Chain lubrication

[lipsee 1,351]

I realise this looks abit naff ,but it should keep on the oillly grease on the chain and keep off the salt www.honda-montesa.es/motos/modelo.php?m=NC700X&accesorio=si Protector de Cadena 08001-NM7-012 sorry I am not terribly o faye, with the black arts of setting up a link

Use decent lube and apply when chain is warm so you wont have fling. Also salt will still get under the bike and on the chain. I think that cover looks pointless

I would prefer a full chaincase,but its better then a naked chain and at least it will keep the back end pretty free of gunk....

[Guest xamagi]

I do mostly road and motorway. I lube every 500km. This amounts to do it once a week. It takes 5 min. so no big deal.

[Guest jdearauj]

So finally got a Tutoro installed and am sort of happy with it. Went through the installation procedure, but the oil is not coming out as expected. What setting do people have it set to and how quickly is the oil dripping out?

[Dave D 567]

I have mine set to 1 3/4 turns at the moment don't forget that the viscosity of the oil will be thicker in cold weather so it may need some fine tuning.

[Guest Naz]

I use chainsaw chain oil. Every 200 or so miles, soon after a ride when chain still warm, applied with a paint brush. Its thick so not too much fling. On my previous bike I used it for more than 36K miles without having to replace the chain or sprockets! I don't think I even needed to adjust the chain. Great stuff, not too expensive. You can get a 1L can for about £5 which will last a looong time. Also I think that if you oil the chain manually, it gives you an opportunity to pick up on anything else that might need your attention like nails in/condition of the rear tyre - that kind of thing.

[Guest scrumpymike]

MCN gave the solid graphite block system a good review the week before last. Can't remember the details but I'll look them up again as I'm interested.

[Guest Lockon2]

They don't do the graphite block for our bikes yet, but anyone interested just need to email them with their bike model, the more that do this the sooner they will make it.

Be safe

[Guest Nomad71]

chainsaw oil? hhhmmm good idea i guess chains on those things get a pretty rigourous workout too!!! on my first chain driven bike done first lube the weekend, used castrol o ring chain lube seems ok, was looking at muc off chain doc for cleaning just wondered if anyone had any experience or opinion of this? still after reading on here brush and cleaner seems to be ok then spray lube and wipe off excess. one question tho after cleaning would coat of acf50 be a good idea? then lube on top of that or just leave the acf50?

[Guest kennysut]

Now using Motul Road Chain Lube as a grease based spray pack lube which doesnt fling. Highly recommende! Is this available in U.K.?

Edited January 1, 2013 by kennysut

[Guest Crusty]

Funny you should say that Nomad71, as today I gave my whole bike, including the chain, a deep clean.

My way of doing the chain is a good spray with Muc Off chain cleaner. I wait for a few minutes before a good going over with a proper chain brush, followed by a good wash along with the rest of the bike. Once dry, I then give the chain a good soaking with ACF50 which seems to lube well, so I'll have a few rides, followed by an application of Würth dry chain lube.

Everyone has their own way of chain maintenance, but this seems to be working for me. I've clocked up nearly 4000 miles and my chain & sprocket still look brand new (and not needed any adjustment.)

[roddy 845]

ACF50 is all the spray you will ever need for keeping rust at bay,lubing and keeping the bike in tip top condition, the trouble is its so expensive anyone know where you can get some a little bit cheaper? £15.00 a can is a lot of money.Mind you ACF50 is top quality stuff so you get what you pay for I suppose

[Guest Crusty]

Yeah, it is is expensive roddy, but its small beer compared to a new chain and sprocket. Its particularly awesome at keeping chain corrosion at bay over winter. I also give the underside of the bike and the swingarms a good dosing after a wash. I've used about 2/3 tin in 4000 miles, so that works out at about 10 quid. Not much at all in the grand scheme of things.

[steelhorseuk 1,690]

After every ride, I use motoroil to lube the chain.

 

I put a cloth rag down to cover the wheel from splash and any drippage and apply with a paint brush to both sides.

 

Then before I take off on my next trip as part of my pre-flight check I remove the cloth rag protecting from splash and oil drippage and apply some Catrol Chain lube liberally.

 

I prefer this little regime rather than relying on an automatic oiler as I can check everything is okay before I set off everytime.

 

Mark

 

Happy New Year to all....      

[Guest Crusty]

I agree Mark. An auto oiler isn't for me as I prefer to do it myself rather than rely on something that does it automatically. I'd be too worried whether or not its working properly. Besides, it only takes seconds for a routine squirt with lube.

