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10/30 or 10/40 oil ?


Spike

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Spindizzy

DCT use the 30, helps apparently. Manual the 40 its cheaper and in spec for the bike based on the workshop manual. Unless you ride in sub zero temps it's fine. Dealers use 40.

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Dunnster

I use castrol 10/30 or castrol 10/40 or a 50/50 mix of the two. Not noticed any difference with either but I ride a manual NC. I think the DCT is bit particular about oil grade and prefers 10/30. :thumbsup:

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So if you mix the two together (10/40 and 10/30) do you get a 10/35?!

 

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Dunnster
58 minutes ago, Spike said:

So if you mix the two together (10/40 and 10/30) do you get a 10/35?!

 

Yeah, pretty much :thumbsup:

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1. Whatever you have in the garage, including a blend if need be and don’t worry about mixing brands

2. Or, if not #1, then buy the cheapest of whatever brand you’re happy with

😉

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MatBin

Although I believe it's a good idea to get bike oil rather than car oil, some of the additives aren't bike friendly or so I have read.

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30 minutes ago, MatBin said:

Although I believe it's a good idea to get bike oil rather than car oil, some of the additives aren't bike friendly or so I have read.

Absolutely correct, goes without saying 👍

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  • 4 weeks later...
Pete Crowther

Must be a specific MC grade oil. If it doesn't have MC in the product code it is not suitable for wet clutch engines.

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fj_stuart
56 minutes ago, Pete Crowther said:

Must be a specific MC grade oil. If it doesn't have MC in the product code it is not suitable for wet clutch engines.

 

That’s not my experience.

 

I usually use a fully synthetic motorcycle-specific oil but not always. I have a couple of high mileage bikes that have developed a thirst for oil – a CBF250 & FJ1200 with 185,000 miles between them. It seems a waste using expensive oil that isn’t going to be in there that long.

 

For them I use Viscol synthetic from Home Bargains. It says “suitable for all petrol engines” but I think they means cars. I have no clutch slip issues and the FJ’s grunt would surely slip a clutch if it could.

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Pete Crowther

Non MC oils may be OK, depends on friction modifiers in the particular oil spec. MC spec oils are certain to be right.

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Griff

I have always used a Motorcycle specif 10/40 semi synthetic. 

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Tonyj
On 19/04/2020 at 17:25, Spike said:

So if you mix the two together (10/40 and 10/30) do you get a 10/35?!

 

think its more 25/11

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DCTPaul

Most bikes n scoots i used to use Halfords 5w40 Fully Synthetic... especially in the winter months... Made by Comma - who also make Castrol...

For the NC DCT i will use Castrol 10w30 Fully Synthetic, and the same in the new SH...

I have a halfords trade card... so 20% off helps...

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Griff
13 hours ago, DCTPaul said:

For the NC DCT i will use Castrol 10w30 Fully Synthetic, and the same in the new SH...

 

I mentioned the possibility of using fully synthetic to the Honda importers here and they were having none of it. No idea what their issue is. Anyway I have always only ever used a Semi 10/40 without issue. 

 

I once used the full synthetic version on my former 1200 Explorer thinking that it would considerably extend my oil change periods. Wrong. The Triumph hydraulic camchain tensioner had a habit of making itself heard on startup whenever the oil viscosity was going off. The Full synthetic oil only pushed that out by about 1000kms.  

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Tex
14 hours ago, DCTPaul said:

Most bikes n scoots i used to use Halfords 5w40 Fully Synthetic... especially in the winter months... Made by Comma - who also make Castrol...

For the NC DCT i will use Castrol 10w30 Fully Synthetic, and the same in the new SH...

I have a halfords trade card... so 20% off helps...


Comma make Castrol?! I would need to see evidence of that one. :) 

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DCTPaul

Sorry... Comma make Castrol...

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Tex

As far as I can see the two brands are entirely independent. Castrol is owned by BP and Comma is owned a Brazilian outfit called Moove. Both have their own production plants. 

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DCTPaul

Arsed it up... twice

Comma make the Halfords oil...

Comma listed on the Halfords Data Sheet...

 

Just checked my NC750X DCT 600m service invoice from Doh!-bles... (Due to my lockdown induced nagging thoughts following my previous arse up)

Honda 10w30 Bulk Oil 08232M99S6LHE 208L - FULLY SYN... 3.40 Lt @ £9.992... £33.97

Plus the filters, sundries, biscuits, Vodka And Tonic...

 

Edited by DCTPaul
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Tex
1 hour ago, DCTPaul said:

Arsed it up... twice

Comma make the Halfords oil...

 

Ahh, indeed they do. :niceone: Interestingly, before Comma made it Castrol used to! ;) 

 

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SteveThackery
On 5/30/2020 at 10:32, tw586 said:

use either as long as is not synthetic 

 

1/ What's wrong with synthetic?

 

2/ And no, don't use either.  Open the owner's handbook.  Read the oil specs.  Buy oil that matches the specs.  Install in the engine.

 

There is no room for "opinion" here: Honda knows best, every time.

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Griff
24 minutes ago, SteveThackery said:

 

1/ What's wrong with synthetic?

 

 

 

Imho its not all its whacked up to be. At least that is the opinion of my former Triumph Explorer <_<

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Andy m

Synthetic is just pointless and expensive in normal engines. 

 

The race stuff about preventing it running in and then preventing it wearing out is going to be correct to some degree, but I don't really care if the ninth owner only gets to 69696 miles rather than 89988. 

 

Most vehicle oil if tested will be nothing like worn out. The bits of metal in it and petrol absorbed will be nothing like the limit because Honda has to account for the 98th percentile user who delivers pizza round the steel works in Azerbaijan. Changing from an oil 60% worn to one that'll never get past 50 is literally money down the drain. 

 

As for the ones changing oil at half the distance, Helicoil loves you, the planet doesn't. 

 

I'm totally in the do what Honda says, use an oil brand you know and read the label camp. 

 

Andy

Edited by Andy m
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