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32k Service


JamesS

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Hi all, I searched but couldn't find this already covered elsewhere, so - I need to get my 32k service done. Is it a 'big' one, and any idea how much it should cost? Thanks.

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Rocker66
22 minutes ago, JamesS said:

Hi all, I searched but couldn't find this already covered elsewhere, so - I need to get my 32k service done. Is it a 'big' one, and any idea how much it should cost? Thanks.

Probably best to get a quote from your local dealer or better still a couple or more dealers if you have them a reasonable distance from you as charges can very from one to another.

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trisaki
12 hours ago, JamesS said:

Hi all, I searched but couldn't find this already covered elsewhere, so - I need to get my 32k service done. Is it a 'big' one, and any idea how much it should cost? Thanks.

Shame you aren't close to west Sussex otherwise I would do it in my wshop  , coolant,  valves , -  plugs ? ,  , all depends how thorough dealer is ,  whether he does valves is debatable  

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Scootabout

Dobles (Coulsden) usually charges about £400 for a major service. But since my NC is now 6.5 years old, I might get it done at my local tyre shop that also does servicing...

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  • 1 month later...

Thanks for your feedback guys. All quotes for 32k were around £420 to £450. Most previous services were about £150 so it seems a big jump to me. Is this consistent with what others have had to pay? Why do you think it hikes up so high - I was wondering if they really want the business or are trying to push us into trading in? In the end I found one for £360, but I'm really hoping it drops to £150 again at the 40k service. Anyone know?

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Rocker66
26 minutes ago, JamesS said:

Thanks for your feedback guys. All quotes for 32k were around £420 to £450. Most previous services were about £150 so it seems a big jump to me. Is this consistent with what others have had to pay? Why do you think it hikes up so high - I was wondering if they really want the business or are trying to push us into trading in? In the end I found one for £360, but I'm really hoping it drops to £150 again at the 40k service. Anyone know?

Not sure but I think the 32k service includes the valve check/adjustment. Your service book will tell you. If I’m correct this will explain the higher price.

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32k has the most replacement items on it, but the only real extra is the spark plugs, which are pretty pricey items from the dealer at about £60.  Also get a new Clutch Oil Filter if you have an Automatic.  I presume you have had a Valve Clearance inspection done prior to now.

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In reality the spark plugs should be good for a lot more than 32k miles. Precious metal iridium plugs as used standard fit in the NC engine would comfortably do 60k miles in a car engine, that was part of the reason for developing them in the first place (plus the benefits in combustion).

You can get the NGK IFR6G-11 plugs yourself for around £14 each from the likes of https://www.gsparkplug.com/1x-ngk-iridium-spark-plug-ifr6g-11k-ifr6g11k-1314.html  or https://www.sparkplugs.co.uk/ngk-spark-plug-ifr6g-11k

Beware of getting them from auction site sellers, there are plenty of fake KGK/Denso plugs around. I use the above sites for most of my plugs. If you supply the plugs for them to fit, make sure you get the old ones back (if you get my drift).

 

Honda air filters are quite pricey too. Your view on using OE filters may vary, personally I use OE items rather than aftermarket, I watch the auction site for OE items and buy them as they come up, I've had 2 OE Honda air filters for less than £20 each, I change them at around 25k miles (I do all my own servicing). List price is the wrong side of £30 I think.

 

32K mls service will list valve clearance check for all models. It's not a ridiculously long process (though longer for an Integra due to bodywork), but means draining coolant (and thus change) and I'd guess would be timed at 1.5hrs or similar. Whether the dealer actually does it is another topic. It's something even a modest DIY owner can do themselves, it really depends on what your approach is to servicing. For a high mileage bike (as 32k will be considered!) a full stamped service record probably makes very little difference to value, so if you can DIY then go for it. YouTube vids are available for most things.

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motorbykcourier

Have you spoken to Paul at MoreMoto in Gislingham - not a million miles from you

Not sure of his latest prices though, but worth a chat

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4 hours ago, embee said:

In reality the spark plugs should be good for a lot more than 32k miles. 