[roddy 845]

Your right Ian small beer in the grand scheme of things will still try and see if there is any in the January sales though and a happy new year as well.

[Guest Crusty]

The business end yesterday after a good sorting out............

 

[Guest Silver Hawk]

The business end yesterday after a good sorting out............

 

Looks good...do you want to come and do mine? 

[Guest Nomad71]

Funny you should say that Nomad71, as today I gave my whole bike, including the chain, a deep clean.

My way of doing the chain is a good spray with Muc Off chain cleaner. I wait for a few minutes before a good going over with a proper chain brush, followed by a good wash along with the rest of the bike. Once dry, I then give the chain a good soaking with ACF50 which seems to lube well, so I'll have a few rides, followed by an application of Würth dry chain lube.

Everyone has their own way of chain maintenance, but this seems to be working for me. I've clocked up nearly 4000 miles and my chain & sprocket still look brand new (and not needed any adjustment.)

Cheers crusty will give it a go, did my chain on Sunday didn't clean just gave it coating with the acf got its first service sat will pick up some muc off chain cleaner then,

[Guest scrumpymike]

Having read all this good stuff, I'm beginning to favour the new graphite block auto-lube system with occasional sparing application of oil/WD-40/ACF-50 to help the graphite migrate into all the nooks and crannies. In the meantime tho I'll wait for more feedback from users of the graphite stuff.

[Guest Emil]

I really wouldn't use the ACF as a chain oil, that's quite a misappropriation I think.

I have often heard that cheap chainsaw oil works well, also from the previous owner of my CB500 (1996 model, 76000 km).

[Rev Ken 6,327]

Isn't it strange that so many people use products that were never designed to oil chains - let alone bike chains, but ignore products designed for the job! eg ACF50 is a wonderous substance, but it ain't a chain lubricant. Similarly WD40 isn't designed to clean chains and there is a risk that it might attack the 'O' rings, or penetrate the seals and dissolve the 'life-long' grease inside.

 

I know that some people have used many products over the year and swear by them - but for my money I follow what it says in the handbook, or use one of the better 'non-fling' lubricants - like Wurth'.  (I had a relation that swore that smoking cigarettes kept him going - and it did well into his 90s, but that doesn't say that smoking is good for you!)

[Guest Silver Hawk]

Isn't it strange that so many people use products that were never designed to oil chains - let alone bike chains, but ignore products designed for the job! eg ACF50 is a wonderous substance, but it ain't a chain lubricant. Similarly WD40 isn't designed to clean chains and there is a risk that it might attack the 'O' rings, or penetrate the seals and dissolve the 'life-long' grease inside.

 

I know that some people have used many products over the year and swear by them - but for my money I follow what it says in the handbook, or use one of the better 'non-fling' lubricants - like Wurth'.  (I had a relation that swore that smoking cigarettes kept him going - and it did well into his 90s, but that doesn't say that smoking is good for you!)

 

Ken,

 

I was thinking the very same only this morning.  I find it really strange that people are using ACF50 / WD-40 as a chain lubricant.  I've had many vintage bikes over the years (still have 5), all with non-O ring chains, and I would regularly lubricate these with engine oil...in fact, on some of the bikes there is an oil mist feed from the crankcase to the primary and rear chains.  But every year, I'd remove the chain, clean it in paraffin / petrol and dip it in hot, molten Linklyfe (see below).

 

On endless, O-ring chains, I'm quite happy to assume the O-rings are doing their job in keeping in the grease on the inner rollers...and I'll look after the outside of the chain with regular applications of a good quality fling-resistant spray grease.

 

Sadly, Linklyfe is no longer made, but Putoline do one.

 

 

 

[Rev Ken 6,327]

Oh the times I have nearly set the house on fire when I forgot I had 'Linklyfe' on the gas stove 'cooking' my chains! The smell wasn't appreciated by my parents either!

[Guest Silver Hawk]

Oh the times I have nearly set the house on fire when I forgot I had 'Linklyfe' on the gas stove 'cooking' my chains! The smell wasn't appreciated by my parents either!

 

I'm not allowed to do it in the house...not that I'd want to.  But I do enjoy heating up the can on my camping Primus, and then watching the chain sink into the liquid and the air bubbles come out of each link in the chain.  I need to get out more   .  Chains look luvvly after this treatment  .

[TJW 44]

The business end yesterday after a good sorting out............

 

 

Sorry for going off topic, but may I ask were you got the crash protectors/bobbins from (showing in the first pic)?

Been thinking about getting some to protect frame, etc. in case of an accident but not sure if to go for crash bars instead.