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wjvh

Some electrical add-ons

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wjvh
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Today I fitted a Koso Mini-3 plus a silver Koso handlebar stem clamp which has a special slot for the device so it looks like it’s OE. Wired it directly into the optional harness. I used the three-wire line but I had to reposition one of the subharness wires so that there is constant low-voltage power into the device when the ignition is off, then the other two wires are simply for switched/ignition on and ground. The device has a nice big clock, digital temp gauge and volt read-out. The voltage display function can also be set to alert you if the voltage drops below a level which you can choose, with the alert presenting as a flashing voltage display. Clever.

 

i also fitted a pair of auxiliary cree led lamps; a flood one on the left angled out towards the kerb slightly and on the right a  spot beam angled flat and forwards. They are wired into the subharness onto an ingnition live only, so no high/low beam, which is what I was after. They were £23 for the pair from Amazon and I am impressed with the build quality and beams - time will tell how they fare.

They came with brackets which I have mounted onto the front top mudguard points - to do this I purchased some new 40mm long bolts (OE are 30mm) with the extra 10mm being used to accommodate the bracket and some rubber spacers -

I added the spacers to push the lights out a bit and thus clear the fork legs, and also to soak up vibrations. They are mounted lower than I wanted but mounting options on the NCS are limited and I was conscious not to mount in a way which could drown out the indicators. I may move the R spot light high up onto the R side of the handlebars (near the mirror stalk) in the future as I think it will be better placed there for raising visibility especially when filtering.

 

later this week I will be fitting a connector for a new pair of Gerbing heated gloves (currently on offer from Gerbing website for £100), I will fit this to a switched live on the remaining subharness connector which I think is better than an always-on direct-on-battery line which is the intended set-up. The gloves have three heat settings with the switch being on the L glove so that there is no separate controller to mount. This means I will be able to remove my Oxford heated grips which I don’t think are working too well (assume resistance somewhere as take a long time to heat up and then the heat is somewhat uneven and only really effective on max); this will also free up some handlebar space and permit fitting of Puppy Grips for more comfort.

 

For this electrical stuff I purchased connector sets, fuses, shrink wrap, crimper

tool and heat gun. Total outlay for these sundries was about £40 but well worth it as the wiring is neat and secure. I had a bit of spare 12v wiring and sheaths etc. so did not need to purchase these.

 

I purchased the required subharness relay from Amazon for £2.50 compared with £15 for the OE Honda one. it works fine BUT it is not as compact as the Honda one so it sits proud in the fuse box and the fuse box cover now doesn’t fit. I will prob secure the cover with a rubber band for now but will see if I can get a better fitting relay sometime; the Honda price is ridiculous and why don’t they supply the relay with the subharness anyway? Bit naughty Mr Honda ...: 🤨

 

i also plan to fit a Bluetooth tyre pressure monitoring system; there are some good ones on Amazon for about £40. Michelin do a set-up for £80. Also on my handlebars I have a Bluetooth controller for my iPhone (battery powered) which can vary volume and move backwards or forwards between tracks - I have fitted some cheap Bluetooth headphones into my helmet (rechargeable internal battery) which cost a tenner from eebay; the controller was £13 from Amazon. I like to listen to radio 4 when I travel, sometimes music, and other things like audio books. I now also use Alpine Race silicon earplugs which are amazing! £13 from Amazon and probably the best purchase of all - they have a nice little air pressure channel in them which also permits sound from the helmet speakers into my ears whilst still cancelling out the wind noise. 

 

My previous non-electric farkles which are mainly winterisation mods are doing a great job, especially the vinyl flaps I placed to keep crud off the rear shock and links. I will fit an additional mudflap to the fender extender at some point.

 

following notice from this very forum, I got some wd40 chain stuff from Aldi. The chain cleaner was very effective; I have relubed with wd40 chain wax and will report back how that fares. In about 10k miles time I will replace the chain and sprockets and at that point I’ll fit a tutoro chain oiler - probably about 18 months to go ~ish.

 

The only mechanical mod I wish was possible with the NC range is shaft drive, something which I think has totally disappeared from new sub-1L bikes (am I right?). I have shaft drive on my 1982 CX500EC and it is bloody brilliant. My mate has it on his two Pan Europeans too. Oh well.

 

I’ve been recording mpg’s since early jan and overall getting 85mpg without even trying. Best tank was 239 miles at 93mpg. That is really terrific and helps pay all of these farkles.

 

I’ll have to pay me dues for the forum then I’ll post some pics in the gallery to show off, I mean demonstrate, all of my handiwork. I’ll also be able to get hold of a proper nc700s wiring diagram which would be useful ... 😉

 

no riding this weekend but back on the commute tomorrow , au revoir,  Will

 

 

Edited by wjvh
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McGyver

Any chance for a photo of the Koso handlebar clamp as I'm also interested in one?

