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Ciaran1602

Things to get checked out or...

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SteveThackery
1 hour ago, Ciaran1602 said:

 

Your gearchange technique worked wonders, thank you greatly. 

 

 

Good, I'm pleased.  See how you go - if you have any residual concerns, it's still worth getting one of the mechanics to test ride it next time you're there.  It's still possible you have a hidden fault, such as the selector drum detent spring broken.  Using the "old fashioned" gear change technique I described greatly improves the reliability of gear changes on any bike, including those with a broken detent spring.  A second opinion won't hurt.

I haven't heard of a detent spring breaking on an NC, so I suspect the only thing wrong was your technique, which is not implying criticism - nobody is born knowing this stuff.

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suffolk58

It looks like we've just about got the definitive answer....oh the powers of this forum.

Just to repeat a couple of bits of excellent advice already provided:

Earplugs are an excellent aid to preventing worrying mechanical noises.

Boots (not the chemist) play a big part in smooth gear changing.

I've been riding the Bandit a bit recently. Normally it has a lovely smooth gear change, but last week I missed a couple of gears.

Now it's back to perfect again. The reason, it was wet last week and I wore the old clunky winter boots. Now back to the RST summer boots.

  • Haha 1

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Ciaran1602
2 minutes ago, suffolk58 said:

It looks like we've just about got the definitive answer....oh the powers of this forum.

Just to repeat a couple of bits of excellent advice already provided:

Earplugs are an excellent aid to preventing worrying mechanical noises.

Boots (not the chemist) play a big part in smooth gear changing.

I've been riding the Bandit a bit recently. Normally it has a lovely smooth gear change, but last week I missed a couple of gears.

Now it's back to perfect again. The reason, it was wet last week and I wore the old clunky winter boots. Now back to the RST summer boots.

 

Thinking about I wonder whether these are related points. My boots are somewhat loose, mainly cause I utterly hate anything too tight on my feet. Perhaps I’m not able to exert the right amount of force on the upshift? Downshifts work perfectly fine and they would cause I’m pressing against the floor of the boot to do it. Couple on shoddy clutch technique; the ‘jumping’ Issue May simply be it was never properly in gear in the first place. 

 

As for the DCT, I’m still happier with the manual and far happier with the bike in general, don’t flog the horse :lol:

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Chriswright03

You seem to have tried what Steve suggested and found it works.  So don't overthink it just do what you are doing now and if that has solved it great if not talk to the dealers.  It pays to be firm and positive with all things mechanical.

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embee

I haven't ridden a manual NC, but on other bikes I find sometimes a technique of changing up which works is to use only about half the clutch lever travel, don't close the throttle fully so that the engine speed stays up a bit, and try to do the shift effectively at the same time, halfway towards a clutchless shift if you like. It's probably not a technique best used for downshifts though.

If you pull the clutch in, pause while the engine slows down (too much), then move the gear lever the speeds of the gears will not match and can sometimes inhibit the dogs from engaging, the nearer the right speeds you can have the shafts the easier they go in. Letting the engine slow too much during an upshift is the most common thing.

Holding the gear lever raised while you release the clutch seems to be working for you now, and it is indicative of possibly a speed synchronisation thing.

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