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Mister Paul

LED spots - long-term use recommendations

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Mister Paul

It's time to buy some LED spots again. On my last X I had the Bikeviz ones, which worked great and were £120. Others have claimed that the exact lights are available on that auction site for pennies. I've never been able to find them -the ones that look to be the same actually have different shaped housings. The Bikeviz lights are round at the back while the that auction site ones are flat at the bottom.

Still, I don't want to pay another £120 if I can get something of equivalent quality for less than half of that. I've seen the Interphone lights which also look good but are still around £100.

So, I'm asking for feedback on the cheap lights that you've been running for a while. Does anyone have any that haven't failed after a year or two and would recommend? Where exactly did you get them from? "I bought some for £30 of that auction site" doesn't help in this situation unfortunately as there are many different options and sellers on that auction site and I'd like to not end up buying tat.

The other consideration is about focus. LED lights are hard to focus and they do bleed, resulting in dazzle to oncoming road users which I want to avoid. These will be for running on proper roads so I'm not looking at the square ones with 6 LEDs in as they're just going to throw light everywhere.

Thanks

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Haggard Rider

Bought these a while back from fleabay - (2pcs Motorcycle Motorbike Bike 4 LED Front Fog Spot Lights Headlight Lamp  item no. 173453569708) - fit nice and high on the wing mirror so use them primarily to assist cagers in seeing me, haven't used them at night but for the money....

 

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wjvh

I bought some cheap ones from Aamazon, £24 for a pair of CREE led spots. Mounted to the mudguard brackets on my NC700S, so they're quite low but that is good for not blinding other drivers and actually lighting up the road. Aluminium housing. Beefed up the wiring waterproofing with some heat shrink tubing. Have seen identical ones on eebay for about a tenner.

They have far surpassed my (low) expectations and I would not hesitate to buy similar/same if I was in the market. The paint is flaking off and the actual brackets are rusting now (just surface, they'll last). Really pleased with these, so cheap lights (perhaps not THE cheapest) are worth a punt. Try to buy UK stock especially at the moment otherwise you'll be waiting a long time.

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wjvh

Item description on Aamazon: Motorcycle LED Headlights 10W High Power Spotlights Foglights Round Driving Fog Lamp for Motorbike Cars Bike Boat Truck and more, 1Pair

 

Currently showing at £26/pair. I have seen identical items on eebay on for a tenner.

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wjvh

Here they are in all of their scruffy but perfectly functional glory ...

 

BD17F505-D27C-4F58-BF85-54A62D4A6135.jpeg

CC755116-A5F3-49E4-980D-13EEAB85B2B3.jpeg

367095E9-FA92-49DB-B41A-74CF1CEFFDD2.jpeg

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Blackmoon181

have  similar ones to @wjvh . think they cost around £70 from amazon. CREE appear to be well respected. be careful there are a lot of fakes going around. i have had my CREE ones for around a year now and they are great. (10W) 

 

@wjvh inventive mounting solution. i like it. 

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MatBin
On 16/04/2020 at 12:01, wjvh said:

Item description on Aamazon: Motorcycle LED Headlights 10W High Power Spotlights Foglights Round Driving Fog Lamp for Motorbike Cars Bike Boat Truck and more, 1Pair

 

Currently showing at £26/pair. I have seen identical items on eebay on for a tenner.

Hope you don't mind me asking but what did you wire them in to for a power source, did you need a separate on/off switch and or relay?

Thinking about adding a couple of lamps (LED) but don't particularly want to add a relay, I've done it before, many years ago, but I already have SatNav and charger wires direct to battery, not keen on adding another connection if I can help it. I believe I have the ancillary loom installed as the bike came with heated grips and there's an extra relay/fuse in the box, so I think the dealer did it correctly (bought the bike second hand, so it's history isn't well known to me).

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wjvh

I had a spare line on the OE extra harness so just wired into an ignition live connection. No switch, no relay other than what is already there. I think the OE harness provides up to 3 connections so sounds like you should have at least one spare. If you can get to Durham I’ll help you fit it.

