JamesS 71 Posted November 30, 2019 Share Posted November 30, 2019 Hi all, I searched but couldn't find this already covered elsewhere, so - I need to get my 32k service done. Is it a 'big' one, and any idea how much it should cost? Thanks. Link to post
Rocker66 34,096 Posted November 30, 2019 Share Posted November 30, 2019 22 minutes ago, JamesS said: Hi all, I searched but couldn't find this already covered elsewhere, so - I need to get my 32k service done. Is it a 'big' one, and any idea how much it should cost? Thanks. Probably best to get a quote from your local dealer or better still a couple or more dealers if you have them a reasonable distance from you as charges can very from one to another. 2 Link to post
trisaki 2,029 Posted December 1, 2019 Share Posted December 1, 2019 12 hours ago, JamesS said: Hi all, I searched but couldn't find this already covered elsewhere, so - I need to get my 32k service done. Is it a 'big' one, and any idea how much it should cost? Thanks. Shame you aren't close to west Sussex otherwise I would do it in my wshop , coolant, valves , - plugs ? , , all depends how thorough dealer is , whether he does valves is debatable 1 Link to post
Scootabout 2,190 Posted December 1, 2019 Share Posted December 1, 2019 Dobles (Coulsden) usually charges about £400 for a major service. But since my NC is now 6.5 years old, I might get it done at my local tyre shop that also does servicing... Link to post
JamesS 71 Posted January 19, 2020 Author Share Posted January 19, 2020 Thanks for your feedback guys. All quotes for 32k were around £420 to £450. Most previous services were about £150 so it seems a big jump to me. Is this consistent with what others have had to pay? Why do you think it hikes up so high - I was wondering if they really want the business or are trying to push us into trading in? In the end I found one for £360, but I'm really hoping it drops to £150 again at the 40k service. Anyone know? Link to post
Rocker66 34,096 Posted January 19, 2020 Share Posted January 19, 2020 26 minutes ago, JamesS said: Thanks for your feedback guys. All quotes for 32k were around £420 to £450. Most previous services were about £150 so it seems a big jump to me. Is this consistent with what others have had to pay? Why do you think it hikes up so high - I was wondering if they really want the business or are trying to push us into trading in? In the end I found one for £360, but I'm really hoping it drops to £150 again at the 40k service. Anyone know? Not sure but I think the 32k service includes the valve check/adjustment. Your service book will tell you. If I’m correct this will explain the higher price. Link to post
shiggsy 527 Posted January 19, 2020 Share Posted January 19, 2020 32k has the most replacement items on it, but the only real extra is the spark plugs, which are pretty pricey items from the dealer at about £60. Also get a new Clutch Oil Filter if you have an Automatic. I presume you have had a Valve Clearance inspection done prior to now. Link to post
embee 7,288 Posted January 20, 2020 Share Posted January 20, 2020 In reality the spark plugs should be good for a lot more than 32k miles. Precious metal iridium plugs as used standard fit in the NC engine would comfortably do 60k miles in a car engine, that was part of the reason for developing them in the first place (plus the benefits in combustion). You can get the NGK IFR6G-11 plugs yourself for around £14 each from the likes of https://www.gsparkplug.com/1x-ngk-iridium-spark-plug-ifr6g-11k-ifr6g11k-1314.html or https://www.sparkplugs.co.uk/ngk-spark-plug-ifr6g-11k Beware of getting them from auction site sellers, there are plenty of fake KGK/Denso plugs around. I use the above sites for most of my plugs. If you supply the plugs for them to fit, make sure you get the old ones back (if you get my drift). Honda air filters are quite pricey too. Your view on using OE filters may vary, personally I use OE items rather than aftermarket, I watch the auction site for OE items and buy them as they come up, I've had 2 OE Honda air filters for less than £20 each, I change them at around 25k miles (I do all my own servicing). List price is the wrong side of £30 I think. 32K mls service will list valve clearance check for all models. It's not a ridiculously long process (though longer for an Integra due to bodywork), but means draining coolant (and thus change) and I'd guess would be timed at 1.5hrs or similar. Whether the dealer actually does it is another topic. It's something even a modest DIY owner can do themselves, it really depends on what your approach is to servicing. For a high mileage bike (as 32k will be considered!) a full stamped service record probably makes very little difference to value, so if you can DIY then go for it. YouTube vids are available for most things. 5 Link to post
JamesS 71 Posted January 20, 2020 Author Share Posted January 20, 2020 Really useful feedback guys, thanks. Link to post
motorbykcourier 293 Posted January 20, 2020 Share Posted January 20, 2020 Have you spoken to Paul at MoreMoto in Gislingham - not a million miles from you Not sure of his latest prices though, but worth a chat Link to post
shiggsy 527 Posted January 20, 2020 Share Posted January 20, 2020 4 hours ago, embee said: In reality the spark plugs should be good for a lot more than 32k miles. What he said, mine have done 68k 1 Link to post
