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Clutch dragging when hot NC750X 2016


Mrkitty2

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Hi everyone, I’ve searched the forums and found others with this problem but not why it’s happening, or a total fix. I’ve an NC750XAG, 2016. 14k on the clock, I’m the second owner. Gear changes are very notchy/hard when the bike is hot, around town, improves after a canter down the motorway back home. I’m running Castrol 1 10W30. I’ve adjusted endlessly at the lever end, straightened up the cable holder at the engine end. I took the cover off this afternoon, undid the bolts holding the springs, plates were a little tricky to separate and to my eye, some of the  the “cogs” of the fibre plates, where they meet the basket looked a little dark brown. Couldn’t see any notching of the basket. I’ve got some new steels, (thinking they might be warped) and now I’m thinking I need new fibre plates too. Question: which fibre plates to buy? The only 2016’s I can find are Honda OEM. Will an earlier year fit? If so, EBC? Shall I do the springs too? Will a clutch holding tool for an earlier year fit? Anything else? Many thanks in advance, and thanks for a great forum.

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Silly question. Has it got standard levers or has someone put aftermarket levers on?

I've come across a similar issue when cranked levers have been fitted on a bike which reduces the available travel.

 

If you click on a part number in the listings here it will show other bikes which the part is used on. The listing is not exhaustive, but gives a good idea.

https://www.bike-parts-honda.com/honda-motorcycle/750-MOTO/NC/2016/NC750XAG/Engine/CLUTCH-NC750X-XA-/78561/E_08/1/19464

Edited by embee
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when you have it all apart inspect the inner drive hub for run out, it its not true to the gearbox input shaft it will cause dragging and a slight gear surge type noise when maneuvering and slipping the clutch in first gear. 

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Thanks both. I believe it has the standard (on this model) dogleg clutch lever... Hmmm, check the run out, I’ll google that. Not aware of any noises that you describe though.

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trisaki

I've had bikes in my wshop that have had horrible gear changes,  turns out the drive chain  have been bow tight , aswell as making the rear shock unable to do its job of going up and down  properly 

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Hi Trisaki, the chain is fine, apart from being a bit long in the tooth. I just went into London and back on the NC (80 mile round trip) and during the journey gave the clutch a bit of deliberate slipping now and then... weirdly it totally improved the gear change and ability to find neutral. Perhaps the bike sat in the dealer’s for too long without use? I work as a courier and I have 194,000 mile CBF600SA, (181,000 ridden by me) and I put a new clutch in her at about 120,000 miles to be on the safe side... I put one in my old VFR because it was graunching and a bit grabby when I bought it. I’ve never ever had trouble with clutches on any of my bikes, except the V7 Racer, which could get notchy. I’ve found a lot of posts about manual clutch troubles on the NC’s... seems odd. Thanks for your input! 

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