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Dart

electrics died mid ride

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Dart

hello all, im after some help or advice, i was riding merrily allong yesterday, when the engine faultered, engine managment light blinked, then everything shut off, (not even hazards worked) i bumped it as i had some speed, turned for home and 10 mins later, the same happened again but it never woke up..

the battery is new and charged, i have heated grips which gave issues (hence new battery) but new grips to replace faulty one so doubt its that.

got denali spots and a usb 12v charger..(that i dont use)

 

has anyone had this happen?

no haynes manuel to help me... (come on haynes)

 

cheers all 

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outrunner

Sounds to me like a connection issue so I would start looking at all the major plugs, unfortunately they are mostly behind panels that need to be removed.

 

 

Andy.

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Dart

thanks andy

 

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Andy m

Obvious stuff first, 12V across the battery, battery negative zero resistance to the frame and engine, no fuses blown, wiggling the kill switch does nothing, spare key doesn't work etc. 

 

For everything to die its between the battery and ignition switch IMHO. After that things like the immobiliser and kill switch leave you with lights or a buzz of fuel pump priming, not completely dead. 

 

Andy

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Tony

Happened to me on the M40. Turned out to be a totally dead battery because the bike had stopped charging as riding along. Turned out to be a corroded connector somewhere at the back of the bike. My bike lives outside under a cover. Hope this helps.

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MikeBike
Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Tony said:

Happened to me on the M40. Turned out to be a totally dead battery because the bike had stopped charging as riding along. Turned out to be a corroded connector somewhere at the back of the bike. My bike lives outside under a cover. Hope this helps.

Could be interesting to find out which connector is susceptible. Do you have an invoice that shows the part no of the replaced connector?

Edited by MikeBike

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Tony

Sorry - just checked and cant find invoice. I will give dealer a ring and see if they have a record.

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MikeBike
9 hours ago, Tony said:

Sorry - just checked and cant find invoice. I will give dealer a ring and see if they have a record.

Oh don't go to trouble over it  - it was just curiosity.

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Eddie17

same thing happened to me last November with new bike (not honda nc).Told by recovery it was a bad battery and  then by the dealers mechanic that is was the  Ht cap, a common problem allegedly, which it wasn't .Then on way home from dealer  same thing happened again, was and told it was loose regulator. Had no trouble since then hopefully you can sort it 

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Dart

eureka (sort of)

 

ive found a melted 30amp fuse to the right of battery..

 

does this solve my issue, or is the problem still there is i replace?

(sorry for my ignorance but im a carpenter... its only covid that stops the bike being in the mechanics!

 

the orange top has also melted a little id post a photo, but like i said, im a carpenter

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Andy m

If plastic has melted you were one fuse away from it catching fire. 

 

Have you had a battery charger on it via a wired in socket? 

 

If you have that's the prime suspect. If not something is shorted. 

 

Have a good look for anything touching the frame that shouldn't or chafed wires. Put a new fuse in and see if the fuse gets warm. start it and see. Hold the brake light on and have a feel. Run it up to the end of the road and see etc. 

 

I regret to say that unless there has been a charger you have a fault. Putting a new fuse in and ignoring it until it goes whoosh rather than pop is not a great strategy. 

 

Do you have any added electrical items? Disconnect them

If you can make it start to get warm in a controlled way, pull the other fuses one at a time, you may be able to isolate the area of the short. 

 

At the first sign of trouble stop. The way to diagnose this is with an ammeter which can in itself be risky, so best left to your mechanic. 

 

Andy

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bazza

goods fun this electrical lark isn't it? if its not the bike in my case its the van- had a broken wire in the middle of a factory fitted wiring loom on that

I read that "classic" cars now include such crap as Morris Marinas etc from the 80's -because they were pre PCB days us amateurs can work on things without spending hundreds on a new chip brain -that's probably not the fault anyway!

On Darts problem one thing I have learnt is

always assume that YOU or the garage- have fitted something new -then faults start happening IT'S PROBABLY THAT which is wrong!

