Rear Axle stucked

[Andre K 14]

Hi All.

I am new to the forum.

I have a 2018 NC750DCT, 12500km on the clock.

 

Today i went to our local bikeshop to have the chain,Front and rear brakes replaced.

After a while the mechanic called me amd informed me that he cant get the rear axle out.Its seems like the rear axle is stucked. 

 

He advised me to go to Honda.

 

I remember that sometime ago the Honda mechanic also struggled with this when they adjusted my chain for me.(Bike was still under warrenty)

 

Problem is my Bike is now out of warranty.

 

Well i have booked my NC in at Honda for next week Friday for them to carry out the work.

 

Maybe someone on the forum can advise on the problem for me.

 

Any other members had the same problem?

 

Also will Honda fix this as the problem started when the bike was still under warrenty.

 

Thanx alot Guys.

 

 

Edited February 12, 2021 by Andre K
Spell

[wjvh 999]

Spray some oil or something at both ends as much as possible, then get some sort of metal rod or an old socket , slightly small diameter than the axle. Make sure all things which could interfere out if they way, and whack it with increasing power with a metal hammer or mallet. Make sure the direction of the blows is as much in the line straight down the axle as much as possible. Once it starts to move spray more oil/lube at the emerging end. Keep bashing - you might need a longer drift (metal rod). If you get really stuck then a mechanical or hydraulic puller might be required. It will come out though. Probably just a lack of grease has caused some binding or perhaps a seal has failed and gotten a bit mashed up so you need to blitz through that.

[Andre K 14]

Thank you Wjvh!!

I will see next week what Honda will come up with.

[MatBin 5,080]

I would also ask the dealer to come at least part way to the cost as the problem started during warranty period and sounds like they never really resolved the problem previously. The axle should be a reasonably tight fit as should the wheel to axle but not to the point of not being removable without violence.

[Andy m 23,502]

Welcome to the forum.

 

Apologies for asking stupid questions, but I get the impression english might not be your first language (where as a close approximation of english is my only language  )?

 

When you say axle, how far did the workshop get?

 

To adjust the chain they would only undo the nut on the end and then move the sliders. If the nut won't move it is either cross threaded, corroded or over tight. The dealer (generally the lowest skilled and least caring, so not sure why your mechanic sent you back there) will never admit this, they'll blame someone adjusting the chain. They will spray it with a release agent like plus-gas and then apply force, possibly with the same air-tool they used to overtighten it in the first place. Don't let them refit the same nut and encourage them to use a thread gauge to confirm the thread is still OK. 

 

If the actual axle, the bar through the wheel, won't slide out it, to me it's less of a problem. It's simply because Honda won't use grease. As Will says just get some oil in there and get it moving with a hammer. A thin extension bar is a good drift tool, better than a screwdriver that will leave a mark. Make sure they grease it up when they put it back. If it won't go back because it is too wide I would say you should get a new one as good will after warranty, the part is wrong. If it is bent you need a new one but Honda may well claim you've jumping over things or doing were wheelies. Get them to give you the old axle, you can roll it on a flat surface to see if it is bent.

 

Let us know what happens, we can try to answer more questions as they come up.

 

Andy

 

 

Edited February 12, 2021 by Andy m

[shiggsy 529]

Put it on the side stand and squirt penetrating oil into it regularly, leave it overnight.  The problem with trying to drift it out is you are hammering the threaded end. I'd leave the nut on but just undo it a few turns, then put a lump of wood against it and hammer that.  If that doesn't get anywhere then you may have t hammer it directly, you may end up having to replace it.

 

Next time the axle goes back, make sure it gets greased first.

[Tex 36,817]

Been happening for decades, I have known rear wheel spindles so rusted in that applying heat and the biggest hammer in the shop were the only solution. It’s never pretty. Good luck. 
 

When I did the PDI on my Integra I took the spindles out and greased them they were as dry as dust. 

[Andre K 14]

2 hours ago, Andy m said:

Welcome to the forum.

 

Apologies for asking stupid questions, but I get the impression english might not be your first language (where as a close approximation of english is my only language  )?

 

When you say axle, how far did the workshop get?

 

To adjust the chain they would only undo the nut on the end and then move the sliders. If the nut won't move it is either cross threaded, corroded or over tight. The dealer (generally the lowest skilled and least caring, so not sure why your mechanic sent you back there) will never admit this, they'll blame someone adjusting the chain. They will spray it with a release agent like plus-gas and then apply force, possibly with the same air-tool they used to overtighten it in the first place. Don't let them refit the same nut and encourage them to use a thread gauge to confirm the thread is still OK. 

 

If the actual axle, the bar through the wheel, won't slide out it, to me it's less of a problem. It's simply because Honda won't use grease. As Will says just get some oil in there and get it moving with a hammer. A thin extension bar is a good drift tool, better than a screwdriver that will leave a mark. Make sure they grease it up when they put it back. If it won't go back because it is too wide I would say you should get a new one as good will after warranty, the part is wrong. If it is bent you need a new one but Honda may well claim you've jumping over things or doing were wheelies. Get them to give you the old axle, you can roll it on a flat surface to see if it is bent.

 

Let us know what happens, we can try to answer more questions as they come up.

 

Andy

 

 

Hi Andy!

Yes LOL I am Afrikaans speaking From Cape Town South Africa.

 

Thank you for your advise,I am taking the bike in Tuesday.

 

I will keep you guys posted.

[Andy m 23,502]

 

Welkom

 

Ek het in Capetown gewoon toe ek twee jaar oud was.

