2014 NC750X dead in the garage

[Graham 3,132]

I have been using the NC for Christmas shopping and the last time I went out, when I started it, the dash would go blank and then back on.

I did this for a few blocks, not effecting the motor so I continued on. On the next stops, the bike became hard to start and I decided to get it home before it didn't start someplace I didn't want to be.

This afternoon I thought I would check to see if the battery was getting a charge while it was running. I started it up, it took it a bit but it started. As it ran, the dash started to go blank and back on for a few times and then it just quit. No lights, no electrics at all. All the fuses are good in the fuse box. The battery is 6 years old and would have taken it to pick up its replacement. I thought maybe that might be the culprit and still do so I plan on replacing it. The total lack of power is what is throwing me?

Any thoughts?

[Spindizzy 7,109]

A really bad battery can go open circuit and is effectively dead. Try a voltmeter across the terminals. Or a 12v bulb and a length of wire to see if it has any life at all. 

[Graham 3,132]

12.96v

[Ozzieflyer 15]

I had a similar issue when tried to start my NC once.

I turned the key, all good so far, then when I pushed the start button, nothing and dash went blank.  When I released start button the screen came back on and fuel pump kicked in like I had just turned the key on. 

I tried again, same scenario. 
I turned key off and on again, started straight away.

I put the battery on charge with my ctek charger and hasn’t happened since.

Judging by that it would be a battery issue.

Hope this helps.

Oz

[wjvh 999]

7 hours ago, Graham said:

12.96v

Should be about 14.4v.

probably a defunct battery; might be recoverable if you can get it on a trickle charge but at 6 yrs with (intermittent?) use it’s probably done for now. Get a good one for replacement, a Yuasa AGM.

[ste7ios 469]

7 hours ago, Graham said:

12.96v

How did you measured it?

 

To estimate battery’s condition, fully charge it, disconnect it and let it rest for at least 2 hours then take your measurement...

 

Voltage is only indicative of its status so you also need a load test: measure the voltage drop when starting the engine.

 

To check if the charging system is healthy you need a batter in good condition and measure a voltage greater that the battery and up to 14.4V - 14.7V with rpm > 2,500

Edited December 23, 2020 by ste7ios

[MatBin 5,080]

1 hour ago, wjvh said:

Should be about 14.4v.

probably a defunct battery; might be recoverable if you can get it on a trickle charge but at 6 yrs with (intermittent?) use it’s probably done for now. Get a good one for replacement, a Yuasa AGM.

Make sure you have the correct charger for future use if buying one of those types of batteries.

[Grumpy old man 4,670]

1 hour ago, wjvh said:

Should be about 14.4v.

probably a defunct battery; might be recoverable if you can get it on a trickle charge but at 6 yrs with (intermittent?) use it’s probably done for now. Get a good one for replacement, a Yuasa AGM.

Is that right?  I thought it was about 12.6 for battery and 14.4 for the charging rate but electricals baffle me.

[Spindizzy 7,109]

All good advice but if a bulb across the terminals doesn't beam bright for a minute or two. Bin the battery. 

If a display dips when you press the starter it's likely because the battery is dropping so much voltage under load. 

[Bugsy 175]

I would say 6 years is a good lifespan for a vehicle battery, particularly a bike battery. If you are going shopping and stopping (haha) the remaining life will quickly be sucked out of the battery. Testing covered by others though I would also check the battery terminals are clean and tight.

[dave 959]

The battery is old and needs replacing. My bike had all of your conditions it was replaced.

[rjp996 1,091]

Not having a battery tester for the draw, what I do is charge the battery - let it rest for an hr or so for the surface charge to dissipate in my damp garage... then i put a volt meter across it whilst starting it, using the starter as the current soak. I would expect during the draw on starting for the battery to stay above 9v, if cranking pulls the volts down below that its a sign its not up to it anymore 

 

 

[Slowboy 20,360]

12 hours ago, Graham said:

I have been using the NC for Christmas shopping and the last time I went out, when I started it, the dash would go blank and then back on.

I did this for a few blocks, not effecting the motor so I continued on. On the next stops, the bike became hard to start and I decided to get it home before it didn't start someplace I didn't want to be.