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philphil61

I've read this thread several times and many, many similar topics/threads/reviews etc

 

and I joined to hopefully help others but also to find the answer to one specific question 

 

The majority of LED Auxiliary Lights are only 2 wires - (pos & neg) therefore if you want high and low (DRL) beam functionality you have to add "the switch" (which on most includes strobe function)

 

The Honda NC 750 sub harness has a connector for lights (3 pins - for high & low (DRL) beam

 

I want (or would like) to utilize this connection (therefore not requiring an additional switch) BUT I can't find any 3 wired high & low beam LED Auxiliary Lights suitable and of course reasonably priced £100ish tops

 

Unless one of you have found the "Ark of the Covenant" 😀😉😀

 

Thanks

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SteveThackery
On 4/16/2020 at 09:46, Mister Paul said:

The other consideration is about focus. LED lights are hard to focus and they do bleed, resulting in dazzle to oncoming road users which I want to avoid. 

 

Surely the opposite is the case.  LED lights are closer to a point source than a filament, so they are easier to focus without bleed.  Indeed, the absence of bleed is one of the things that makes dipped-headlamp riding around bends so flippin' hazardous on the later NCs.

 

Mind you, I do accept that cheap, Chinese-made lamps may well have rubbish focus and short lives (due to the Chinese habit of 50% overloading of LED chips).

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wjvh

@philphil61

 

try these, description exactly as per aamazon uk

”4" Pair CREE Off Road LED Light Bar 120W 12000LM 6000K+3000K Dual Color Hi Lo Beam Combo Flood Light DRL Angle Light 9-30V LED Work Light Projector for Truck SUV 4X4 Shipside Trailer Motor Boat 4WD”

 

at only £25 incl delivery gotta be worth a punt even if they only last a couple of years ... my only concern is that they could be too bright!

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Mister Paul
Posted (edited)
On 5/25/2020 at 20:16, SteveThackery said:

 

Surely the opposite is the case.  LED lights are closer to a point source than a filament, so they are easier to focus without bleed.  Indeed, the absence of bleed is one of the things that makes dipped-headlamp riding around bends so flippin' hazardous on the later NCs.

 

Mind you, I do accept that cheap, Chinese-made lamps may well have rubbish focus and short lives (due to the Chinese habit of 50% overloading of LED chips).

Filament headlights usually shine back into the reflector which sends out a controlled beam.

 

The LED spots are generally a flat emitter in the middle of a reflective bowl. The only way to focus and control this is by putting it through a decent lens (look at the decent LED torches), but most spot lights just have a flat glass cover, so there's nothing to put an edge on the beam. 

 

The Honda LED headlights are all generally rubbish, and I don't think it's because of lack of bleed. 

Edited by Mister Paul
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MikeBike
On 25/05/2020 at 19:43, philphil61 said:

I've read this thread several times and many, many similar topics/threads/reviews etc

 

and I joined to hopefully help others but also to find the answer to one specific question 

 

The majority of LED Auxiliary Lights are only 2 wires - (pos & neg) therefore if you want high and low (DRL) beam functionality you have to add "the switch" (which on most includes strobe function)

 

The Honda NC 750 sub harness has a connector for lights (3 pins - for high & low (DRL) beam

 

I want (or would like) to utilize this connection (therefore not requiring an additional switch) BUT I can't find any 3 wired high & low beam LED Auxiliary Lights suitable and of course reasonably priced £100ish tops

 

Unless one of you have found the "Ark of the Covenant" 😀😉😀

 

Thanks

The ones I fitted do - they have 3 wires and I had a switch fitted so I could dim them, but in the end just use them always on full. See thread below

 

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SteveThackery
10 hours ago, Mister Paul said:

Filament headlights usually shine back into the reflector which sends out a controlled beam.

 

The LED spots are generally a flat emitter in the middle of a reflective bowl. The only way to focus and control this is by putting it through a decent lens (look at the decent LED torches), but most spot lights just have a flat glass cover, so there's nothing to put an edge on the beam. 

 

The Honda LED headlights are all generally rubbish, and I don't think it's because of lack of bleed. 

 

Ah, so we are both correct.  LEDs are easier to focus, but of course require a lens.  The failure to use a lens is a choice by the manufacturer of the spot light.  So, blame the manufacturer, not the LED!  :)

 

On my NC (which I no longer have) there must have been some sort of focusing arrangement, because the cutoff on dip beam was pretty sharp.  The lack of any scatter was, in my view, part of the problem when banked over.  The other big problem was the overall lack of light output.

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philphil61
On 26/05/2020 at 20:45, wjvh said:

@philphil61

 

try these, description exactly as per aamazon uk

”4" Pair CREE Off Road LED Light Bar 120W 12000LM 6000K+3000K Dual Color Hi Lo Beam Combo Flood Light DRL Angle Light 9-30V LED Work Light Projector for Truck SUV 4X4 Shipside Trailer Motor Boat 4WD”

 

at only £25 incl delivery gotta be worth a punt even if they only last a couple of years ... my only concern is that they could be too bright!

