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Removing a screw on oil filter


MatBin

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Just seen TMF remove a very stubborn oil filter (from his Triumph).

Used all the usual tricks but nothing worked, although he did admit he didn't whack the screwdriver right through. Ended up drilling holes in the filter removing tool then screwing self tappers into the filter through the holes in the tool (clearance holes in tool).

That shifted the bugger.

Useful idea if all else fails, he didn't have a strap wrench though.

Worth a look.

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Using a specific cup type removal tool should always do the job. Have used chain type, but you need to be careful you don’t damage any thing else on the bike.

 

Most of the time these probs are caused because they are done up far too tightly. I once saw the torque setting Honda quoted, it was bloody daft.

 

I ignore that setting and just use my hand and common sense. No probs with leaks or removal ever. 

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alhendo1

I haven't watched the video but if access allows I've used a piece of reasonable gritty sandpaper wrapped round the filter and a bit of elbow grease and it should do the trick👍....there's a special place in hell reserved for the person who put the oil filter where it is on the MX5 Mk1 engine😅....

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Andy m

There are too many idiots who think tighter is better and the bar with numbers that was calibrated in 1973 makes them special. My favourite is when they set the numbers bar to top limit (25 Nm +/-2 means try for 25 not 27.999) wait for the click then give it half a turn for luck 😩

 

If hammering a screwdriver through, use a big one. The bigger the debris the bigger the chance it will drop onto the workshop floor. I like the wood screw trick 👍

 

BMW oilheads had a bad design. The spin on is up inside the sump with an eighth gap all round for the cup socket. You can't get anything else on like grips or a screwdriver. If the last idiot distorted the cartridge the only two options are to hammer the cup socket on and hope it doesn't crush it before it turns, or work out how to get enough bike off the engine to remove the sump. 

 

I will never complain about Honda leaving them in fresh air and gathering a few spots of rust. I do like the K&N filters with a normal size nut welded on the end, it means you aren't using a flimsy cup on a flimsy cartridge. 

 

Andy

Edited by Andy m
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riders in the storm
11 hours ago, alhendo1 said:

.there's a special place in hell reserved for the person who put the oil filter where it is on the MX5 Mk1 engine

 

After he left Mazda he got a job with Ford and designed the 1.0 Ecoboost engine.  To prevent home DIY he put the oil filter behind the engine, between the engine and the bulkhead, stuck a hot exhaust manifold in the way and then for good measure he set a torque figure to tighten it to ten times any common sense value.

 

It took me an entire weekend on my back under the lads Fiesta to get the filter off....:angry:

 

 

.

Edited by riders in the storm
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trisaki
21 hours ago, riders in the storm said:

 

After he left Mazda he got a job with Ford and designed the 1.0 Ecoboost engine.  To prevent home DIY he put the oil filter behind the engine, between the engine and the bulkhead, stuck a hot exhaust manifold in the way and then for good measure he set a torque figure to tighten it to ten times any common sense value.

 

It took me an entire weekend on my back under the lads Fiesta to get the filter off....:angry:

 

 

.

Had similar  on a 1.0l nissin micra - took me ten minutes  to find the filter and about  half an hour to get the bugger off !  

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Not to attract the scolding that would be valid in this case - I spend many years commuting on Rockers line into London by train - to that end I had the much neglected £500 'station car' that faithfully did its job year after year after year,  putting up with the abused it attracted from begin left in a station car park all day, and passing MOT after MOT with no maintenance - up to the point when it failed an MOT after about 8 years for an oil leak.... from the filter, it had been on so long that it had started to rust through..... I hasten to add this is not how i treat my bikes and other cars... Filter did however come off easily.... (Punto 1.0s a car that could put up with a lot..)

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My Mazda Demio was a sod to get off, I brought oil Filter pliers which work. I must watch Andy the Missenden Flyer getting to grips with the problem, when you fit the new filter it should be as hand tight as you can get it, but now being an extremely vulnerable old git who needs shielding for his own protection I also nip it up a bit without damaging it.

Sometimes I can remove them with my hands, you need to grip it tight and hold the pressure until the 'O' ring gives up.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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stephenmcg

I think I may have posted this before.
if you get a wide strip of sand Paper and fold smooth side inwards.

you get rough side against filter and your hand.

you can generate sufficient torque to get even a stubborn filter free.

smcg in cold glasgow

 

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trisaki

Had to repair a crashed cbf600 for a guy who said  that one minute  he was riding  along  quite  briskly  next on his ear - didn't  know  why / I found out after replacing  alot of plastic and handlebars  etc - started  the bike up and oil poured out of a rusty hole in his oil filter which was  at the front  under his downpipes - obviously  crashed  on his own oil slick 

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Steve Case

I remember the recessed oilhead filter, luckily mine was unscathed and I bought a really good quality filter cup so never had trouble with that area of the bike.

 

On the other hand the bike turned out to have very approximate odometer values and the clutch wore out after I bought it ,  BMW boxer clutch replacement, mmmm fun!

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1 hour ago, Steve Case said:

I remember the recessed oilhead filter, luckily mine was unscathed and I bought a really good quality filter cup so never had trouble with that area of the bike.

 

On the other hand the bike turned out to have very approximate odometer values and the clutch wore out after I bought it ,  BMW boxer clutch replacement, mmmm fun!

I always serviced my oilheads myself, so never had the issue. The sandpaper trick seemed to work for others though. Clutches could last well over 50,000 miles if they weren’t abused. A friend and I put a recon gearbox in my R1100RS without much difficulty. It’s a fair bit of work raising the rear end in the air but the process is straightforward. I wouldn’t fancy doing one on the pre l/c R1200RT though...

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My airhead boxer went over 100k on its original clutch, I only replaced it as a precaution. My K75 didn't last anywhere near as long, very disappointed, not only with that but other things as well, much poorer quality bike, last BM I ever bought.

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1 hour ago, MatBin said:

My airhead boxer went over 100k on its original clutch, I only replaced it as a precaution. My K75 didn't last anywhere near as long, very disappointed, not only with that but other things as well, much poorer quality bike, last BM I ever bought.

I never put a clutch in either my K100RS or K75S. The former was better built than the latter, with a glass fibre rather than plastic fairing. If you think they were poor don’t buy a new BMW, they’re terrible by comparison IMHO. Then again current Honda build quality is nowhere near as good as it was in the nineties and early noughties.

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Steve Case

No idea what age the clutch was, but I suspect the previous owner was a courier around north london, lots of on/off throttle and riding the clutch would speed up the wear.

 

On the Honda build quality, I'm not sure thie NC is a step down from the 700 Transalp I had before

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