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Regulator/Rectifier Location


Greaser

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Steve Case

I thought NZ had banished coronavirus and was coming out of lockdown, I suspect the scientists here just want to see what the Germans do then copy them.

 

Back on point, Greaser you say the voltage went right up when the bike was revved, what did it go right up to?

 

This is a brand new battery, why are you replacing the battery?

 

Did you check the (parasitic) voltage drain as Stelios asked and what value did you see? If your not sure how let us know.

 

And relating to (parasitic) voltage drain has anything been added to the wiring  like addition looms, aftermarket grips, spots, speakers, LEDs etc etc?

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ste7ios

Steve, as already explained here, new doesn’t mean in good condition.

 

A reason that I don’t like so much factory activated batteries (like YTZ series & motobatt...) but we don’t have the luxury to do something about it...

 

The parasitic drain always refers to current. :)


 

Still not clear what’s the battery’s condition... 

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Steve Case

Sorry yes, my mistake it is indeed current. 

 

Obviously not checking what I've written properly.

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outrunner

Any progress with this problem?

 

Andy.

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sparyk123

Hi  The easiest way to find a drain on the battery is  

 

1. take a 12v 5w bulb with two-wire connected to it

2. disconnect the battery from the positive side

3. take one end of the 5-watt bulb  and connect it to the terminal

4. take the other end of the 5-watt bulb and connect it to the cables from the positive terminal

 the bulb will not illuminate if you have no drain,  but will if you do have a drain

5. pull each fuse until the lamp goes out

6. then check what circuit the fuse relates to that is where the drain is

7. if you still have the bulb illuminated it could be a relay, so disconnect each relay until the bulb goes out

 hopefully, you should find what circuit the drain on the battery is on, 

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ste7ios

Dave, on modern vehicles you always have a drain of the battery, there’s always a parasitic load, because of the electronics (ECU/PCM) that are always partially active, in standby...

 

So the question here is not if there’s a parasitic drain but how much it is and where if it’s exceeding what’s considered normal according to the service manual...

 

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sparyk123
On 01/05/2020 at 13:10, ste7ios said:

Dave, on modern vehicles you always have a drain of the battery, there’s always a parasitic load, because of the electronics (ECU/PCM) that are always partially active, in standby...

 

So the question here is not if there’s a parasitic drain but how much it is and where if it’s exceeding what’s considered normal according to the service manual...

 

yes agree but, hence using a 5-watt bulb, this will not illuminate if the drain is so low it cant drain the battery, it will only illuminate if the drain on the battery is significant 

hope this helps 

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  • 2 weeks later...
Greaser

Hi guys,

 

I first want to say a huge thanks to everyone that responded, plenty of good advice on things to try and test out, my bike is finally firing up and running well at last.

Okay I feel a bit silly but need to confess as it may help others, I'd just got into bed last week, and suddenly thought carefully about my connections to the battery,

the Denarli sound bomb wiring harness has a ground wire, which after replacing the battery, I made the mistake of connecting this wire to the negative on my new battery, hence why the huge overnight drop in voltage occurred, originally after seeking work mates and other bikers thoughts, I was constantly being told, oh it sounds like your reg/rec is knackered, hence why I ended up taking panels and other bits off, which was completely unnecessary, every time I had charged and reconnected the battery, I unknowingly re connected the ground again!! was only when someone on here said about any other accessories fitted, that I thought why not just connect the flipping battery, and that sorted it, the next day, it metered at 12.88 from overnight being on the bike, it has stayed just below 13 ever since, and fires up within a second with the horns connected and properly now earthed.

 

So to sum up, I have definitely learned a great deal now about how things work, and being more hands on doing jobs on my bike, plus I have saved a few pennies. 

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Dunnster

Glad you got it sorted and it wasn't anything major. This forum is great when you need a problem solving, a lot of good advice from helpful members. :niceone: 

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fj_stuart

Great that you fixed the problem and gained some knowledge along the way.

When I have a bike issue I always think “what’s the last thing I did to it?”.

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While you was in there looking at the regulator did you notice the petrol tank pump? I have to remove the pump connector and then the fuel pipe so I can get the tank off. Just wondering if removing that plastic cover exposes the fuel pipe and wiring.

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Greaser
On 14/05/2020 at 06:13, djsb said:

While you was in there looking at the regulator did you notice the petrol tank pump? I have to remove the pump connector and then the fuel pipe so I can get the tank off. Just wondering if removing that plastic cover exposes the fuel pipe and wiring.

Hi mate

Sorry but I didn't check the pump connector at he time the  over was off, it could well expose it, when trying to locate all the fixings for the cover, remember there is a bolt the holds on the rear brake reservoir that needs removing too, hope you get it sorted.

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  • 9 months later...

I'm having a similar problem that I'm hoping someone can help me with? When I turn my bike on it starts as normal but after running it for 15 minutes or so, the power to the instrument panel cuts out intermittently then comes on again. It does this continually, but if I leave the bike for a while to cool down it behaves normally until the engine has been running for a while.

 

I've ruled out a problem with the battery, checked all the fuses and cleaned out all of the connections to the instrument panel. With my limited knowledge of electrical issues I've 'possibly' narrowed it down to;

  • Rectifier.
  • Alternator.
  • Earth connections.
  • Faulty instrument panel problem. 
  • Faulty wiring.

 

Any help would be most appreciated!

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fj_stuart
57 minutes ago, robskinn said:

I'm having a similar problem that I'm hoping someone can help me with? When I turn my bike on it starts as normal but after running it for 15 minutes or so, the power to the instrument panel cuts out intermittently then comes on again. It does this continually, but if I leave the bike for a while to cool down it behaves normally until the engine has been running for a while.

 

From what you describe I’d rule out the rectifier/regulator and the alternator. If either go bad the battery doesn’t charge and slowly discharges. They are easy to check. Put a voltmeter across the battery it should read 12.5V or so. Start the engine and this should jump up to about 14V indicating that its being charged.

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Slowboy
3 hours ago, robskinn said:

I'm having a similar problem that I'm hoping someone can help me with? When I turn my bike on it starts as normal but after running it for 15 minutes or so, the power to the instrument panel cuts out intermittently then comes on again. It does this continually, but if I leave the bike for a while to cool down it behaves normally until the engine has been running for a while.

 

I've ruled out a problem with the battery, checked all the fuses and cleaned out all of the connections to the instrument panel. With my limited knowledge of electrical issues I've 'possibly' narrowed it down to;

  • Rectifier.
  • Alternator.
  • Earth connections.
  • Faulty instrument panel problem. 
  • Faulty wiring.

 

Any help would be most appreciated!

It sounds like your batteries ok, and @fj_stuart’s advice will give a check for the charging and alternator ops, so I’d also have a good look at the multi plug that the instrument panel plugs into, they have been known to suffer a bit of corrosion on the pins. I’d also check the earth connections. It’s a partial body work off job from memory.

They clean up pretty well with switch cleaner the. Put some silicon grease on them before you plug it all back in to add some protection.

Other than that it’s a patient job with a multimeter.

Hope that helps and good luck.

Brian

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