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NC700 Bleeding Sequence


Guest Paget76

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Guest Paget76

Hmmm, just found a note in the service manual saying that you need to alternate bleeding front then back 3 or 4 times after they run clear! Guess I'll be spending a fun hour tonight...

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trisaki

Cant say I have ever had a problem  , you just seem to be lucky ! Dont undo the nipples too far and keep the level up 

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DaveM59

The air inside either front or rear pipes affects the efficiency of pumping whichever bleed nipple you have open as it compresses, so you have to keep swapping until absolutely certain you have got rid of all the air from both lines. I would actually open the bleed nipples wide so evacuation is easier than compressing any air in the other part of the linked system. Slightly different approach.

Edited by DaveM59
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Guest Paget76
3 minutes ago, embee said:

Do you use a vac type bleeder?

No, just the old-fashioned method. Shouldn't make a difference, though, other than speed (and a sore arm)?

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Hmmm. Nothing wrong with the old fashioned method but it doesn't work properly afterwards. OK.

Edited by embee
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DaveM59

When the outgoing fluid is as clean as what you are topping the reservoir up with, then do another reservoir full. Then swap to the other end and do the same. Repeat.

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Guest Paget76

OK, bled back and then front twice more (2 reservoirs-full each go), which does seem to have done the trick, although no visible air in the fluid. Strange system...

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DaveM59

Good. I know some owners use a technique where they use a strong rubber band to keep the brake lever(s) squeezed all night and say it lets air rise up and out over time. I can't quite see how this works although the theory that air rises to the top is fine, there are valves and pistons in the way, but they do claim it works.

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Guest Paget76
2 hours ago, DaveM59 said:

Good. I know some owners use a technique where they use a strong rubber band to keep the brake lever(s) squeezed all night and say it lets air rise up and out over time. I can't quite see how this works although the theory that air rises to the top is fine, there are valves and pistons in the way, but they do claim it works.

That seems rather odd, but worth a try! 

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3 hours ago, DaveM59 said:

Good. I know some owners use a technique where they use a strong rubber band to keep the brake lever(s) squeezed all night and say it lets air rise up and out over time. I can't quite see how this works although the theory that air rises to the top is fine, there are valves and pistons in the way, but they do claim it works.

 

I have been doing that since I first tried it (in desperation) on a Trident In 1977. It worked then and it works now. All our race bikes are ‘finished off’ that way (after the traditional bleeding process). How does it work? Dunno, above my pay grade that one! :) 

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Guest Paget76
13 minutes ago, Tex said:

 

I have been doing that since I first tried it (in desperation) on a Trident In 1977. It worked then and it works now. All our race bikes are ‘finished off’ that way (after the traditional bleeding process). How does it work? Dunno, above my pay grade that one! :) 

Presumably a weight on the pedal overnight would acheive the desired result?

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15 minutes ago, Paget76 said:

Presumably a weight on the pedal overnight would acheive the desired result?

 

Indeed. The front brake lever is just secured to the twist grip with a rubber band and a decent sized (at least a kg) weight hung from the rear pedal with a cable tie. Go and have a good night’s sleep and let the brake fairies work their magic. Don’t forget to thank them in the morning.. :niceone:

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Graham NZ

+1 to letting the final-bleeding fairies do their bleeding-best.

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Guest Paget76

Well, left it over the weekend with a weight on the pedal, and indeed the fairies do seem to have visited! Still not as responsive as I'd like, but a definite improvement!

 

Thanks again to everyone for the help and suggestions

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