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Bent Keys


ncmf

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Hi, I have now bent two keys. I have got 1 new one but its obvious that its going to get expensive to keep replacing them.

Anyone got any ideas on how I can straighten one. Its quite bent. Would it help to heat it up, and if so would i need to separate the metal from the plastic to prevent damaging it? Or is it worth straightening it at all, would it weaken it too much?

Mike

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Awkward one I'm afraid without anyone looking at them. How did you manage to bend both of them...?

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one has twisted slightly as its been turned in the lock. Its still working but wouldn't want it as the only key.

The other I kicked when it was in the tank lock at the side (mines an S) - my fault, but it must have been weak.

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You aren't haveing much luck are you. Well probably best to buy one brand new key now, and keep your bent one as emergency back up... Just my tuppence worth.

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Sorry I couldn't help much...it's just such an awkward situation to be in.

Edited by wozza
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Guest hairnet

just cut another and keep the fob taped to it - sod buying a fob and coding it they were 65+ vat 5-6 years ago itll have gone up now.........

all modern japanese keys are made of cheese

had a honda from a mate that hed broke both keys off the fobs - keep the fobs ringed to the keys and the hiss picks up the signal when you try and start the bike - the module is close to the head stem

oops - bung yer key in a vice - straigtens it better but youll need a key eventually

Edited by hairnet
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re taping. I tried this and it didnt work. Apparently some tin foil wrapped around both keys helps, so I am going to try this next

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  • 1 month later...
Guest Monkeyuk

hay i cut keys for a living and im having the same problem my ignition is so stiff(keeps catching when i put it in and tack it out) the key keeps twisting i think its a fault but try proving it, no chance all i did is put my key in a vice nice big one, than very carefully mm by mm twist the key back, but be worded the more you do this the weaker the key will get and it will snap in the end im contacting Honda i suggest you do the same!

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Rev Ken

hay i cut keys for a living and im having the same problem my ignition is so stiff(keeps catching when i put it in and tack it out) the key keeps twisting i think its a fault but try proving it, no chance all i did is put my key in a vice nice big one, than very carefully mm by mm twist the key back, but be worded the more you do this the weaker the key will get and it will snap in the end im contacting Honda i suggest you do the same!

The trouble is that it costs an arm and a leg to get a key, get it cut - and then get it programmed - the last bit is the expensive bit. Honda keys are notoriously 'bendy', and on other forums there are methods of programming keys yourself (don't know if it is the same for a NC700 bikes) or other strategies such as just getting a new key cut and attaching the bent/broken key with the programmed chip to it. However I hope you don't break the key in the lock!

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Hi Grant, I did contact Graftons Honda and they said that they would charge as normal as it wasn't a warranty issue. I argued that I hadnt done anything particularly reckless, but they said that other people weren't having the same problem - I suspect that isnt the case - so they wouldn't be able to do anything.

Mine did actually free up a little a few days after applying 3-1 oil, I just noticed this yesterday. In fact, I tried applying oil twice, only after the second time did it help, perhaps it needs to be squirted in generously.

Its probably a good idea to oil preemptively, before any stiffness starts. I have also put oil in the other lock.

I am going to put the banjaxed on in a vice, when I get hold of one, so might save the 80 quid yet!

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I must admit the ignition barrel is nasty shite. I thought I was going to have call out Honda Rescue recently because the key wouldn't go into the ignition, and that was inspite of regular oiling. Definitely poor on a modern machine.

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Guest chris64

Agree with all the above. I've only had my NCx 2 weeks and am already being very careful with unlocking the steering column cos its so fussy about how it's handled (all kinds of inappropriate analogies spring to mind). And just getting the key in the hole isn't easy. (As is so often the case in life!) So I think it is a design flaw. Its also a nuisance because if you have a bunch of keys attached its awkward to actually manipulate the ignition cos the other keys are all in the way. A great bike (or should I say ride?) in many ways - but not all.

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Rev Ken

Oh dear - oil isn't always a good idea in these locks as it collects muck and can stick up the pins after some time. A dry lubricant is better, such as graphite, but perhaps this is where WD40 or ACF50 might work - even if they aren't true lubricants. I wonder if there is a locksmith on this forum who could give a 'professional' opinion on what lubricant to use?

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Guest Monkeyuk

i cut keys for a living rev ken is spot on any wet lubricant can attract dust dirt etc. and gum up the lock Graphite powder is good or at a push just run a pencil over your key to get you out of trouble, but im still going to push this with honda if the key twists in the barrel because the searing lock dose not disengage as iv experienced then that is a fault, if your RK chain had snapped and damaged your bike then honda would of repaired the bike so what's the difrance they should replace a broken key as long as you report the lock problem to your dealer or as im doing to honda direct

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Guest Flighttime

I have had to straighten my key twice. Just tweeked it with plyers and it works perfectly. On my bike I find its the Seat/Tank release lock that is doing the damage. It takes quite a bit of effort to get the seat to fully unlock, and the key only goes in a short distance so there is not a lot of support. My ignition barrel is very smooth.. no issues there.

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On my bike I find its the Seat/Tank release lock that is doing the damage. It takes quite a bit of effort to get the seat to fully unlock, and the key only goes in a short distance so there is not a lot of support. My ignition barrel is very smooth.. no issues there.

+1. That's the reason I'm looking for a shorten duplicated key without chip just for the not the tank and seat/tank lock.

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Rev Ken

Don't you have a Mister Minit franchise over there?

http://www.minitspain.com/en/index.php

They told me they would copy my NC700 key here for 30 € -including the chip. Actually they are trying to locate a shorter key without chip for me, just for the not the tank

It isn't the cost of the key with chip or its cutting - it is the programming that 'Mister Minit' is unlikely to be able to do so you need to take your bike plus key to a Honda agent - unless you can do it yourself as some have in other forums.

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I noticed today that there was no delayed effect from oiling, the key had naturally straightened. I'm not sure if oiling did anything at all.

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Guest Monkeyuk

i cut my own key using a silca hon63fp i use this for side lock and my back box iv seen some one use a cut down key and a bottle top just place the key top in the bottle top with super glue or there is some grate plastic pellets that you put in boiling water and model around the key

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Don't you have a Mister Minit franchise over there?

http://www.minitspain.com/en/index.php

They told me they would copy my NC700 key here for 30 € -including the chip. Actually they are trying to locate a shorter key without chip for me, just for the not the tank

It isn't the cost of the key with chip or its cutting - it is the programming that 'Mister Minit' is unlikely to be able to do so you need to take your bike plus key to a Honda agent - unless you can do it yourself as some have in other forums.

I will double check with them, but they assured me there was no need to go to the Honda dealer, so they must be copying the chip too. They had a lot of keys with chips for a lot of car/bikes manufactures, so this is not a new business for them...

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Guest martroy

I must admit I haven't had a problem with the keys bending but I do find the key doesn't always go into the ignition lock cleanly..needs a bit of fiddling, so I had a look today at the key and came to the conclusion the problem is with the key not the lock. The key is tapered in 1 direction but only vaguely rounded on the edge that pushes open the sliding flap in the lock, so with a bit of care, I used a fine file to put a taper on the wide sides trying to make sure it was the same on both side and it seems to work. The shallower angle seems to allow the key to push open the flap and align itself with the lock mechanism much easier. Give it a try.

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