're equal recheck slack, tighten up, recheck they're equal and that's accurate enough for me.

[embee 7,288]

I would suggest the marks are likely to be more accurate than measuring the lengths of the projection of the threaded studs. There's absolutely no guarantee any of the relevant parts (end of swingarm, end cap, nut thickness, stud length in adjuster etc) are the same both sides, there's no need for them to be. At least the marks are intended to be equal. I checked mine different ways and decided the marks on my Integra were near as dammit spot on, so I just go by those now.

I crosscheck by spinning the rear wheel when on the centre stand and make sure the chain has no great tendency to run hard one side of the sprocket.

[Andy m 23,513]

The Enfield swingarm had more length after the axle slot on one side than the other. As it used the same adjuster slide part left and right and the same end caps, counting thread showing was no use. There is no reason for Hondas to be equal even if it is less obviously uneven.

 

Polishers and owners of laser micrometers should stop reading now.

 

1. Take 10 foot of string and tie it to a brick. Run it down the wall of the back tyre round the front, to the other side of the rear and back to the brick. Check with the bars centred the gaps and angles are the same left and right. Skip this if you did it last year.

 

B. Take a marker, paint or felt tip in a colour you can see better than the stamped marks on the adjuster and draw a line across the axle slot both sides.

 

iii. Adjust the chain giving each side half or a quarter turn alternately and only pulling the axle back, never pushing forwards (if you go too far slacken the chain and start again). Do up all the nuts.

 

4. Your paint line is now disjointed because the middle has moved. If both sides are off by the thickness of the line, half the thickness or whatever, the adjustment was even.

 

e. Clean the marks off if they really bother you and your life is so pointless you have time for that, or just go ride and let nature do your job for you by covering the marks in road crud.

 

Andy

Edited June 30, 2018 by Andy m

[alhendo1 3,045]

In my defence😅...I do check the alignment marks are roughly the same and spin the wheel and visually check as per Embees last paragraph 👍it's worked for me so far..

[Andy m 23,513]

It will do and knowing Honda the swing arm will be even.

 

Andy

[Guest gbrand42]

Ah the joys of a single sided swing-arm on the Crossrunner - no alignment issues. Not had to adjust my chain yet (4,800 miles) 

[Walklikegump 284]

This thread has given me a headache. 

I have done my miles for my first service and the bike is ready of pickup. 

My plan was to start looking at things like chain maintenance over the next few weeks, but things are starting blur on here.

Time for youtube videos me thinks. !

 

 

 

 

[larryblag 14,236]

On the VFR800 forum one new member asked what to do when he'd run out of adjustment for a slack chain.

A long term member (who ought to have known better) rather unkindly suggested a new, longer swing arm

Edited July 2, 2018 by larryblag
grammar

[Andy m 23,513]

He must be made of money. Just slacked the engine mounting bolts and shove it forward a tad.

 

Andy

[embee 7,288]

7 hours ago, larryblag said:

On the VFR800 forum one new member asked what to do when he'd run out of adjustment for a slack chain.

 

Tie a knot in it. Good for another 20k miles.

[larryblag 14,236]

I was going to add that we don't treat people like that on here and would have gently advised him that he might consider a new chain (and maybe sprockets) 

[Rocker66 34,436]

I have never minded people posting amusing answers as long as they make it clear that’s what it is and then give a serious one. This is especially important when replying newcomers to motorcycling.

[Iron horse 121]

Good tip for cleaning the chain is to use paraffin. Comes up spotless and gets all the gunk off. Safe on the O rings too.

 

For alignment, I bought one of those tools. Basically a clamp that fits on to the rear sprocket with a thin rod attached to it. The rod should point down the line of the chain when viewed from the rear.