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Chain lubrication


Guest Crusty

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  • steelhorseuk

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  • Mike5100

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.... that's the big debate people have been having Shigsy. I'm going with the clean all the gunge off then just use acf50/wd40. Looking OK so far. Mike

I agree Mark. An auto oiler isn't for me as I prefer to do it myself rather than rely on something that does it automatically. I'd be too worried whether or not its working properly. Besides, it only

Isn't 'tight spot' misnamed ?   Isn't the rest of the chain 'stretched' ?  People may claim they do not thrash the bike, but all it takes is just one quick start from the traffic lights and that's it

I got them from that auction site. It was somewhere in spain, and it may even have been from the chap tc3 mentions.

Ian I remember you got the last pair that guy from the Canary Islands had. Seems to not have got anymore in as not found him on the auction site since.

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Guest chickenflaps

After this morning's ride I thought I'd squirt some chain lube on while the chain was "warm".  In a light bulb moment (for me anyway) and with the bike on the centre stand, I slipped it into 2nd gear and gently opened the throttle.  With the chain gently whizzing round, the aerosol lube was squirted on and the job was done in about 7 seconds from start to finish.  Just don't do this wearing a long dangly tie.

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Mike5100

hey guys - I don't think those of us who are using acf50 or WD40 are trying to use them instead of grease (or any kind of lubricant).  We are assuming that the o-ring chain has the lubricant sealed within it, and all we are doing is preventing the outer surfaces of the chain from corroding - which these chemicals are indeed designed for.

Mike

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Guest Silver Hawk
What does the sealed lubricant have to do with it? You're missing lubricant on the open part of the chain if you're not using chain oil.

 

+1

 

You need chain oil / grease on the outside of the chain to reduce wear on the sprocket teeth.

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Guest Crusty

Yes, I use acf50 for corrosion protection, but I only do this after a chain clean. I lubricate with Würth dry lube during normal use. As I said, this seems to work for me. I wouldn't use ACF as a primary lube.

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steelhorseuk

I have already had to adjust mine, have not even done 2000K yet! Also found a tight spot so that made it harder to adjust correctly!

I guess my fast riding style has not helped but I also wonder if I am over-lubricating the chain. Some people say you can do that.

I am popping into Honda dealer coming weekend to have it checked.

Mark

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Mike5100

I have used only acf50 and have done 6000 miles and the chain slack is within spec - never been adjusted.

Mind you I have mentioned before that I'm not convinced you can do it according to the book.  With the bike on the sidestand the distance from the underside of the swingarm (ie the plastic chain guide) to the bottom of the slack chain is 40mm.  If I push the slack of the chain up, it therefore hits the plastic guide in 40mm and I'm sure if the swing arm wasn't in the way it would go further.

Has anyone else run into this .... or is it a non issue and should I only be concerned when the distance between the swingarm and the bottom of the slack chain exceeds the 40mm.

Mike

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Mike5100

thanks shiggsy 

Also .... from an earlier very good post about chain tension, it seems that manufacturers describe various ways of adjusting chains (on sidestand, on centrestand etc), but whatever method is used should result in a play of about 10mm when the bike is fully loaded in normal riding position.

Well I checked mine and it's miles off.  When adjusted for 40mm on sidestand, it's maybe 30mm with me sitting on the bike and someone holding it upright.  Admittedly it might possibly be 10 mm if I was heavier and had a heavy pillion and luggage (but somehow I doubt it - and anyway if this is how I always ride, shouldn't I be adjusting the chain so that it gives me the 10mm of chain slack with just me on it)

Mike

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steelhorseuk

Gents, it is a different tolerance for the S version of the NC, so you are both right pertaining to your own bikes!

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Mike5100

well spotted smudge.  I'd still like someone to confirm (or not) my observation regarding the X

Mike

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Gents, it is a different tolerance for the S version of the NC, so you are both right pertaining to your own bikes!

Good spot smudge, sorry Emil :blush:

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Guest motorboy

No Mike 5100, if that is the way you want to do it just sitting on it may not be enough weight the tightest point of the chain is when the swing arm is straight  before after that it is looser..

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steelhorseuk

Hi Mike, I would advise that you pop into your Honda dealer and have the mechanic do a quick check for you and answer your query first hand on the Honda approved methology.

Don't forget we bought into the product and part of that  purchaseis the dealers expertise!

I am doing the same this Saturday myself as I am not happy with the chain adjustment on my NC(S).

All the best to all..

Mark

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Mike, while the amount of slack is different, there shouldn't be a fundemental difference between the design of the mechanism.

I checked it as depicted in the manual, put the bike on the side stand, then pushed the lower side of the chain down -> 17 mm, pushed it up -> 8 mm.

Shouldn't there be audible ratting if the slack is too large? I just got my license in September so I don't have any experience..

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steelhorseuk

Update on mine, I have a D.I.D chain set and the bike has done 1800 miles on it.

Took to dealer Saturday as I found a tight spot when lubing.

Dealer says, need a new chain, front and rear sprocket set!!!

(All on warranty)

Not that impressed considering my mate has done 10K on his VFR at break-neck speeds and not even needed an adjustment yet!

Mark

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  • 1 month later...
Guest sidemp

That shaver brush looks to be a great idea and sits beautifully over the chain...

Looks like it was made for the job..

Well worth the effort and worth trying .. thanks..

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