Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
DaringFutures

(Noob) What's your chain maintenance routine?

Recommended Posts

DaringFutures

As a new biker and new owner of a NC750X, I'm keen to regularly look after my bike, and I'm curious to learn how others are caring for the chains.

  • What lube do you use? ... there's several available (Muck-off wet, dry, etc)
  • Do you have any fancy gizmos for assessing chain tension?

 

Thanks in advance for any advice ... :cheers:

Share this post


Link to post
Andy m
Posted (edited)

There is a thread with a video by the Canadian testing bloke that's worth a watch. 

 

A few drops of EP80 gear old or old engine oil, wipe with a cloth and forget it for 500 miles is my routine. No need for spray cans and blocks of blubber to boil on your stove. Adjustment is usually twice a year. Slack is better and over adjustment is bad. Anything between moving the first knuckle on your thumb and almost touching the swing arm is fine. Forget lasers and plumb bobs, just bling for fetishists who need to stop fiddling before it falls off. People saying otherwise will often be selling you laser guided blubber spray. 

 

Andy

Edited by Andy m
  • Like 2
  • Haha 6

Share this post


Link to post
Exceledsteve

+1 Andy. I splash out and use clean engine oil, applied with an old toothbrush, or the wife's if she's pi55ed me off.

 

  • Haha 5

Share this post


Link to post
makman
Posted (edited)

Using a tuturo chain oiler filled with B&Q chainsaw oil.  Works nicely and I wipe the chain down every now and then with a clean cloth to get the grit etc off the surface.  It works really well.  Thinking of changing to a shaft drive, so this will be a thing of the past (snigger).

Edited by makman
  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
bahnstormer

Same as Makman, a Tutoro chain oiler and occasional wipe down.

 

Like Andy says, there's no need for blingy tools when it comes to adjusting it, just count the turns on the left side, replicate them on the right side.  You'd be surprised at how little adjustment is needed to pull the slack out, so don't overdo it!

Share this post


Link to post
DCTPaul
Posted (edited)

Std Scottoiler with the scorpion twin nozzle...

B&Q Kerosene or Parsene and a tooth brush once in a while...

Edited by DCTPaul

Share this post


Link to post
Grumpy old man

Loobman with the cheapest engine oil you can buy. Check the chain for tight links when you clean the bike. The loobman works well, cheap and easy to fit. 

Share this post


Link to post
Hickky

WD40 every month, adjustment twice a year. X ring chains only need stuff to prevent rust build up when a link can seize. Running the bike on a centre/paddock stand helps as well.

Share this post


Link to post
chris

I started on the NC using white spray chain grease and regular cleaning.  Chain lasted about 13,500 km before it was worn out.  Fitted a replacement with new sprockets (DID Gold) and a Tutoro auto oiler. It takes a bit of fiddling to keep it flowing right as temperature changes but when you get it sorted it lubes the chain and the oil fling actually keeps it clean too. It reduced chain maintenance to a top up of the reservoir every 500 km or so and occasional check on tension. I fitted one to my Multi from day one and have a similar experience.  Over 10,000 km and hardly any wear,  chain has never needed cleaning and I've only once needed to adjust slack.

 

I'd previously been convinced of the typical clean and periodic lube routine but I'm now happy to rely on the oiler doing most of the work. 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Scootabout

+1 for the Tutoro. In my previous one I used Scottoiler oil after the inital Tutoro bottle ran out. Eventually the plastic delivery tube became brittle. So now I use the recommended Tutoro stuff. Not having conducted a controlled experiment, however, I don't know if it was the Scottoiler oil that was actually the culprit. It could, for example, have been sunlight, or dirt. 

Share this post


Link to post
Spindizzy

I wouldn't buy any chain lube that is sticky.

 

I went full circle with chain fetishism. Now it gets cleaned occasionally with WD40 which leaves some protection behind. Then a squirt of dry PTFE spray to help the rollers.

 

I don't ride in foul weather, the above works for my type of riding.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Thosoneill

Motul C2 Chain Lube Road - 400ml

A colorless water and rust resistant adhesive spray

Coats motorcycle chains even at high speeds

Especially recommended for very fast motorcycles

Reduces friction and increases chain durability

A colorless water and rust resistant adhesive spray that coats motorcycle chains even at high speeds. Especially recommended for very fast motorcycles, chain lube road reduces friction and increases chain durability.

Share this post


Link to post
DaringFutures

Thanks for the advice, folks ... There's definitely some themes here ... :cheers:

Share this post


Link to post
MatBin
On 30/07/2020 at 15:22, DaringFutures said:

Thanks for the advice, folks ... There's definitely some themes here ... :cheers:

Measure chain tension as per handbook i.e. on side stand at tightest point, tape measure is fine i.e. builders type you can lock and just measure to same point of chain, I use underside of a link and make it 35mm. 27mm and 22mm sockets for axle nuts, adjuster and lock nuts are 12/13 or 13/14 and as above just make number of turns same each side, check marks and nip up axle before locking off adjuster, check afterwards. Takes about 15 minutes first time.

I clean with parafin and a cloth and lube with any old spray can stuff I have lying around. I also use a grease ninja device as it makes it easier/cleaner operation. Centre stand helps, obviously only turn wheel by hand. On the dcx I find the gearbox isn't in neutral so I have to switch on ignition and select N before I start, switch ignition off too.

Edited by MatBin

Share this post


Link to post
JONO49

Scotoiler fitted, but every wash the chain is cleaned down with a rag and penetrating oil, when nice and clean re-spray side plates with chain wax type stuff ( Toolstation stuff does ) scotoiler takes care of the rollers and never need to adjust!

Share this post


Link to post
Ozzieflyer

Use off the shelf kerosene to clean every 1000 kms.

Then use maxima chain lube with a grease ninja to assist application. 

Seems to work well. 

Share this post


Link to post
SRR

Hi

 After returning to biking in 35years! Back in those dark ages [no internet/forums] with all the advice, that I now value. I didn’t know anything about chain adjustments/ lubing!!

I am now much better informed - like you all are! 

 Thanks goodness for the internet and forums such as this that we now are on 

THANK YOU

Steve

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Chris750

I like doing chain maintenance and find it very satisfying and therapeutic! It gives you time to properly inspect all components in that area, I've always used EP90.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
embattle
On 29/07/2020 at 15:03, Andy m said:

There is a thread with a video by the Canadian testing bloke that's worth a watch. 

 

A few drops of EP80 gear old or old engine oil, wipe with a cloth and forget it for 500 miles is my routine. No need for spray cans and blocks of blubber to boil on your stove. Adjustment is usually twice a year. Slack is better and over adjustment is bad. Anything between moving the first knuckle on your thumb and almost touching the swing arm is fine. Forget lasers and plumb bobs, just bling for fetishists who need to stop fiddling before it falls off. People saying otherwise will often be selling you laser guided blubber spray. 

 

Andy

 

 

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×