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DelBoy

Clutch Plate replacement

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DelBoy

Hi All,

 

Unfortunately the clutch has started slipping again at 45,000 miles on my 2014 NC750X, I say again as this is the third clutch that it has had.

 

The last one lasted just 2,000 miles :shocked:

 

I therefore have 2 options

1). Get  a set of genuine Honda clutch plates fitted by the dealer £££££

2). Replace them myself with aftermarket ones (EBC).

 

I favour option 2 as I have no faith in the quality of the OEM parts, I think making new ones out of cardboard would be an upgrade.

 

My question is, has anyone here replaced the plates for themselves and is a special clutch tool required to do this.

 

Also any recommendations for new friction plated would be welcome.

Regards


Delboy

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Tonyj

You surely must have a problem. 2k on a clutch isn’t right . Is it the oil or plates or springs or all three?

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Chris750

You'll need the clutch centre holder but as Tonyj says there must bit a problem elsewhere, I've just replaced a clutch and springs on an NC S that has done115k on the original, hard miles too. The plates were just on the wear limit so suspect the springs were weak.

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Tex

I seem to remember something about someone getting through clutches, but can’t remember if it was you, Del?

 

Definitely not right. If the current clutch has used Honda parts (fitted by a Honda dealer) I would expect some sort of warranty. How long ago were the plates fitted? If it’s under 12 months I would contact the dealer concerned. 

 

Good luck.

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trisaki

What oil are you  using  , must always have freeplay at the lever , say 2-3mm 

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embee

Yep, the oil should be compatible with wet clutch use, indicated by the approval to JASO-MA or MA2 on the oil can label. Car oils have friction modifiers which can result in clutch slip.

 

Is the cable free and smooth? They can rub where they exit the bracket on the engine case if it isn't perfectly aligned, then frayed strands can make it bind and hold the clutch slightly loaded promoting slip. The fix is a new cable and bend the bracket slightly so the cable runs straight to the engine end lever.

 

I've heard of certain aftermarket clutch friction plates breaking up, resulting in all sorts of grief. There's nothing fundamentally wrong with Honda OE plates. Most of the plates are common with the Deauville, I'm just about to replace the plates in a friend's Deau which has done 130k kms because he wants it to be good for another 100k without worries.

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DelBoy
Posted (edited)
8 hours ago, Tonyj said:

You surely must have a problem. 2k on a clutch isn’t right . Is it the oil or plates or springs or all three?

Sorry, that should have read 20,000 miles, still not right though.

 

Not the oil, Springs should be ok, must be the friction plates.

Edited by DelBoy
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DelBoy
Posted (edited)
7 hours ago, trisaki said:

What oil are you  using  , must always have freeplay at the lever , say 2-3mm 

Always been serviced by the Honda dealer, so the correct oil is being used (Castrol GPS 10/30, although one ti,e they used Silkelene 10/40 semi). also there is no problem with the cable/ free play.

 

Interestingly I noticed that the part number for the Friction plates has now changed !

Think I will have to call Mr Honda regarding this.

 

I also had a word with the service guys at the dealership and they said that they think that there was an issue with the clutch on early NC750s, like mine

 

 

8 hours ago, Chris750 said:

You'll need the clutch centre holder but as Tonyj says there must bit a problem elsewhere, I've just replaced a clutch and springs on an NC S that has done115k on the original, hard miles too. The plates were just on the wear limit so suspect the springs were weak.

What year is yours ?

Edited by DelBoy
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tw586

I have had issues with my 17 750x the clutch drive drum in not true to the g/box input shaft and I have a slip/grab action on slow take off and manoeuvring at low speeds. this will wear out the clutch early.  

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Chris750
8 hours ago, DelBoy said:

Always been serviced by the Honda dealer, so the correct oil is being used (Castrol GPS 10/30, although one ti,e they used Silkelene 10/40 semi). also there is no problem with the cable/ free play.

 

Interestingly I noticed that the part number for the Friction plates has now changed !

