New Tyres for NC700x

[Guest irishrider]

Hi all. I am looking advice on new tyres for my 2012 Nc700x. I have always used Pilot Road on my other bikes but Pirelli Strada and Bridgestone BT023 have both been recommended to me. Seems to be a problem getting Pilot roads in N Ireland at present so I may be limited with choice. I am taking my bike to France early May and looking for good wear for the motorways and distance.

 

All suggestions welcome please as I have not much experience with tyres on this bike.

 

Thanks

 

Debbie

[Guest Stu]

Wow you've already finished the first tyres?

What were they and how much mileage did you get.

The Metzler Z8 is a good tyre and has beaten the Pilot Road in reviews.

http://www.visordown.com/product-news/metzeler-z8-wins-motorrad-award/20419.html

[Rocker66 34,371]

I changed to 023 as I had used then in past and they give good mileage and wet grip. I used them for years on my Deauvilles and was always satisfied

[moses 130]

BT23 or pilot road 3, both good tyres, good mileage.

[Guest engasal]

BT-023Rs are what my S came with. Hmm...

[Mike5100 2,061]

My bike was fitted with BT023 and I have had to change both at 6000 miles.  There was plenty of tread left but two very prominent flat central areas that were causing some weird handling.  I have gone for the very expensive PR3 s but I can't tell whether the ride is any different

Mike

[Rocker66 34,371]

The 023s that the bike comes with are slightly different to the 023s that you buy as replacements. On My deauvilles I always got 8000 miles out of 023s with no problem and the vast majority of that was motorway work. In case you are wondering as an all year round rider I tend to change my tyres sooner rather than later

[Rev Ken 6,327]

The 023s that the bike comes with are slightly different to the 023s that you buy as replacements. On My deauvilles I always got 8000 miles out of 023s with no problem and the vast majority of that was motorway work. In case you are wondering as an all year round rider I tend to change my tyres sooner rather than later

It is surprisingly true that bike manufacturers sometimes specify different characteristics from tyre manufacturers, and the 023s you buy aren't necessarily the same!   

[michael 324]

I've enjoyed the longer mileage capabilities of Metzler 880's, but haven't bought them for a while. Not listed for "our," sizes anymore?

[Guest duk2n]

The 023s that the bike comes with are slightly different to the 023s that you buy as replacements. On My deauvilles I always got 8000 miles out of 023s with no problem and the vast majority of that was motorway work. In case you are wondering as an all year round rider I tend to change my tyres sooner rather than later

It is surprisingly true that bike manufacturers sometimes specify different characteristics from tyre manufacturers, and the 023s you buy aren't necessarily the same!   

Hum, interesting... Would you say the same for the Metzelers? I'm asking because they are what I got with the bike, and so far (7,000 miles) I'm so satisfied with them that I'm thinking to buy another set

[Guest irishrider]

Hi,

    Thanks for all your replies, thinking I will go with the B023 as I can get them in N. Ireland at present. My bike has 3500 on the clock and I probably have about 1000-1500 miles left on the clock but my problem is Im going to France towards the end of April on a trip of at least 3000 miles so I have to replace the tyres and get them run in before the holiday. Been trying to use the bike for work to get the wear out of the tyres but the weather is not on my side at present. My bikes was an ex demo with 3000k on the clock before I bought it so whether that explains the excessive wear on the tyres I dont really know.

 

Thanks again everyone for all your help and advice.

 

Debbie

[roddy 845]

I have just had two new BT023s fitted to my NC700S yesterday, I had done 11,000 miles on them and cost £270 for both tyres fitted. Not sure if thats expensive or not?. Has a puncture on the rear which as so happens to have completely worn out as well, with 1mm left on the front. Got them done at a tyre replacement place as opposed to a motorcycle dealer/garage who could not get me in until June. Buyrite tyres done it it 12 hours.

[Guest SRXY]

I've had BT-023's on 3 of my bikes and they have consistently impressed me with their mileage, grip and behavior when things get a bit slippery and wet. I was really disappointed when my X came with these Metzler tyres, I'm not a fan of Metzlers at all.

[Guest GBH]

I've had BT-023's on 3 of my bikes and they have consistently impressed me with their mileage, grip and behavior when things get a bit slippery and wet. I was really disappointed when my X came with these Metzler tyres, I'm not a fan of Metzlers at all.

Funny my bike came with BT-023's but I got the dealer to swap them with another bike which had Metzlers before delivery.

 

Each to their own I guess but after taking BT-021 off my bike with loads of tread left I'm no longer a fan of Bridgestones. I think the new Z8 is the best tyre I have riden on and having done over 1K miles on my VFR12 they are still looking like new! 

[roddy 845]

Interesting how tyres vary I was going to go for Metzlers this time, maybe will try them next time around. Although bridgestone have now brought out the next generation from BT023s called T30's.

 

George why did you change your tyres with loads of tread left? surely that's a good thing ?

[Guest GBH]

 

George why did you change your tyres with loads of tread left? surely that's a good thing ?

