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DCT problems.


outrunner

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outrunner

It's only taken me 54000 miles and just over 4 years but I have finally broken the NC. The DCT has started to play up, but not in a continuous way to start with. It started the other day when I noticed the downshifts in manual mode were getting a bit slow going from 6 to 5 and 5 to 4 so I switched to auto and it was the same, then it stuck in 3rd gear so I headed into a supermarket car park and switched it off. Switching it on did nothing as it would not start nor shift to neutral. After going for a coffee and a think I came back to the bike and switched it on to hear a clicking noise from the right hand side of the engine but it stopped after about 5 clicks. Putting the bike on the centre stand, switching it on and spinning the rear wheel it went into neutral and fired up no problem. On the run home everything seemed to be working properly and I took it out on Sunday and gave it a good thrashing and all was well. Not so today as after 20 miles or so it did it again so I left it, went for coffee and on coming back and doing the same as the other day it fired up and off I went heading towards my local bike shop but did not quite make it before it stuck in gear again at about the same mileage. After a repeat of the procedure I got to the shop and got him to change the oil and filters just in case and to put it on his diagnostic gubbins ( technical term) to see what it said. No fault codes showed up so he reset it to factory and I tried again to no avail as the bloody thing did it again, twice on a similar journey. This bike needs a deeper investigation, a fire, or perhaps sold, or even thrown off a steep embankment somewhere. What I do not understand is why it is fine when cold, if it were a major problem you would think it would do it all the time. Sorry for the long, rambling post but I was trying to describe it as well as I could.

 

Disgruntled, Scotland. :oldfart:

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  • outrunner

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I think I have fixed the bike, at least I hope it's fixed. After much research trawling the internet, sifting out the shit rubbish that is talked on various forums I came to the conclusion that it was

Correct! ...   As I found out at the Kirriemuir petrol station a couple of weeks ago. Topped up bike. Turned on ignition. Tried to put bike in gear. Nothing. Turned off ignition.

Just a wee something to add to the story, Bob my electrical guru took the motor apart and saw that one of the brushes had come adrift from the spring that keeps it in contact with the commutator. He r

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MikeBike

Isnt the clicking associated with low battery on starting? Maybe a voltage check would be a good place to start when you get the problems.

 

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DaveM59

54000 and 4 years is about the lifetime of an average battery. Trembling of the starter solenoid is usually the first sign it's getting gutless.

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Battery! as above.

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outrunner
2 hours ago, MikeBike said:

Isnt the clicking associated with low battery on starting? Maybe a voltage check would be a good place to start when you get the problems.

 

The clicking is not when trying to start the bike, it started clicking when I switched on the ignition, quite sure the battery is OK

 

Andy.

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outrunner
2 hours ago, DaveM59 said:

54000 and 4 years is about the lifetime of an average battery. Trembling of the starter solenoid is usually the first sign it's getting gutless.

Not the starter solenoid as the clicking starts by switching on the ignition not pressing the start button.

 

 

Andy.

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outrunner
9 minutes ago, Tonyj said:

Clicking is it going into neutral surely 

No, it clicks but does not go into neutral and the gear indicator shows 3rd gear so it obviously will not start if not in neutral. Leave it for 20 mins or so and switch on ignition and spin the rear wheel by hand and it shifts down to neutral, then it will start and run OK for about 20 miles then starts its nonesense again.

 

Andy.

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ChrisCB
3 minutes ago, Dunnster said:

Arent you supposed to shift into neutral before switching it off?

It's definitely advisable to do this because if the battery is in poor health it won't have the current to shift to neutral. Check battery standing voltage and cranking voltage, if the cranking voltage is lower than 10.5v (ish) the battery is toast.

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I have to agree with the others posts pointing to the battery, i know the noise you mean and i to had that a few times and it always seemed to be low voltage or battery related, 

 

 

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Andy m

Another vote for fitting a new battery before going any deeper. 

 

Low voltages give computers nightmares. A binary system seeing a 1/2 in string of 1's and 0's runs up the white flag. 

 

Andy

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outrunner
10 hours ago, Dunnster said:

Arent you supposed to shift into neutral before switching it off?

Indeed you are, but you can not do that when the thing is stuck in 3rd gear while driving and stays stuck when you stop.

 

 

Andy.

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Dunnster
32 minutes ago, outrunner said:

Indeed you are, but you can not do that when the thing is stuck in 3rd gear while driving and stays stuck when you stop.

 

 

Andy.

 

Durr, silly me! :blush:

Sounds like the shifter pin issue, but I thought Honda had sorted that out after the 700cc engine change to 750cc, unless yours has just slipped through the net or you have worn it out and broken it.....:flowers:

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Integrator

It’s dangerous to follow this forum !! :bye:

 

Two days after I read about the secret ‘Shifter Pin 006’ issues.. :nuke:

 

My trusted travel companion suddenly comes up with the same faults as described.. (the first series 700 now clocking 85000 miles)

What’s that about?

 

I'm lucky compared to you @Outrunner, - I just need to stop/shut down.. :D

Power up, and let the gearbox do the jingling and rattling  down to 1, start and go.. :brr: NOT what we are used to hear from the otherwise, smooth gears :console:

 

I must find my personal Honda pusher, and make him a visit.. Sighs..!!

 

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outrunner

I went to the garage today to pull some panels off the bike so I could have alook to see if there was any obvious wiring anomalies. Before taking anything to bits I switched on and started the bike, it now shows the letter L in the gear indicator panel and the Drive mode indicator and Sport mode indicator are both showing, even when in neutral. Putting it into gear the L goes away and it shows 1st gear so methinks there is an electrical Gremlin at work. And before anyone says it, the battery checks out fine.

 

 

Andy.

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Andy m

Isn't L what it shows during the reset thing if the oil is too thick/cold to complete the process? 

 

Andy

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ChrisCB
18 minutes ago, Andy m said:

Isn't L what it shows during the reset thing if the oil is too thick/cold to complete the process? 

 

Andy

Yes, low oil temperature when reset was attempted.

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outrunner

Well it has sat in the garage all night but no reset was attempted today, I just switched it on to try it. When I started the engine the L vanished and was replaced with the flashing horizontal bar.This makes me think it is an electrical fault as opposed to mechanical.

 

Andy.

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Andy m

If it has started the process, one might suspect the D button of sticking or shorting or having a bad connection because this begins the move away from normal start? 

 

Andy

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outrunner
54 minutes ago, Dunnster said:

Not a side stand switch fault is it?

The side stand switch would only prevent it from starting, not stop the gears from changing. Anyway, I am off to check/clean every connection I can see.

 

Andy.

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Dunnster
18 minutes ago, outrunner said:

The side stand switch would only prevent it from starting, not stop the gears from changing. Anyway, I am off to check/clean every connection I can see.

 

Andy.

 

Yes, I understand that, I'm just thinking out loud to rule things out, but if it is faulty it could be sending it doolally when it's on the move? 

 

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