Think I will have to call Mr Honda regarding this.

 

I also had a word with the service guys at the dealership and they said that they think that there was an issue with the clutch on early NC750s, like mine

 

 

What year is yours ?

2014, it was a training bike I bought.

 

 

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embee

Just an extra bit of info which might be of use.

I and my friend have used https://nutjob.ie/ for some stuff. Register with them and they send out discount codes, often 25%, off list prices. They vary but sometimes their prices can be very competitive for genuine parts. Sometimes they are not competitive, suck it and see.

Their parts listings don't always show all the bits in a particular section, but usually if you find the part number and enter it in the search box it will come up if it is common with another model, and some of the Deauville clutch plates were like this. Order by part number.

I usually find the part numbers from https://www.bike-parts-honda.com/ which also allows a comparison of list prices. If you click on the part number in that site it will show a list of other bikes which use the part, though if it is a very common item it won't be an exhaustive list.

A full set of friction and plain plates for the 700 Deau, plus a few odd bits like thrust washers etc, came to something like Eu140 with discount. You may be able to get away with not replacing plain plates but my view is if you're going to all the trouble of replacing the rest another Eu40 or something for the plain ones is a no-brainer.

 

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Andy m

20k makes a less shocking read! 

 

I think I'd go with DIY and AM plates. You are going to look at every part as it comes out and stop if anything isn't right. The dealer is under pressure to finish same day, so if a spring looks a bit scruffy he'll put it back where you'd be back to the parts website. 

 

Andy

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Tex
Posted (edited)

 

Quote

 

The dealer is under pressure to finish same day, so if a spring looks a bit scruffy he'll put it back where you'd be back to the parts website. 

 

And getting the bus to work.. ;) 

 

 

Edited by Tex
F***ing predictive text..

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embee
1 hour ago, Andy m said:

…..so if a spring looks a bit scruffy he'll put it back where you'd be back to the parts website. 

 

Andy

Personally I'd change springs anyway.

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Andy m

I haven't looked at the price or manual. If they are three kidneys and a top five born child a set, with dimensions to check against published in the book I'd reuse if OK. If they cost less than the postage, change them. 

 

On the CL I'm finding gaskets re-used. I mean, FFS, if you are going to bodge, at least use cornflake box and bathroom sealant. 

 

Andy

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embee

Nutjob list the springs at Eu4.8 each, so if you get 25% off and 4 springs that comes in at around £13 a set. Not sure about p&p etc, but it's the ballpark. YMMV

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Tonyj

probably is a part that was reused or was on its way out . the tolerances will be given but if its open then plan to renew the lot thats my viewpoint.

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Chris750

..........and you'll need some Hondabond!

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DelBoy
21 hours ago, Andy m said:

20k makes a less shocking read! 

 

I think I'd go with DIY and AM plates. You are going to look at every part as it comes out and stop if anything isn't right. The dealer is under pressure to finish same day, so if a spring looks a bit scruffy he'll put it back where you'd be back to the parts website. 

 

Andy

I plan to do it myself using AM parts as I have no confidence in the OEM plates.

 

As the part number for the 6 main friction plates have now changed from 22201MEW920 to 22201MFFD00 the part numbers for the 3 types of plates are now identical to the NC700,

Honda obviously realise that there was a problem and reverted back to the MC700 plates, although I doubt I would be able to get them to admit this, although I will ask them about it. Be interesting to see what they say.

 

I may as well change the springs too as they are only £16 for the 4 and also the lock nut & washers £13. Have sourced a Clutch tool and some Hondabond,

 

Still going to cost me circa £100 to do a job that shouldn't have been required for another 70k IMHO though

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embee

Getting the nut off is usually most easily achieved with an impact tool, pneumatic or electric. Last time I helped a friend do a 650 Deauville we leant on a bar for a bit with no joy, and he then used an electric impact driver and it spun off immediately. Maybe others with direct experience can advise (Trisaki?).

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embee

Just got an email from Nutjob, and their latest offer is 30% off list. Just a heads up.

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