I had a Triton when a student and after giving it a service ,it wouldn't start -and that was a kickstart, none of this button lark- I bumped it down the hill I lived on- Cotham Brow in Bristol and got completely knackered cause I had to push it back up again!.After 2 days a wiser person said

"did you put in new spark plugs"

Yes -new Champions

"have you tried it with the old ones?"

I put them back in -end of PROBLEM!

so never assume a new part is a solution!

.Dart -forget Haynes -the solution is nearer than you think!

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Dart
1 hour ago, Andy m said:

If plastic has melted you were one fuse away from it catching fire. 

 

Have you had a battery charger on it via a wired in socket? 

 

If you have that's the prime suspect. If not something is shorted. 

 

Have a good look for anything touching the frame that shouldn't or chafed wires. Put a new fuse in and see if the fuse gets warm. start it and see. Hold the brake light on and have a feel. Run it up to the end of the road and see etc. 

 

I regret to say that unless there has been a charger you have a fault. Putting a new fuse in and ignoring it until it goes whoosh rather than pop is not a great strategy. 

 

Do you have any added electrical items? Disconnect them

If you can make it start to get warm in a controlled way, pull the other fuses one at a time, you may be able to isolate the area of the short. 

 

At the first sign of trouble stop. The way to diagnose this is with an ammeter which can in itself be risky, so best left to your mechanic. 

 

Andy

thanks very much, this is all great.. (well, bad and good) 

yes. i plugged it into a bike charger that was on the mains, it didnt take long before it went to float mode..

i have just come back from dropping it down to my usual guy. i left him the charger unit too incase theres a way to check that its faulty.

spoke to a very busy and friendly auto bike electritian who says it sounds like the regulators gone and maybe the stator (if 3 yellow wires have gone brown..) the black rubber shroud on the main fuse wasnt fitted on well when i took it off so fingers crossed its that and not a bunch of expensive parts..

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Dart
33 minutes ago, bazza said:

goods fun this electrical lark isn't it? if its not the bike in my case its the van- had a broken wire in the middle of a factory fitted wiring loom on that

I read that "classic" cars now include such crap as Morris Marinas etc from the 80's -because they were pre PCB days us amateurs can work on things without spending hundreds on a new chip brain -that's probably not the fault anyway!

On Darts problem one thing I have learnt is

always assume that YOU or the garage- have fitted something new -then faults start happening IT'S PROBABLY THAT which is wrong!

I had a Triton when a student and after giving it a service ,it wouldn't start -and that was a kickstart, none of this button lark- I bumped it down the hill I lived on- Cotham Brow in Bristol and got completely knackered cause I had to push it back up again!.After 2 days a wiser person said

"did you put in new spark plugs"

Yes -new Champions

"have you tried it with the old ones?"

I put them back in -end of PROBLEM!

so never assume a new part is a solution!

.Dart -forget Haynes -the solution is nearer than you think!

no, electrics are hideous..! 

i know Cotham brow well! 

ive spent a lot of money fitting denali spots and heated grips..  ;[ 

you think i should get rid of them?

 

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Andy m
8 minutes ago, Dart said:

no, electrics are hideous..! 

 

ive spent a lot of money fitting denali spots and heated grips..  ;[ 

you think i should get rid of them?

 

Both grips and lights have a switch and hopefully their own fuse. This problem is before the switch as I assume the heated grips were off in May? If they have their own fuses pull them for now or at least don't use them. Both would typically blow the fuse when you turned them on. If the fitting was wrong they'd blow it within hours. I think your blokes idea of the reg/rec is possible. 

 

Electrics are just tiny pipes full of stuff you can't pour down the drain**. If flows down hill (to earth*). Yours is all cramming through a thin bit of pipe because either that bit is a way to a short cut to a fast way down the hill or something upped the pressure in the tank (battery) . The thin pipe can't take it so goes pop. 

 

*Some Brit bike loonies claimed that by wiring battery positive to the frame, the earth is positive. This is about at the level of claiming water flows up the plughole in Australia and is best ignored. 

 

**Half my students are trained on pneumatics. Imagine how hard it is to get them to understand you can't just open a pipe and get rid of the stuff locally like you do with air. 

 

Andy

 

 

 

 

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