 

Andy

[Xactly 5,372]

I’d use a round bar I have that came with my socket set. It’s chrome vanadium and is a smaller diameter than the axle. I would prefer this to hitting the axle nut partly threaded on as the thread could be damaged. Just my two cents though...

[Andre K 14]

Hi Guys,

 

So today Honda struggled for almost an hour to get the rear axle out.

 

On inspection it was found that water came in through the 2 wheelbearings and seals.

The left rear wheel bearing seized completly.

 

The mechanic told me that never in his life did he ever seen something like this on a NC.

Pit marks was also found on the rear axle,the axle was not bend at all.

 

Please advise where and how i can share photos with you.

 

Thank you.

[Rocker66 34,411]

Hi Download post image (its free)  when you have done that click the upload button and select your picture. With choose images button. Once your picture has uploaded you will see a selection of option. Highlight the one that says Hotlink for forums and save it. All you have to do then is paste it in your post. That probably sounds more complicated than it actually is.

I hope this helps.

 

[Andre K 14]

Hope it works!

 

 

 

[Taipan 110]

2 hours ago, Andre K said:

Hope it works!

 

 

 

Wow, that is a mess! Best to check your front axle isn't the same?

[Grumpy old man 4,673]

3 hours ago, Andre K said:

Hi Guys,

 

So today Honda struggled for almost an hour to get the rear axle out.

 

On inspection it was found that water came in through the 2 wheelbearings and seals.

The left rear wheel bearing seized completly.

 

The mechanic told me that never in his life did he ever seen something like this on a NC.

Pit marks was also found on the rear axle,the axle was not bend at all.

 

Please advise where and how i can share photos with you.

 

Thank you.

Do you use a power wash when washing the bike? I'm just thinking why and how the water has been able to get into the bearings and sometimes a power wash  directed on to the seal can cause the problem. 

Edited February 16, 2021 by Grumpy old man

[Andy m 23,502]

Glad its out. 

 

Lloyd is spot on with what Honda will come up with and might have a point. I still find it unacceptable we have to put up with designs that don't withstand real life use. 

 

The Thai built Hondas have a history of bad (Chinese) wheel bearings so I'd certainly want them to source branded (SKF et.) as replacements. Grease on assembly would have made a difference too. 

 

Andy

[wjvh 999]

My guess is that a seal or spacer hasn’t been aligned properly, the soft parts have then been damaged and allowed water and dirt to get in and then the problems start. Be gentle and precise when putting any wheel back in place - I found a mashed up seal on my cx500 recently so as a precaution I changed the lot, seals, bearings, etc. This would also have been caused by some misalignment and then things being tightened up out of place. 
Andre - glad you got this sorted, probably just a one off bit of bad luck. 👍

[dave 961]

It could be a flood damage bike, I have a bike that got dropped in a river and a sealed for life bearing failed in the transmission some years later. 

If a bike or car sits around in water above axial for a week what happens to them? 

[Andre K 14]

Hi Guys,

 

Just picked up the Honda.

 

All is good now.

 

They replaced both bearings and seals.

The axle does have some pit marks on but as per the mechanic this should not be a problem as the rear wheel will run on the 2 bearings.

Axle was also not bend so all good,i will see in a month or 2 when its time to replace the tyres if the Local bike shop will struggle again to remove the rear axle.

 

in the meantime i will source a good secondhand rear axle with no pitmarks on and will replace with tyres.

 

Thank you all

I am glad i came across this forum.

 

[Rocker66 34,411]

Pleased to read that your problem was solved.

[MikeBike 5,005]

On 16/02/2021 at 12:53, Rocker66 said:

Hi Download post image (its free)  when you have done that click the upload button and select your picture.

 

On 16/02/2021 at 12:53, Rocker66 said:

 

You don't need to download anything (and best not imho) just go to https://postimages.org/ and Upload image

[davebike 943]

As a pro mechanic I say to ALL if you have a low milage bike take the wheel spindles out and GREASE them and put a little grease into the oil seals  takes a little time but saves a LOT of hassel  my NC when I changed the tyres at 4k5 miles and 20 mounths needed a litttle perswasion to get both out

Greasing the head races is the next project

 

[Andy m 23,502]

Sad isn't it 

 

When I get a new bike I have to:

 

Remove the OE tyres and place into storage for when I sell

Grease the axles, bearings, swing arm linkages, lever pivots etc.

Slacken off the chain*

See if I need to drain excess or add extra oil*

Fit mirror extenders

Go round the electrical connectors with silicone spray

Check there is free movement and slack in the clutch and throttle cables*

ACF-50 the lot

 

*do this after the 600 "service" I've had them put back to wear faster settings before.

 

This is before I can even think about such joys as fitting spotlights to be able to see at night, a seat that places comfort over looking like a manga cartoon, remove the pillion pegs, fit spacers under any screen, luggage....

 

Two thoughts spring to mind:

 

1. I'd like to buy in kit form. Deliver the bike on it's shipping pallet and I'll build it up myself. Should make it cheaper and save time.

2. I wonder if I buy a scooter they'd get closer?

 

Andy

[Xactly 5,372]

Plus the bike specific ones like remove and grease the front engine stud on the older Moto-Guzzis . Do the same to the exhaust stud nuts on BMW oilheads. Don’t even start on RE UCE models - like you say, those would have been much better supplied in completely knocked down form.

[MatBin 5,080]

Isn't that what pdi is supposed to be? Isn't that what we pay for?

Is this a recent thing, I don't recall any of my new bikes needing this, albeit a long time ago.