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Head bearing replacement problem


Iron horse

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Iron horse

It was time to tackle my head bearing which had become a bit notchy. The wheel would self centre when lifted off the ground so definitely needed some attention.

 

I bought a set of tapered roller bearings. It was a bit of a faff removing the top yoke with all the cables and hoses but managed to move it to one side. Stripped it down and found that it was only the top bearing that that was pitted and corroded. Anyway set about removing the hear from the bottom yoke. That came off fairly easily. The top stem outer race not too bad, tapped out with a screw driver from underneath. The bottom race had caused me some issues as it very easily got wedged at an angle and now seized in place.

 

I have tried heat with a hair dryer, don't fancy melting the loom and hoses with a blow torch! Also WD-40 but it won't shift. I have a sealey bearing removal tool on order - in hindsight I should have got one in the first place. Any recommendations or tips on what to do next? 

 

Anyway, the forks have some nice new oil in them once I do get it all back together.

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Guest machinman

Gently tap it back in to the frame. Persevere, it will go back in. I punched mine out with a big blunt punch from the top. Keep alternating the blows 180° to keep it as square as poss. Ensure the bike is secured and safe and you have plenty of light, get an assistant to help.

Keep us posted

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fj_stuart

Phil, I feel your pain! Replacing steering head bearings is one my least favourite tasks. On the last two bikes I've done (Honda CBF250 & Yamaha FJ1200) the lower races were a nightmare. They are pressed into the frame with no way tapping them out (the uppers are ok)

 

I ended up partly grinding through the races with a Dremel and splitting them with a chisel. Another method I've heard of is to weld a bar across to allow the race to be driven out.

 

For the gory details see my blog here

 

http://fjstuart.blogspot.com/2014/05/cbf-spring-clean-2014-part2.html

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+1 for the dremal. I've had a needle bearing race stuck too, could not shift it with a bearing puller and slide hammer. Spent a whole day at it, until I decided to use a die grinder on a dremil and it was out in about 10 mins. 

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what are the garage costs for this job ,?Honda cork dealer charged me 100 euro inc as it was already in for an insurance claim.

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  • 4 weeks later...
Iron horse

Thought I'd report back on the steering bearing problems I was having.

 

Anyway, I ordered a Sealey removal tool which clamps up over the top of the bearing race. 3 whacks with a hammer and it popped out. Much better than I was expecting and would recommend one of these tools as essential for anyone doing this. Same goes for the castle socket for tightening the bearing too. 

 

One gripe though is with the design of the bike. Why did the Honda engineers decide it was a good idea to run some metal brake pipes out directly under the steering bearing? The clamp unbolts but the pipes are right in the way when it comes to driving in the new race. Not helpful.

 

So would I do a head bearing again? Yes probably, given that I now have the tools and learned a lot the first time round. However, if I'd known it was going to be tricky as it was I might have booked it in somewhere for a pro to do.

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  • 1 year later...
On 11/19/2018 at 21:02, Iron horse said:

Thought I'd report back on the steering bearing problems I was having.

 

Anyway, I ordered a Sealey removal tool which clamps up over the top of the bearing race. 3 whacks with a hammer and it popped out. Much better than I was expecting and would recommend one of these tools as essential for anyone doing this. Same goes for the castle socket for tightening the bearing too. 

 

One gripe though is with the design of the bike. Why did the Honda engineers decide it was a good idea to run some metal brake pipes out directly under the steering bearing? The clamp unbolts but the pipes are right in the way when it comes to driving in the new race. Not helpful.

 

So would I do a head bearing again? Yes probably, given that I now have the tools and learned a lot the first time round. However, if I'd known it was going to be tricky as it was I might have booked it in somewhere for a pro to do.

 

Hi Phil, do you have a part number or reference for the Sealey tool which you used for this job, thanks, Will

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1 hour ago, Iron horse said:

Hi Will

 

It was one of these https://www.sealey.co.uk/product/5637192210/motorcycle-steering-stem-bearing-race-removal-tool . I think paid about about £30 delivered from memory. Bottom race popped out with three taps with this in place. 

That's the one that I use. Solid piece of kit.

 

It's a bit cheaper from Demontweaks

 

https://www.that auction site.co.uk/itm/Sealey-Motorcycle-Bike-Universal-Steering-Stem-Bearing-Race-Removal-Tool-MS040/301927919333?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

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Slowboy

+1 for that, and I’ve also got the bearing installer, it makes it so much easier.

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  • 1 year later...

Did you install the standard bearing races (bearing cage/balls and top/bottom races) or a taper bearing replacement (if available)?

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  • 2 weeks later...
Steve Case

Burgman lower head race was blind, could not see it from the top so i bought a blind bearing puller which is a finger set that expands into the gap above the bearing that screws to a slide hammer.

Did the job, Sealy i think.

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Steve Case

Sorry just repeating what everyone else said. Thought i'd jump in because of the Burgman and having exactly the same issue and having to buy the tool for it.

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Steve Case

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