Jump to content
neojynx

Rear wheel bearings

Recommended Posts

Iron horse

Funnily enough I didn't really notice when riding either. More just that there was play in the right bearing when I was cleaning the chain and the back wheel was off the ground

Share this post


Link to post
shiggsy

Nearly 45k and still got original bearings all round, in-fact still got the original 2012 battery and spark plugs.  (if you now see me stuck on the hard shoulder trying to turn the motor over with  a flat battery give ma a wave :)

 

Edited by shiggsy
  • Like 1
  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
smdotio

Mine went at 16k, they're not the best quality.

Share this post


Link to post
Can do biker

Mine went at 17K, the disc side bearing was particularly rough and had some play in it.  As they had done 2.5 winters of commuting I suppose I can't complain?  Easy enough to change too.  Not sure where folk are sourcing the parts but I got the bearings (from a link posted previously above) and seals separately ...but only because I assumed the seals came with bearings and realised when they arrived that they weren't included...or even sold by that supplier.  I've seen a kit for sale since for around £30 which contains the three bearings and two seals that you need.:baby:

Share this post


Link to post
putz

my nc 700s on 94 k and still on same rear wheel bearings , the front ones changed at 88k, maybe time to change rear

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
embee

I canged the rear on mine at around 20k mls purely as a precaution, I didn't want the risk of a failure part way through a continental tour. I have the facilities to do it, it's an easy job, and the cost is pennies for the 2 wheel bearings. The sprocket carrier bearing is a slightly different issue. It reminds me I must do the front ones next time I have the wheel out (need a new front tyre before putting it back on the road next year anyway).

Share this post


Link to post
rjp996

Just ordered bearings for front and rear - got to change the tyres in the next week or so, so thought would change the bearings out as only £18 in total. Bike has done 60k, probably 35k on the rear bearing and 20k on the front - however I used Shield bearings on the front when I last changed and was never that happy, as the depth of the bearing seems a fraction thicker with Shields and not seals, and the center #pipe# between the two bearings that normally floats was a little pinched.

Share this post


Link to post
machinman
On 09/12/2018 at 16:59, putz said:

my nc 700s on 94 k and still on same rear wheel bearings , the front ones changed at 88k, maybe time to change rear

Awesome milage, any major probs along the way?

Share this post


Link to post
putz

no probs at all , just the normal bits like pads a clean of brakes  and oils, heading to 100k pretty soon , then i may get valves checked and a service.

 

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
neojynx
21 hours ago, putz said:

no probs at all , just the normal bits like pads a clean of brakes  and oils, heading to 100k pretty soon , then i may get valves checked and a service.

 

Im aiming for 100,000 plus.  Currently up to 34,000 since last December..  No major problems either, fingers crossed..   But my rear bearings did explode at 30,000 miles.  

Share this post


Link to post
Scootabout

Just had one set - there seem to be two? - of rear bearings replaced. Bike has done 39,600 miles but the rear wheel was replaced after an accident about three years ago, so the bearings must have done about 22-24k miles. 

How can you tell that they need doing, if there are no obvious symptoms?  Is it wheel play? 

Share this post


Link to post
Iron horse
31 minutes ago, Scootabout said:

Just had one set - there seem to be two? - of rear bearings replaced. Bike has done 39,600 miles but the rear wheel was replaced after an accident about three years ago, so the bearings must have done about 22-24k miles. 

How can you tell that they need doing, if there are no obvious symptoms?  Is it wheel play? 

Raise the rear wheel off the ground. Move the wheel side to side and you'll see and feel play in the bearing. More likely to occur on the right/disc side as it's more exposed to the elements. It is pretty obvious if you do have play. If not, then rotate the wheel and it should spin freely, providing the chain it's too tight etc. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×