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wjvh

Yep, will sort that in next few days.

only source I could find for the clamp was USA and in silver (they also do red and black). I think the silver looks great on my white nc700s. You will need some bolts to replace the current ones; I will have a spare set so if you do buy a clamp let me know and I’ll send you the bolts. Cost for clamp was about £40 (bit less) including delivery BUT I got stung for £11 customs charge 🤨. Delivery was pretty quick.

remind me to post if I don’t put anything up before Sunday. Cheers, Will

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wjvh

I’ve uploaded some pics. It’s a bit of a pain to do so I’ll stick the rest on Flickr (search for user = wjvh).

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McGyver

Awesome!

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DervMan

Lovely write up @wjvh I do like the koso unit as I’ve been trying to find a thermometer. I also have that exact Bluetooth control unit in my that auction site watch list as it seems much more sensible than trying to turn a wheel and hold a button on the SENA 20S! 

 

It’s really important to key an eye on battery health these days so I’ve fitted a very compact LED based monitor made by Gamtronix. I write an article for my local motorcycle club that covers this topic. Here it is for anyone interested. I’m not a writer so don’t complain about how badly written it is 😉

 

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1rM_UOMTTsNn9BZ4NQhbSAHoR489Nr1XrTOAoNRgueeo

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wjvh

Thank you DervMan - I didn't realise I had typed out so much until I had finished, and I did all that on my iPhone on Sunday night (beer in hand, of course) after messing on for most of the day. I included sufficient info to help others should they wish to try same or similar additions/farkles etc. If anyone does wish to I would be happy to answer any Q's via the forum, and if they're near Durham then they can pop round and I can provide some real-life assistance (within reasonable bounds of time).

 

Anyway, I had a read of your article too, which I thought read nicely, and I think your visual battery alert is a good addition although presumably the voltage thresholds are pre-set, or can you adjust those? The Koso-3 allows you to set a single voltage alert threshold between 8.0 and 13.0 volts. The visual alert is not as clear as a flashing coloured LED, being only a flashing display. I plan to set the threshold at 11.5v when I get around to it. You can also see the real-time voltage, e.g. when travelling, and the effect that different devices have on the voltage. Reassuringly, when the engine is running, the voltage is between 13 and 14. It can dip below 12v sometimes but not when the engine is running.

 

My next project is to fit an additional brake light, R+L Rear lights, and Rear Indicators, and a 2A USB plug into my Givi E307 top-box. This top-box has removable reflective panels which are designed for just this purpose. There is a even a Givi kit (E108) to fit a brake light with contact connectors but I do not intend to use this; instead I will use some spare slots on the sub-harness option plus tap into the other lines I need. The USB plug will be on a switched-ignition live although I will make that separate to the rear light connection just so that it is more robust. I'll post some pics when it is all done.

 

I notice you're in Bristol, correct? That's where I am from originally (Westbury-on-Trym) with most of my family still there hence I was hoping to go the Bristol Classic Bike Show back in Feb.

 

Cheers, Will

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DervMan

Hi Will, I'm impressed you typed all that on a phone! The battery monitor I've fitted changes colour depending on the level of over/under voltage. The feature I really like is when the bike's not running the LED will flash every 30 seconds to display battery level, green flash is all good, where as a yellow or red flash means 'charge it'!

 

I've fitted a 12v socket in the top box, but that's powered by the PDM60 I have installed in the frunk. I've used a water proof connector so I can easily remove the top box.

 

Yep in Bristol, I work in the centre but live between Bristol/Bath. Lucky you didn't make the trip down for the bike show as the date did get moved due to snow.

 

Cheers

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wjvh

Bored, on a long cramped train journey so thought I’d upload some pics of my auxiliary light output, these were £24 for the pair from Amazon and they seem like decent quality, but of course only time will tell:

 

 

A9749B0F-64DF-4CC2-A21E-DE273781B2A4.jpeg

9A77DB9F-2F15-456F-BDC9-9C7E477DDC67.jpeg

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wjvh

3D854319-84A5-445B-9E35-B93EEF3B56BC.jpeg

0FE893AE-4C53-439A-BBF6-F5298E79CF6A.jpeg

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wjvh

Here’s a few more now I’ve managed to shrink the pics to the regulation size. Let one (below) is with headlight on full beam too.

C1C5E8B6-7DDF-4324-B7F8-71743762FEF6.jpeg

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wjvh

0D934BA6-8549-4046-9062-079CCD6B2AD1.jpeg.ff2e63e8b17db56004b1158a465b2ef0.jpeg

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wjvh

After putting extra front lights on my NC700S I thought the rear end could

do with some lighting improvements

too so I’ve fitted extra rear, indicator and brake lights into my Givi 37L top box; box also has an ignition-switched USB charging port too. Was damn fiddly but the end result was worth it. Plug point is next to petrol filler cap.

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wjvh

0E3DBED5-BB91-4F4E-81D1-F9B07E50B21E.jpeg

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