KingJames 1,262 Posted April 1, 2020 Share Posted April 1, 2020 So I have a new farkle. It is one of those wheel huggers that covers a bit of the back wheel (attempt to stop my top box and under seat getting splattered). I have to undo one of the wheel nuts which I've never done before. Anyone got any advice on doing it so that the wheel still points in the same direction (accurately) and the chain is still correctly tensioned? The NM setting for the torque wrench would be handy too. Link to post
Tex 36,817 Posted April 2, 2020 Share Posted April 2, 2020 (edited) Can you post a photo of what you’re trying to accomplish please? One wheel nut? Do you mean the large nut (17) on the end of the wheel spindle? (3) Edited April 2, 2020 by Tex 1 Link to post
Andy m 23,507 Posted April 2, 2020 Share Posted April 2, 2020 Are we talking the big nyloc on the end of the rear axle? Item 17. Measure the length of thread showing each side on the adjusters. Don't remove the nuts on these. Remove the big nyloc, do what you need to do and replace. Check the length of thread on the adjusters, chances are nothing moved. Don't worry about the torque. It's a nyloc with grease in the thread. It hasn't been torqued to any sort of spec since it left the factory and an uncalibrated workshop wrench won't change that. Put your fingers on the end of a normal length ring spanner and pull until it won't move anymore. Andy 1 Link to post
Tex 36,817 Posted April 2, 2020 Share Posted April 2, 2020 And if you’re going to put something under the nut, for God’s sake make sure you have sufficient threads protruding from the nut when everything is tightened up again. 2 Link to post
KingJames 1,262 Posted April 2, 2020 Author Share Posted April 2, 2020 17 it is I think. Thank you both. Will go eye ball it all in light of your advice, swear at it a bit to intimidate the wheel and return to the computer with the intention of cracking on when the walls have closed in enough. Can see this being a two day job this weekend. 1 Link to post
Andy m 23,507 Posted April 2, 2020 Share Posted April 2, 2020 Two days! I'm glad I aren't paying your labour changes 😁 Getting the nut off be careful. You want a ring spanner that fits, not some leftover Whitworth thing or a plumbers adjustable. You are going to be pushing down which will lift the bike off a side stand. A workshop stand is way better. If the stand flips up and you only have hold of the spanner you will be learning more about removing panels and mirrors in the near future. Put the spanner on the nut, stand up, support the bike and push down on the spanner with your foot just until it moves a couple of flats, then resume normal working. If anything moves other than the nut you forget the spanner and secure it. Apologies if this seems very basic but I hope it's worth mentioning. I know a young lady who is missing two fingers after working out that chain lube will spread very evenly if the engine is running and in gear on the centre stand. She made a possibly valid point afterwards that while now b****y obvious, no one had mentioned this was poor technique. Good luck Andy 4 Link to post
Tex 36,817 Posted April 2, 2020 Share Posted April 2, 2020 17 minutes ago, Andy m said: Apologies if this seems very basic but I hope it's worth mentioning. It’s always tricky for those who are familiar with a task to give advice to those who aren’t. Do you spell it out in great detail and risk coming across as patronising? Or do you assume a degree of, er, experience on the part of the questioner and risk them cocking it up (and secretly blaming you! )? I’m the same when I ask computer questions, mind. I need the answers spelling out as you would to a retarded chimp.. 1 Link to post
Grumpy old man 4,673 Posted April 2, 2020 Share Posted April 2, 2020 4 minutes ago, Tex said: It’s always tricky for those who are familiar with a task to give advice to those who aren’t. Do you spell it out in great detail and risk coming across as patronising? Or do you assume a degree of, er, experience on the part of the questioner and risk them cocking it up (and secretly blaming you! )? I’m the same when I ask computer questions, mind. I need the answers spelling out as you would to a retarded chimp.. Going by the OP post he/she is a relative newbie but sounds da like a brave one. I'm intrigued as to what sort of hugger it is that you have to undo the wheel spindle nut🤔. Is it perhaps the sort that extends towards the rear of the wheel, if so please let us know how it performs. And good luck. Link to post
KingJames 1,262 Posted April 2, 2020 Author Share Posted April 2, 2020 My experience is an odd set, I do my own brake pads, not shy of getting stuck in but when it comes to wheels I have little experience. Thanks all, tips are what I'm after. The two days is to keep me busy (or maybe I've forecasting the spill, hope not). And yes GOM it is. 1 1 Link to post
