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neojynx

Rear wheel bearings

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Iron horse

Funnily enough I didn't really notice when riding either. More just that there was play in the right bearing when I was cleaning the chain and the back wheel was off the ground

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shiggsy

Nearly 45k and still got original bearings all round, in-fact still got the original 2012 battery and spark plugs.  (if you now see me stuck on the hard shoulder trying to turn the motor over with  a flat battery give ma a wave :)

 

Edited by shiggsy
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smdotio

Mine went at 16k, they're not the best quality.

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Can do biker

Mine went at 17K, the disc side bearing was particularly rough and had some play in it.  As they had done 2.5 winters of commuting I suppose I can't complain?  Easy enough to change too.  Not sure where folk are sourcing the parts but I got the bearings (from a link posted previously above) and seals separately ...but only because I assumed the seals came with bearings and realised when they arrived that they weren't included...or even sold by that supplier.  I've seen a kit for sale since for around £30 which contains the three bearings and two seals that you need.:baby:

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putz

my nc 700s on 94 k and still on same rear wheel bearings , the front ones changed at 88k, maybe time to change rear

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embee

I canged the rear on mine at around 20k mls purely as a precaution, I didn't want the risk of a failure part way through a continental tour. I have the facilities to do it, it's an easy job, and the cost is pennies for the 2 wheel bearings. The sprocket carrier bearing is a slightly different issue. It reminds me I must do the front ones next time I have the wheel out (need a new front tyre before putting it back on the road next year anyway).

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rjp996

Just ordered bearings for front and rear - got to change the tyres in the next week or so, so thought would change the bearings out as only £18 in total. Bike has done 60k, probably 35k on the rear bearing and 20k on the front - however I used Shield bearings on the front when I last changed and was never that happy, as the depth of the bearing seems a fraction thicker with Shields and not seals, and the center #pipe# between the two bearings that normally floats was a little pinched.

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machinman
On 09/12/2018 at 16:59, putz said:

my nc 700s on 94 k and still on same rear wheel bearings , the front ones changed at 88k, maybe time to change rear

Awesome milage, any major probs along the way?

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putz

no probs at all , just the normal bits like pads a clean of brakes  and oils, heading to 100k pretty soon , then i may get valves checked and a service.

 

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neojynx
21 hours ago, putz said:

no probs at all , just the normal bits like pads a clean of brakes  and oils, heading to 100k pretty soon , then i may get valves checked and a service.

 

Im aiming for 100,000 plus.  Currently up to 34,000 since last December..  No major problems either, fingers crossed..   But my rear bearings did explode at 30,000 miles.  

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Scootabout

Just had one set - there seem to be two? - of rear bearings replaced. Bike has done 39,600 miles but the rear wheel was replaced after an accident about three years ago, so the bearings must have done about 22-24k miles. 

How can you tell that they need doing, if there are no obvious symptoms?  Is it wheel play? 

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Iron horse
31 minutes ago, Scootabout said:

Just had one set - there seem to be two? - of rear bearings replaced. Bike has done 39,600 miles but the rear wheel was replaced after an accident about three years ago, so the bearings must have done about 22-24k miles. 

How can you tell that they need doing, if there are no obvious symptoms?  Is it wheel play? 

Raise the rear wheel off the ground. Move the wheel side to side and you'll see and feel play in the bearing. More likely to occur on the right/disc side as it's more exposed to the elements. It is pretty obvious if you do have play. If not, then rotate the wheel and it should spin freely, providing the chain it's too tight etc. 

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JamesS

Sorry to resurrect this thread, but my disc-side rear wheel bearing has just gone at almost exactly 25k miles. Clearly some are lasting much longer, but as several are going at the 25k point it may be worth people regularly checking as they approach that mileage (see Iron Horse's guidance above - it's really easy).

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shiggsy

Always check mine when the wheels are off for a tyre change, just turn them by finger, if they feel a bit rough time for a change.  At 50k mine are still ok, be fitting a new front brake disc though when the pads next need a change.

 

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DelBoy

Just had 2 new tyres fitted today, when I picked the bike up they informed me that the wheel bearings were a bit rough and could do with changing.

Unfortunately I left the bike with them and went to the Cafe without leaving my mobile number, as, If they had called, I would have said to replace them while the wheels were off, they quoted £60 for both.

 

To their credit they said if i brought it back to them whey would change them for the same price.

I have changed wheel bearings myself, but for £60 for both wheels all in I will take it back to them.

 

FYI the shop is called FWR, they are ibaswed in London, SE11, Kennington road, their tyre prices are very reasonable as are their chain & Sprocket prices.

 

The bike has done 41k, so not too bad :thumbsup:

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embee
2 hours ago, DelBoy said:

…………………………….., they quoted £60 for both.

 

To their credit they said if i brought it back to them whey would change them for the same price.

I have changed wheel bearings myself, but for £60 for both wheels all in I will take it back to them.

 

£60 to do both wheels sounds very fair to me, you're not going to get it done for less than that short of doing it yourself.

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DelBoy
On 5/20/2019 at 16:31, embee said:

£60 to do both wheels sounds very fair to me, you're not going to get it done for less than that short of doing it yourself.

Exactly what I though. Just had them done.

 


Next job if Hyperpro fork springs and oil 

And new oxford grips.

Both of which I will do myself.

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embee
4 hours ago, DelBoy said:

…….Next job if Hyperpro fork springs and oil 

And new oxford grips.

Both of which I will do myself.

Before you get any springs, have a look into what spring rate you actually need. The stock springs are "progressive", so just going for some other "progressive" springs without knowing what you've got and what the new ones are will not necessarily gain you anything (the name Hyperpro is irrelevant).

Several folk on here have done a lot of research and experimentation with front suspension, search/ask and ye shall be rewarded.

Personally I like single rate springs, you know what you're getting and you know what you've got through the entire travel, and you can make the damping suit the spring rate more easily. In real world road use a single rate spring works fine as long as it's about the right rate. I use http://www.ktechsuspension.com/ for springs, they're very helpful and will probably have some useful experience of the NC750X range by now.

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Iron horse

I'd add too that replacing old fork oil will freshen up the feel of the bike. I used some basic Castrol stuff , which isn't the best, but it feels fine to me and better than before the change. Cheap too and something that is often overlooked as a service item. Also check your steering bearings for notchiness as they might need a change too

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DelBoy

Head bearings have just been checked are fine. I will definitely change the Fork oil though, if nothing else.

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embee
On ‎23‎/‎05‎/‎2019 at 14:30, DelBoy said:

Head bearings have just been checked are fine. I will definitely change the Fork oil though, if nothing else.

I recommend Fuchs/Silkolene "Maintain" RSF fork oil. It has a very good stability versus temperature (viscosity index VI) compared to mny other brands. I get it from https://www.sportsbikeshop.co.uk/

I use their 7.5W spec, which is actually very close to most other manufacturer's 10W oil. See for reference http://peterverdone.com/wiki/?title=Suspension_Fluid

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