 

What he said, mine have done 68k

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Thanks for the tip about MoreMoto. I hadn't even heard of them, but they seem to get really good reviews. Will check them out.

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I use More Moto. In fact I won't use anyone else. Paul the owner is an enthusiastic perfectionist and will do a really thorough job, even checking stuff that is not on the schedule. He will not do a rushed job and he may or may not be cheaper than a main dealer (probably cheaper cos his hourly rate is lower than a main dealer) but the job will be done well. He does not provide a loan bike though so you need a means of getting there and back - SWMBO is my taxi person.  Gislingham is not far from Diss and there are a number of very nice cafes in the area.

Paul has customers who regularly come out from London for him to do work on their bikes and he does a lot of race prepping so if you want to give him a challenge, ask him to tune your NC! He also races Street Triples and has a fine selection in his front office to admire.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've checked mine a few times while I've been in there doing other things for various reasons (once the rad is out you may as well spend another 15mins checking the clearances).

I can't recall what specific changes I've done, I'm not so anal as to record the before and after in the service book (just do it, done, move on) but I can say for definite that I've not found any to have tightened up, they've always been towards the slack direction but then only minimal amounts.

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Dunnster

Checked mine at 16k 24k and will be checking again in a few weeks at 32k.

Exhaust were both tight at 16k, so reset to spec.

Intake and exhaust in spec at 24k I'm expecting them both to be still ok at 32k. Probably won't check again until 48k and like Embee said, it's easy enough to do if it needs checking and not time consuming.

 

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  • 8 months later...

i know it's a while since your last post on this subject but I am just checking my valves at 16,000 and wanted confirmation on which cylinder is one and which is two. Setting the crank and cam markings at "1" and the right hand valves are "loose" (from the rider's seat) this seems odd as cylinders normally go left to right, i.e. 1 2 3 4. ? Am I being stupid ?

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Dunnster
4 hours ago, Rick said:

i know it's a while since your last post on this subject but I am just checking my valves at 16,000 and wanted confirmation on which cylinder is one and which is two. Setting the crank and cam markings at "1" and the right hand valves are "loose" (from the rider's seat) this seems odd as cylinders normally go left to right, i.e. 1 2 3 4. ? Am I being stupid ?

 

Cylinder one is the clutch lever side and cylinder 2 is throttle side ...

Edited by Dunnster
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That's what I would have thought, and the plug leads are marked that way. So, why do my valves appear to be the wrong way round ?. I am really puzzled. Someone else has mentioned that he set his valves with the cam markings pointing down instead  of up ?. I  had better go and take another look and see if I am missing something ?

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Dunnster
7 minutes ago, Rick said:

That's what I would have thought, and the plug leads are marked that way. So, why do my valves appear to be the wrong way round ?. I am really puzzled. Someone else has mentioned that he set his valves with the cam markings pointing down instead  of up ?. I  had better go and take another look and see if I am missing something ?

Yes, check mine with the cam markings pointing down, also, take into account that it takes 2 full revolutions of the flywheel for both cylinders to complete 1 full sequence.

 

Edited by Dunnster
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Thanks for your advice Dunnster, time for another try.

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Dunnster, I have re-set the tappets using the lower cylinder head index line aligned with cam mark "1" and "2",  and after reassembly the bike sounds perfect. I have made a note in the manual for future reference, thanks again.

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Dunnster
48 minutes ago, Rick said:

Dunnster, I have re-set the tappets using the lower cylinder head index line aligned with cam mark "1" and "2",  and after reassembly the bike sounds perfect. I have made a note in the manual for future reference, thanks again.

 

I have an original version of the Honda Manual which incorrectly states to align the marks to the 'top notch' where it should read 'bottom notch'. Not sure if it has been corrected since? A few members on here and elsewhere realised the printing error when attempting to adjust the tappets and encountered the head scratching, self doubt you had.

 

Glad you've now got your bike sounding perfect. :niceone:

 

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