This afternoon I thought I would check to see if the battery was getting a charge while it was running. I started it up, it took it a bit but it started. As it ran, the dash started to go blank and back on for a few times and then it just quit. No lights, no electrics at all. All the fuses are good in the fuse box. The battery is 6 years old and would have taken it to pick up its replacement. I thought maybe that might be the culprit and still do so I plan on replacing it. The total lack of power is what is throwing me?

Any thoughts?

Some good advice on the battery above, but I would also check the multi plug on the instruments, the connections can get a bit furred up and benefit from a good clean with switch cleaner and a dielectric grease to protect them now and again.

Edited December 23, 2020 by slowboy

[ste7ios 469]

8 hours ago, Grumpy old man said:

Is that right?  I thought it was about 12.6 for battery and 14.4 for the charging rate but electricals baffle me.

No. It depends on the battery type (flooded, Gel, AGM) and the manufacturer...

 

For Yuasa / Varta that is 13V to 12.9V at 77°F. It will be some mV higher above that, some mV lower when colder.

 

At 12.5V is 50% charged, empty at 12V...

 

For other manufacturers is about 0.1V lower.

 

The charging voltage depends on the engine’s RPM, battery condition and how charged it is. It can be as high as 15.5V (thankfully I have never seen that) and must be always greater than battery’s voltage. In practice you should see 13.7V to 14.7V.

 

Service annual describes the proper way to take a right measurement and the necessary reference values.

 

Yuasa has a nice and easy to read Technical Manual.

[Graham 3,132]

Looks like it is more than the battery.

I replaced it this morning with a new one.

Didn't even make a little spark when I connected the positive terminal.

Went to check the main fuse and found this.

It has melted and I can't separate the individual pieces...

 

[wjvh 999]

That can happen if you try the starter motor excessively . Reckon the route cause was still a dead battery,  but that problem has been compounded by over-running the starter. You should be able to pick it all apart, put a new battery in and make some sort of repair to the fixings.

[Graham 3,132]

9 minutes ago, wjvh said:

 You should be able to pick it all apart, put a new battery in and make some sort of repair to the fixings.

No, it looks like it is "fused" together pretty good.

Looks like the dealer has a job for the new year.

[davebike 943]

Well that a common problem but mostly on older bikes

As far as I am aware you cannot buy the red plug/cover exept as part of a new loom but you can get a plain plug but

I usually replace it with 4 sheelded 1/4" femail spades and add  a tag with the layout and colours of the wires

The overheating is caused by the main power feed connector failing and heating making it fail more  very common

[Graham 3,132]

Update on the NC.

I called the Honda shop today to see what's up with the 750.

There was a recall on the relay on my 2014 that did not get completed when I had it checked after I purchased it used.

So they are replacing the relay.  They are saying the harness will be replaced as it was damaged due to the relay.

The harness is on back order until March 24th, not that there would be much riding until then.

Thank goodness for 2 insured bikes!

[Trev 18,576]

Good to hear that Honda are sorting it for you (as they should of course), hopefully you'll be back up and running for Spring 

[listener 11,158]

45 minutes ago, Graham said:

There was a recall on the relay on my 2014 that did not get completed when I had it checked after I purchased it used.

 

I've still got the recall letter for my previous NC750X DCT; dated September 2015.

 

My bike was okay and the "starter magnetic switch" didn't need replacing. 

[wjvh 999]

Result 👍

[MikeBike 5,005]

On 14/01/2021 at 18:55, Graham said:

There was a recall on the relay on my 2014 that did not get completed when I had it checked after I purchased it used.

For any others that are wondering if it (or any other recalls) are due here is the link to Honda's page to check for your VIN number..

https://www.honda.co.uk/motorcycles/my-bike/maintenance/recalls-and-updates.html

[Graham 3,132]

The Honda dealer called yesterday and left a message to call.

Picked the bike up this afternoon. NC also stands for No Charge!

[DaveM59 1,603]

Thats nice to hear. Cannot beat FOC!

For what it's worth the starter relay is a common part, as used on my 2004 Piaggio X9, the 2012 Integra I had was identical to my X9.

There was a recall from Piaggio for these as well many years ago so whoever makes these (Marelli?) occasionally drops the ball on QC. I have several spares but never needed them so far.