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electric_monk

Spotlight wiring

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electric_monk

I have just fitted a set of Clearwater spotlights to my 750 X and am almost finished wiring them. I'm hoping that someone can recommend the most convenient places to tap into a live feed AND the high beam wiring.

 

thanks

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GaryBee

use the above link which will give you an idea (hopefully it will work)

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ncx19

you should use a separate relay.

 

power feed for lamps direct from battery with a fuse in an accessible location and feed one side of relay contacts.

the other side of contacts to the lamp/s

 

You will need to test probe the wires going to the headlight to identify the high beam lead.

Tap that to feed the coil of the relay, and the other side of the coil is a lead to ground.

 

Its a simple job, though access to the headlight wiring will be the trickier part of the job.

 

I'm waiting for parts to do my own.  Once Ive installed, hopefully Ill remember to come back and update how I accessed the headlight wiring.

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kayz1

What year is the bike?

DO NOT tap into any head lamp wires if they are LED lamps....the bike will/does have a socket pre wired in the loom if they are LED'd

for the spot lamp wiring ..down load the Honda parts how to from the Honda site for your model. This will give you all the detail on

where bits are..

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ncx19
47 minutes ago, kayz1 said:

the bike will/does have a socket pre wired in the loom if they are LED'd

for the spot lamp wiring ..down load the Honda parts how to from the Honda site for your model. This will give you all the detail on

where bits are..

That would be the best if one exists, and very convenient. Are you suggesting the lead is switched with high beam, or just a source of power?

 

I have ordered the NC's relay and wiring harness kit to get an ignition controlled feed for mine vs the battery.

Plus I have other accessories I want an ignition switched feed for.

 

Though the spots wont come on with a separate relay and direct battery lead, as the high beam lead cant be powered  when the bike is off.

You dont need to go the factory accessory relay/harness route just to add only spots.

And im adding spots ... ie I only want them on when hi-beam is selected.

 

Taping into the high beam lead to trigger the relay though, is a very low current application and appropriate..

Obviously trying to feed spots from the high beam lead is a bad idea.  You should use a separate direct battery feed, hence a relay.

Edited by ncx19

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GaryBee

As Lyn asked, in order to help you out we need a little more information such as model year. If you have an LED headlight do NOT try and get a trigger signal from it for the high beam unless you are 100% sure you know what you are doing as you will take out something expensive. As far as I am aware no-one on here has managed to get extra lights synched to their LED high beam due to the complexity of them. If anyone knows otherwise please share how you did it as I would like to know how too. I have simple fuse block from Nippy Normans that takes power direct from the battery and is switched by the accessory loom signal to enable me to run my accessories.

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ncx19

Just wired my spots today.  Finding the high beam wire at the LED headlight was more digging than I wanted to get into.  In my mind it was going to be just find the connector easily, and it wasnt.  Probed with my piercing prod, and located the high beam switch lead fairly easily after following the cable down about where I wanted to tap in.

Took over an hour to setup, but working as I expected, and no issues using high beam switch lead to trigger the relay I added.

 

If you have a separate handlebar switch you want to control your spots - then this isnt necessary.

 

Ditto for ones you want on all the time, eg fogs or low beams for visibility. In that case, I'd suggest using the Honda accessory fusebox relay and extension cable. The relay is only activated when the key is on.  Mine is still on backorder, but will be adding for other accessories.

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domints
On 16.08.2019 at 21:03, ncx19 said:

Just wired my spots today.  Finding the high beam wire at the LED headlight was more digging than I wanted to get into.  In my mind it was going to be just find the connector easily, and it wasnt.  Probed with my piercing prod, and located the high beam switch lead fairly easily after following the cable down about where I wanted to tap in.

Took over an hour to setup, but working as I expected, and no issues using high beam switch lead to trigger the relay I added.

 

If you have a separate handlebar switch you want to control your spots - then this isnt necessary.

 

Ditto for ones you want on all the time, eg fogs or low beams for visibility. In that case, I'd suggest using the Honda accessory fusebox relay and extension cable. The relay is only activated when the key is on.  Mine is still on backorder, but will be adding for other accessories.

Used relay on LED high beam trigger signal? Don't think that's possible and for sure not safe.
1. Trigger signal works with 5V level, so putting in relay that is wired to 12V might put that 12V to the trigger pin of LED controller and that's risky.
2. Even if you use 5V relay and power it with 5V, when relay turns off it creates high voltage reverse spike which might kill any electronics connected to it if not secured enough.

Wouldn't do that, unless you were lucky to find some place where it's 12V switched (but I don't think you would).

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baben
42 minutes ago, domints said:

Used relay on LED high beam trigger signal? Don't think that's possible and for sure not safe.
1. Trigger signal works with 5V level, so putting in relay that is wired to 12V might put that 12V to the trigger pin of LED controller and that's risky.
2. Even if you use 5V relay and power it with 5V, when relay turns off it creates high voltage reverse spike which might kill any electronics connected to it if not secured enough.

Wouldn't do that, unless you were lucky to find some place where it's 12V switched (but I don't think you would).

The auxilliary lights fitted to my Versys (Motopro) come with a relay that is indeed triggered by the high beam - they tell you to do it that way. Weirdly there is also an on off switch which seems to be wired into the same pin. This means I can turn the lights off while still using high beam. I am not clear why you would want to do that or how it all works - the relay has just failed though so that might indicate something?

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DaveM59

The instructions probably assume you have a 12V lamp not 5V. If you are triggering the relay from only a 5V tapping then maybe the coil isn't sufficiently energised to really snap the switch contacts firmly closed, allowing a little buzzing and eventually burning them out.

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domints
5 hours ago, baben said:

The auxilliary lights fitted to my Versys (Motopro) come with a relay that is indeed triggered by the high beam - they tell you to do it that way. Weirdly there is also an on off switch which seems to be wired into the same pin. This means I can turn the lights off while still using high beam. I am not clear why you would want to do that or how it all works - the relay has just failed though so that might indicate something?

On the Versys it might be fine - It might either not have LED light, so ordinary 12V circuit or Kawasaki didn't use 5V TTL signals to drive high beam, which really would be understandable. There are plenty of lights that come with an instruction that says to tap into high beam signal, but they won't work with NC, not triggered by high beam.

@DaveM59 I can't see how relay would be failing. Moreover, if you put it like you'd normally do - between negative and high beam signal 1) 5V is not enough to energise 12V coil at all, 2) this 5V is via pull-up resistor, very likely high value and 3) if it would work at all, it would work the opposite way - the signal is 5V when high beam is off and 0V when on.
Moreover, because this pull-up is high value, attaching relay coil between high beam signal and negative (or ground, or 0V or chassis, whatever you'd call it) would pull that signal down and make original high beam light on all the time.

Of course this might, but doesn't have to apply to any other bike than NC. This is what I measured in NC, but other manufacturers and other models (for example Africa Twin) might have it done completely different way, including ordinary 12V high beam signal like in ordinary halogen bulb headlamp.

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baben

So far as I can see the Kawasaki has the most basic of everything! This makes it cheap -  and pretty reliable - I hope.

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