Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Wedgepilot

Repacking exhausts

Recommended Posts

Wedgepilot

I bought an aftermarket can a couple of years ago, and it came with a note that said it would need repacking after 10,000 miles. I've now done almost double that mileage since I fitted it, but I'm still not convinced it needs repacking. 

 

I know these things can creep up on you, but I think it sounds pretty much the same, no hollow booming or tinniness.

 

What's the wisdom of the forum on repacking? Is the lazy, low-revving NC engine easier on exhausts?

Share this post


Link to post
Grumpy Meltdown

You’ll probably find most of the wadding has burnt away, but you’ve just got used to it getting louder.

Repacking them is quite easy. You just have to drill the rivets out, separate the inner and outer to clean-out all the old wadding, if there’s any left.

Wind the new stuff round the inner tube and rivet the bits back together.

IIRC they use stainless rivets which can be tough to pull up.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Tex
On 14/03/2019 at 20:47, Grumpy Meltdown said:

You’ll probably find most of the wadding has burnt away, but you’ve just got used to it getting louder.

Repacking them is quite easy. You just have to drill the rivets out, separate the inner and outer to clean-out all the old wadding, if there’s any left.

Wind the new stuff round the inner tube and rivet the bits back together.

IIRC they use stainless rivets which can be tough to pull up.

 

That’s exactly what I did to my son’s Street Triple. I did it twice, actually, as I really packed the new wadding in and made it too quiet (wouldn’t rev above about 7k either - doh!).

  • Sigh 1

Share this post


Link to post
Grumpy Meltdown

Engineering brain kicked in when I had my Hornet 9.

I bought a pair of cans and the were too long. Looked horrible, so I decided to chop a few inches off.

A quick fight with some Tim’s ops and hey presto. Even managed to get BS stamped trim for the ends. 😉

Share this post


Link to post
SteveThackery

In general I find the wadding blows out very quickly from absorption-type silencers.  One way to make them last longer is to wrap a layer of steel wool around the perforated pipe, then follow that by the normal wadding.  So, the first layer is steel, the rest is glass fibre (or modern equivalent).

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Grumpy Meltdown
9 hours ago, SteveThackery said:

In general I find the wadding blows out very quickly from absorption-type silencers.  One way to make them last longer is to wrap a layer of steel wool around the perforated pipe, then follow that by the normal wadding.  So, the first layer is steel, the rest is glass fibre (or modern equivalent).

 

And when the steel wool starts breaking down you get pretty sparks out the end. 😄

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×