 

My VFR came with BT021 and at first they were fine but after 2K I started having big spin ups in the wet without trying. I mean I was accelerating slowly in 2 and third low revs <3K and at first I thought I had pulled the clutch in by accident until the back end went sideways. That kind of thing really gets your attention and I have never had it before so with 3K on the tyres I changed them. Maybe it is the power and torque of the VFR but I don't get it with the Z8s and the bike is loads better in the bends, only down side is I'm going faster. So that is why I changed the tyres early and why I now don't like Bridgestones and had them removed from the new NC700 in favour of Metzelers.

 

But as I said each to their own.

[Guest grimbo]

My bike was fitted with BT023 and I have had to change both at 6000 miles.  There was plenty of tread left but two very prominent flat central areas that were causing some weird handling.  I have gone for the very expensive PR3 s but I can't tell whether the ride is any different

Mike

I have noticed that my tyres have flat parts down the middle,not to bad at the moment but I can see them and I also felt a little nervous going round a sweeping left hand bend the other day,i thought it was gonna slide for a second but it didn't,why is this,maybe we ride in a straight line a lot more than bends..wonder if I should change them..

[Rev Ken 6,327]

ALL tyres get 'squared-off'. Dual compound tyres with a harder mix for the central part of the tread take longer to square off, but leave the side walls with better gripping softer rubber.

 

Most tyres only lose that 'feel' or performance slowly, even when squaring off, until getting close to the end of their life. If you really feel unsure when riding them change them for a tyre that you have some confidence in. I am happy with PR3s on a more powerful bike as they are great in the wet which is to me the most important characteristic of any tyre - above how well they wear, as I don't bounce very well at my age.

 

I note that the June issue of 'Motorcycle Monthly' (a free publication that can be got in most dealers) have tested the new Pirelli Angel GT and reckon they are as good as their top tyre - Metzeler Roadtec Z8 Interact. (PR3s review is 'Fast handling for a sport touring tyre, good wet performance but lacks stability'. Not that I have experienced any lack of stability...) It might be worth getting a copy!

[Scootabout 2,240]

The advice I've read most often is that rear tyres should be changed with 2 or even 3 mm tread remaining.  I assume this means in the central 'flat' or squared off part.  However that means that the side areas are barely touched - at least if you ride like I do.  Being a bit tight I don't like the idea of changing tyres too early, so I tend to run them until they have maybe 1.5 mm or even the legal minimum of 1 mm in the centre.  At this stage the handling does feel affected a bit, and the risk of a puncture is higher.  Pays yer money & takes yer choice, etc.

[Guest motorboy]

The advice I've read most often is that rear tyres should be changed with 2 or even 3 mm tread remaining.  I assume this means in the central 'flat' or squared off part.  However that means that the side areas are barely touched - at least if you ride like I do.  Being a bit tight I don't like the idea of changing tyres too early, so I tend to run them until they have maybe 1.5 mm or even the legal minimum of 1 mm in the centre.  At this stage the handling does feel affected a bit, and the risk of a puncture is higher.  Pays yer money & takes yer choice, etc.

I'm sure you know that tires have wear bars built in just run them till they show...

[Rocker66 34,371]

The advice I've read most often is that rear tyres should be changed with 2 or even 3 mm tread remaining.  I assume this means in the central 'flat' or squared off part.  However that means that the side areas are barely touched - at least if you ride like I do.  Being a bit tight I don't like the idea of changing tyres too early, so I tend to run them until they have maybe 1.5 mm or even the legal minimum of 1 mm in the centre.  At this stage the handling does feel affected a bit, and the risk of a puncture is higher.  Pays yer money & takes yer choice, etc.

Not only is the risk of a puncture higher but also that of an accident. I would rather pay out a bit earlier than end up in hospital but as you say it's a matter of choice as to highly you value your safety

[dave 959]

Just had to drop out the rear wheel because of a puncture, as usual the spindle was totally dry, but it is really an easy task thanks to the centre stand. 

[Guest Crusty]

Much as I like the supplied Metzeler Z8's for grip and handling, my rear is starting to look thin on 6500, mostly motorway miles. Not good. Granted, I am a big lump, but still, I'd expect more out of a quality tyre.

I think I'm going to go Bridgestone (which I always had on my last bike) when it's time, as they really did perform and wear well.

[Guest Batandball]

Hi Debbie

 

Road pilot 3 due in to hursts @ Sydenham this Monday, seems that everyone is waiting on stock. That said the 023, road smart or Metz are all good tyres.

[Scootabout 2,240]

 

The advice I've read most often is that rear tyres should be changed with 2 or even 3 mm tread remaining.  I assume this means in the central 'flat' or squared off part.  However that means that the side areas are barely touched - at least if you ride like I do.  Being a bit tight I don't like the idea of changing tyres too early, so I tend to run them until they have maybe 1.5 mm or even the legal minimum of 1 mm in the centre.  At this stage the handling does feel affected a bit, and the risk of a puncture is higher.  Pays yer money & takes yer choice, etc.

Not only is the risk of a puncture higher but also that of an accident. I would rather pay out a bit earlier than end up in hospital but as you say it's a matter of choice as to highly you value your safety

 

That's not actually what I said.  It's you who added the safety idea.  Tubeless tyres generally deflate slowly when punctured, rather than blow out.  What did you mean when you referred to accident risk?