KingJames 1,262 Posted April 2, 2020 Author Share Posted April 2, 2020 10 hours ago, Tex said: Can you post a photo of what you’re trying to accomplish please? One wheel nut? Do you mean the large nut (17) on the end of the wheel spindle? (3) 2 Link to post
Tex 36,817 Posted April 2, 2020 Share Posted April 2, 2020 Thanks. The only obvious downside is trying to adjust the chain with that in place. Link to post
KingJames 1,262 Posted April 2, 2020 Author Share Posted April 2, 2020 6 minutes ago, Tex said: Thanks. The only obvious downside is trying to adjust the chain with that in place. I outsource that to once every two years thanks to my oiler. Link to post
Tex 36,817 Posted April 2, 2020 Share Posted April 2, 2020 4 minutes ago, KingJames said: I outsource that to once every two years thanks to my oiler. Cool. Let us know how you get on. And how effective it is. Link to post
KingJames 1,262 Posted April 2, 2020 Author Share Posted April 2, 2020 I think we both know it won't be overly effective but I will have it as high up as possible (most likely) to catch the crud off the road. Suspect I will hear a lot more tinks as things hit it on the move having been flicked up. Stop gap while I source a new hugger to go near the rear spring as my last one broke somehow. Link to post
listener 11,179 Posted April 2, 2020 Share Posted April 2, 2020 2 hours ago, KingJames said: I think we both know it won't be overly effective but I will have it as high up as possible (most likely) to catch the crud off the road. Suspect I will hear a lot more tinks as things hit it on the move having been flicked up. Stop gap while I source a new hugger to go near the rear spring as my last one broke somehow. I think those close-fitting guards would work better if they had a brush across the upper edge. Soft nylon bristles, adjusted to just touch the surface of the cold tyre, would stop (most of) the muck from escaping the guard. 1 Link to post
KingJames 1,262 Posted April 4, 2020 Author Share Posted April 4, 2020 Jobs a good’un I think. Pretty close to the tyre and on the curve of muck spreading (I think). But fully on and nice and tight. 1 Link to post
Rocker66 34,423 Posted April 4, 2020 Share Posted April 4, 2020 I have thought about fitting one to the CB500X so will interested to read how well it works one when/if we are able to get out there again. Link to post
KingJames 1,262 Posted April 4, 2020 Author Share Posted April 4, 2020 Quick test ride round the block (essential) and I can confirm in the dry i have no new muck on the underside. I got mine from wish for about 15 quid plus p and p if looking. Link to post
Tex 36,817 Posted April 4, 2020 Share Posted April 4, 2020 Keep a close eye on that spindle nut after the first couple of rides. Consider removing the washer from between it and the guard. You’re perilously close to not having sufficient thread protrusion for the lock nut to work. 2 1 Link to post
Grumpy old man 4,673 Posted April 4, 2020 Share Posted April 4, 2020 Keep an eye on that wheel nut, not as far on as I'd have liked 1 minute ago, Tex said: Keep a close eye on that spindle nut after the first couple of rides. Consider removing the washer from between it and the guard. You’re perilously close to not having sufficient thread protrusion for the lock nut to work. Typing at the same time 1 Link to post
KingJames 1,262 Posted April 4, 2020 Author Share Posted April 4, 2020 (edited) Thanks. I left the washer off first of all but it looked like it would be ok with it on. How much protrusion should there be for it to be effective? Edited April 4, 2020 by KingJames Link to post
Grumpy old man 4,673 Posted April 4, 2020 Share Posted April 4, 2020 (edited) 8 minutes ago, KingJames said: Thanks. I left the washer off first of all but it looked like it would be ok with it on. How much protrusion should there be for it to be effective? About 2-3 Mil, or as much as you can get. As Tex says remove the washer. Also is there a nut and bolt to go through the elongated hole at the top that would stop the arm from falling down because with vibrations and the weight of the hugger I could imagine it dropping and loosening the wheel nut.🤔 Edited April 4, 2020 by Grumpy old man Link to post
KingJames 1,262 Posted April 4, 2020 Author Share Posted April 4, 2020 Nag nag nag. Everyone happy now? 😉 The wife said it was fine before. The benefit of having advisors who are not life insurance beneficiaries. Thank you all. 1 1 Link to post
Andy m 23,507 Posted April 4, 2020 Share Posted April 4, 2020 Will a bit of fuel or fish tank hose slip on over the exposed thread on the anti-drop bolt? You could do that when you wash it 😈😁😁 Andy Link to post
KingJames 1,262 Posted April 4, 2020 Author Share Posted April 4, 2020 Was thinking that may rub and wear through the metal. There’s a nut on the other side that prob needs a coating of something too. Calor has hose that is 8mm might to the trick. It is close to its spring wash. It is an anti theft deterrent for London Town. Link to post
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