Regulator

[noj 365]

How would I test this?

Reason?  a very very hot battery today, in fact, it got so hot that it was venting, I could hear a very high pitched noise and wondered what the eck it was, opened the battery cover and it went louder, took battery off and I had to wear my gloves to take it off the bike, measured the voltage and it was close on 14.7 volts.

I must add here that this is from a 2015 750X and the battery is always on trickle charge since I totally flattened it about 4 years ago.

So, is it the regulator.............or Battery.

 

[Tex 36,817]

 

1 hour ago, noj said:

So, is it the regulator.............or Battery.

 

 

There’s a certain amount of suck it and see needed here. It’s most probably the rectifier, but it’s perfectly possible for a battery to develop a high resistance which forces the rectifier to try and overcharge to compensate. Easiest way to test is to borrow a battery and see if the rectifier still overcharges it. If it does it’s the rectum fryer, if not it’s the battery. Who’s near Wigan and can help?

[noj 365]

Cheers Tex, 

Im not sure if the battery from my wifes cmx 500  ( Honda rebel) will fit or be suitable to do the test.

And the worry is, will it fry the wifes battery?

 

Ill check. 

Edited March 30, 2021 by noj
added content

[bigbird 66]

I can give you the testing info for the charging circuit from the '16 and up models. 

I assume that it would be similar to your model, as it's testing the connections and stator coil resistance

 

First you need to test the regulator itself.

Measure the running engine voltage at the the battery terminals with the battery connected, of course.

With the high beam of your headlight on, run the engine at 5 000 rpm.

If the charging voltage is > than 15.5V, go to the next steps.  

 

Battery charge line inspection:  

       1) turn ignition switch OFF

       2) disconnect the 2 pole black colour connector from the regulator/rectifier

       3) measure the voltage between the 2 pole connector's red (+) wire and ground; there should be battery voltage present all the time

 

Ground line inspection:

      1) turn ignition switch OFF

      2) disconnect the 2 pole black colour connector from the regulator/rectifier

      3) check for continuity between the green wire and ground; there should be continuity at all times

     

Charging coil inspection:

      1) disconnect the alternator 3 pole black connector

      2) measure the resistance between the alternator's 2 outside yellow wire terminals 

      3) you should get 0.1 - 0.5 ohms at 20C ambient temp

      4) check separately for continuity between each of the alternator's 3 terminals and ground

           you will be checking between each yellow wire and ground; the result you're looking for is no continuity

 

Replace the stator if the resistance is out of spec or if any wire has continuity to ground.

 

 

Edited March 30, 2021 by bigbird

[noj 365]

listen to this lads.

ive never come artoss this before.

it was still whistling when I put it down on the floor.

 

those wires just go to a USB charging unit, nothing else.

 

Oh, and cheers Terry.

Edited March 30, 2021 by noj
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[noj 365]

This was around an hour after taking the battery off, it was still slightly warm.

might just pop it back on and see how it goes, keeping an eye on of coarse.

might just test the voltage while it revs and see what it reads.

 

chuck that, cant upload an image, it was reading 12.73 volts.

 

Edited March 30, 2021 by noj
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[noj 365]

re fitted the battery, volt tester at the ready and cracked her up, idle revs and 14.05 ish, nothing above 14.07. volts

5000 RPM revs.........14.56 volts at the most, never went above that but jumped around between that and 14.40volts. 

[bigbird 66]

Seems like your charging system is fine based on your voltage readings.

That screeching noise from the battery is not good.

Your battery is likely on its way south.

Time for a new one I'd say.

Edited March 30, 2021 by bigbird

[fj_stuart 4,741]

If you need a new battery (and it sounds a lot like you do) give these guys a try:

 

https://www.mdsbattery.co.uk/

 

I recently got a Yuasa battery for my FJ from them to replace the one that exploded.

[noj 365]

Thanks for the link but pulled the trigger on one from amazon, £80, free delivery. 

I'm going to follow the above advice regarding checking other things just to rule out any possible problems. 

Don't want to fry a new battery at that price. 

 

Why is it that anything that is associated with a motor cycle is so bloody expensive. 

 

Just had to buy a new battery for the car, it must be ten times bigger and is a real quality one, not a cheapo, £78.

[noj 365]

Just checked my order for a new battery, they are sending me the YTZ12S, not the YTZ14S. 

 

[Trumpet 215]

The only way to boil a battery is excess voltage .. You can have a faulty regulator/rectifier that fails when it gets hot after a few miles ..

[noj 365]

Then the only way to test it is get out and ride now we all can, I will report back. 

[Trumpet 215]

Rather than boil the battery, something like this would help ? Other makes/Brands are avaiable ..