Thanks for reply/info

 

Confused (probably the reason I asked the original question)

I thought having strobe option would be an MOT failure/illegal on UK roads

 

Therefore, and I'm guessing here also, having a yellow light (part of the high beam function) - like what you've advised - on the front of any UK vehicle - that doesn't flash (indicator) would also be an MOT failure

 

Or am I missing the obvious?

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okupant
Posted (edited)
On 25/05/2020 at 19:43, philphil61 said:

The Honda NC 750 sub harness has a connector for lights (3 pins - for high & low (DRL) beam

The only thing is that the standard plug where you connect the sub-harness to has only two wires (don't remember their colours now) and there isn't high beam signal any more. At least for 2017 up and LED headlights. This info I've found out somewhere on forums.

 

BTW, aren't you on tmbf too ;)

20200530_144625.jpg

Edited by okupant

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ncx19
Posted (edited)

i bought these:

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07NKBY1FD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

pretty sure they were closer to $20Cdn ea last year.

easy to aim.

good spot of light at 100 yards.

I have both on the side of the road side of the bike (canada vs uk) at different distances to aid in spotting wildlife at night.

 

Compared to crazy priced PIAA and the like, these are at least half as good at less than 10% of the price.

Havent rusted over the winter (stored outside)

 

I installed the aux wiring harness from Honda, and made a patch cord with quick connect connectors to reach the switch and lights.

 

Edited by ncx19
grammar
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philphil61
Posted (edited)
On 30/05/2020 at 14:46, okupant said:

The only thing is that the standard plug where you connect the sub-harness to has only two wires (don't remember their colours now) and there isn't high beam signal any more. At least for 2017 up and LED headlights. This info I've found out somewhere on forums.

 

BTW, aren't you on tmbf too ;)

20200530_144625.jpg

just replied on tmbf then read this  😀😀😀😀😀

 

Where you've highlighted is not the end of the sub harness

 

That rubber sheath (not condom) just below is where your 3 additional power sources are - 2 X 2 pin and 1 X 3 pin

 

HTH

Edited by philphil61
typo

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okupant
13 hours ago, philphil61 said:

Where you've highlighted is not the end of the sub harness

 

That rubber sheath (not condom) just below is where your 3 additional power sources are - 2 X 2 pin and 1 X 3 pin

The sub-harness plug connects to Honda 6P socket which consist of 2 wires only despite 3 wires in the sub-harness.

I've came across this info that Honda does not supply high beam signal anymore (it used to be 3rd wire in the 6P socket). 

20200601_110100.jpg

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philphil61
Posted (edited)
On 01/06/2020 at 11:12, okupant said:

The sub-harness plug connects to Honda 6P socket which consist of 2 wires only despite 3 wires in the sub-harness.

I've came across this info that Honda does not supply high beam signal anymore (it used to be 3rd wire in the 6P socket). 

20200601_110100.jpg

Confused 

sorry don't understand the wiring diagram in it's current form

Hopefully sometime tomorrow I'll remove the seat and test the 3 pins with a meter and if done will report back.

 

I was "reliably" informed by two motorcycle dealers (including main Honda) that that 3pin was for high/DRL lights.

 

edit

 

Just found this

 

Edited by philphil61
added

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okupant
 
 
0
 Advanced issue found
 
 
20 hours ago, philphil61 said:

Just found this

 

Nobody mentioned if the lights operate with dual intensity.

 

Anyway, after fitting an additional switch from Denali (low/off/high) my only problem is that the lights flicker while on the low beam on idle (stop flickering once I rev up above about 1800 rpm), but do not flicker at all on high beam, even on idle.

Please, can anybody help me?

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Landor
On 30/05/2020 at 14:46, okupant said:

The only thing is that the standard plug where you connect the sub-harness to has only two wires (don't remember their colours now) and there isn't high beam signal any more. At least for 2017 up and LED headlights. This info I've found out somewhere on forums.

 

BTW, aren't you on tmbf too ;)

20200530_144625.jpg

 

Is that a 90 degree angle bracket you have for fixing the light to the light bar/crash bar?

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MatBin
Posted (edited)

^^^ Really useful picture - thanks, as they say a picture saves a thousand words, certainly does above. 

I think this is the best post I have seen on here :)

Edited by MatBin

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