JamesS 71 Posted January 21, 2020 Author Share Posted January 21, 2020 Thanks for the tip about MoreMoto. I hadn't even heard of them, but they seem to get really good reviews. Will check them out. Link to post
baben 11,640 Posted January 21, 2020 Share Posted January 21, 2020 I use More Moto. In fact I won't use anyone else. Paul the owner is an enthusiastic perfectionist and will do a really thorough job, even checking stuff that is not on the schedule. He will not do a rushed job and he may or may not be cheaper than a main dealer (probably cheaper cos his hourly rate is lower than a main dealer) but the job will be done well. He does not provide a loan bike though so you need a means of getting there and back - SWMBO is my taxi person. Gislingham is not far from Diss and there are a number of very nice cafes in the area. Paul has customers who regularly come out from London for him to do work on their bikes and he does a lot of race prepping so if you want to give him a challenge, ask him to tune your NC! He also races Street Triples and has a fine selection in his front office to admire. Link to post
Wierpig 29 Posted February 2, 2020 Share Posted February 2, 2020 Anyone done the valve clearances and can comment on whether they were tight or loose at 32k? Link to post
embee 7,288 Posted February 2, 2020 Share Posted February 2, 2020 I've checked mine a few times while I've been in there doing other things for various reasons (once the rad is out you may as well spend another 15mins checking the clearances). I can't recall what specific changes I've done, I'm not so anal as to record the before and after in the service book (just do it, done, move on) but I can say for definite that I've not found any to have tightened up, they've always been towards the slack direction but then only minimal amounts. Link to post
Dunnster 1,650 Posted February 2, 2020 Share Posted February 2, 2020 Checked mine at 16k 24k and will be checking again in a few weeks at 32k. Exhaust were both tight at 16k, so reset to spec. Intake and exhaust in spec at 24k I'm expecting them both to be still ok at 32k. Probably won't check again until 48k and like Embee said, it's easy enough to do if it needs checking and not time consuming. 1 Link to post
Rick 236 Posted October 9, 2020 Share Posted October 9, 2020 i know it's a while since your last post on this subject but I am just checking my valves at 16,000 and wanted confirmation on which cylinder is one and which is two. Setting the crank and cam markings at "1" and the right hand valves are "loose" (from the rider's seat) this seems odd as cylinders normally go left to right, i.e. 1 2 3 4. ? Am I being stupid ? Link to post
Dunnster 1,650 Posted October 9, 2020 Share Posted October 9, 2020 (edited) 4 hours ago, Rick said: i know it's a while since your last post on this subject but I am just checking my valves at 16,000 and wanted confirmation on which cylinder is one and which is two. Setting the crank and cam markings at "1" and the right hand valves are "loose" (from the rider's seat) this seems odd as cylinders normally go left to right, i.e. 1 2 3 4. ? Am I being stupid ? Cylinder one is the clutch lever side and cylinder 2 is throttle side ... Edited October 9, 2020 by Dunnster 1 Link to post
Rick 236 Posted October 9, 2020 Share Posted October 9, 2020 That's what I would have thought, and the plug leads are marked that way. So, why do my valves appear to be the wrong way round ?. I am really puzzled. Someone else has mentioned that he set his valves with the cam markings pointing down instead of up ?. I had better go and take another look and see if I am missing something ? Link to post
Dunnster 1,650 Posted October 9, 2020 Share Posted October 9, 2020 (edited) 7 minutes ago, Rick said: That's what I would have thought, and the plug leads are marked that way. So, why do my valves appear to be the wrong way round ?. I am really puzzled. Someone else has mentioned that he set his valves with the cam markings pointing down instead of up ?. I had better go and take another look and see if I am missing something ? Yes, check mine with the cam markings pointing down, also, take into account that it takes 2 full revolutions of the flywheel for both cylinders to complete 1 full sequence. Edited October 9, 2020 by Dunnster 1 Link to post
Rick 236 Posted October 9, 2020 Share Posted October 9, 2020 Thanks for your advice Dunnster, time for another try. 1 Link to post
Rick 236 Posted October 10, 2020 Share Posted October 10, 2020 Dunnster, I have re-set the tappets using the lower cylinder head index line aligned with cam mark "1" and "2", and after reassembly the bike sounds perfect. I have made a note in the manual for future reference, thanks again. 2 Link to post
Dunnster 1,650 Posted October 10, 2020 Share Posted October 10, 2020 48 minutes ago, Rick said: Dunnster, I have re-set the tappets using the lower cylinder head index line aligned with cam mark "1" and "2", and after reassembly the bike sounds perfect. I have made a note in the manual for future reference, thanks again. I have an original version of the Honda Manual which incorrectly states to align the marks to the 'top notch' where it should read 'bottom notch'. Not sure if it has been corrected since? A few members on here and elsewhere realised the printing error when attempting to adjust the tappets and encountered the head scratching, self doubt you had. Glad you've now got your bike sounding perfect. Link to post
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