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Guest nsa

DCT gearbox stuck in gear

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Guest nsa

This morning my NC700X DCT wouldn't stand still at the traffic lights on my usual commute run, and the switch to put it in neutral didn't work.  The Drive/Sport/Neutral selector wasn't responsive, and I also think that the MT/AT button selected Sport mode.  Turning the ignition off and on again didn't rectify the problem, but just as I was getting off the bike to push it, I could select neutral, then gear, and the problem resolved itself.

 

I'll see if it happens again then call Honda.  I suspect an electrical problem.  It was wet this morning after a dry spell, although I'm clutching at straws here a bit.  Luckily I'm only a year in to the 2yr warranty.

 

Some details:

Bike was July 2012 delivery, has done 2,500 miles, 67mpg average commuting west London to central London.  It's had the chain recall, first service at 900 miles.  Is ridden slowly and rarely goes above 70mph.  I'll check the oil level when I get back to the bike.

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wozza

Hmmmm.....interesting. Still might be a good idea to let your local dealer check your ECU.

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divetrucker

Agree with Wozza. Don't wait for it to happen again.

 

They can run a diagnostic and see exactly what went wrong. Error codes should show up.

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Guest nsa

Agreed, I'll call them today.  Thinking about it again, the only thing I can say 100% happened is that the clutch didn't fully disengage when in traffic, which explains why I couldn't select neutral, because the bike did not think it was at standstill.  Now I can't even remember if the D/S/N selector would put it into Sport mode from Drive.

 

Maybe the throttle cable is sticking.

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Guest SRXY

Nightmare stuff! I know you shouldn't have to do this, but for safety sake maybe a good idea in that situation should it ever happen again (god forbid) would be to kick the sidestand out to force an autokill with the switch?

Edited by SRXY

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Mike5100

I was wondering about whether the tickover was too high also.  You also have the option of the engine kill switch rather than the sidestand of course.

AT/MT switch functions instead as D/S switch ..... I wish  :D   It really annoys me that if I want to make progress on country roads I can't easily switch between D and S mode, and it should be where the auto/manual switch is currently.

Mike

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Guest fresh air

This makes me wonder if I should continue to let my XDC run dry to find out how many miles I can do on a full tank.   I've only done it once but my bike didn't like it - I knew it was due to run out so was only doing 30 mph on a quiet stretch.   The throttle became unresponsive and the engine died out as you would expect, but I think I was in 5th gear and the auto down changes as the bike slowed was very harsh/erratic.

I thought the bike was going to come to a halt, in gear, on a dangerous bend but luckily at about 5 mph it found neutral and I was able to coast to a safe spot.

Naturally, even XDC bikes run out of petrol so the dual clutch model is built with this in mind, but if the gears are electronically commanded and the engine has stopped running would the feed from the battery take over as long as the ignition is still on ?     

The next time I know I am going to run out of petrol would it be better to hit the neutral button (if I can get my thumb onto it - see above post from Mike) and would the neutral button not work if the engine has cut out ?     Curses for all this modern technology !!

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wozza

@Fresh air...I must admit I never ever let my bike or car go anywhere empty. I know modern vehicles have plenty of fuel filters, but overtime a little bit of sediment will build up in the bottom of your tank and I don't like the idea of that being dragged into the fuel filter.

Edited by wozza

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Guest SRXY

 You also have the option of the engine kill switch rather than the sidestand of course.

I suggested the sidestand because he said that turning the bike on and off with the key did nothing. My thinking was that the sidestand switch might force the ECU into a reset that simply powering off didn't.

 

I like the location of the N/D/S switch because I've unintentionally bumped the A/M button a few times and would hate to do that if it was the N/D/S! lol

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Guest nsa

Good point about the side stand, thanks.  I'll do that if it happens again.  It was definitely consistent with a high idle, therefore clutch not disengaging and no neutral.  I've called Honda anyway and will take it in for them to look at.

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Mike5100

 

 You also have the option of the engine kill switch rather than the sidestand of course.

I suggested the sidestand because he said that turning the bike on and off with the key did nothing. My thinking was that the sidestand switch might force the ECU into a reset that simply powering off didn't.

 

I like the location of the N/D/S switch because I've unintentionally bumped the A/M button a few times and would hate to do that if it was the N/D/S! lol

 

I suspect the sidestand simply triggers the same circuit that the engine kill switch does.  I agree that turning off with a key probably goes through a  graceful shut down.

 

I can see what you mean if you were revving the bike in neutral and accidentally bumped the n/d/s switch  :D but bumping it from d to s or s to d would probably have a similar effect as bumping from ato M or vice versa. in other words 'not much'  I would definitely run the small extra risk if the NDS and AT switches could trade places.

Mike

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Guest SRXY

You mean you don't stand at the stop light and rev your bike like a chav! You're befouling the poor name of bikers everywhere! :D

 

You do have a point though...I use my thumb  to switch from N to S mode, but the trigger would be more convenient (like the high beam trigger usually on bikes).

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Mike5100

yeah mainly because you could do it without rolling the throttle at all - which I seem to do when I reach over to hit the d/s switch.  In fact if I'm riding behind a vehicle I want to overtake and I don't want to risk either speeding up or slowing down, I will switch between D and S by bringing my left hand over.  Not the safest thing to do when you are about to overtake  :D

Mike

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Guest SRXY

Wow....ok! Can see why you would want it the other way then. Thankfully, years of playing guitar and piano have endowed me with a flexible thumb....so I can easily reach without giving too much throttle.

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Guest NCXrookie

Nothing unexpected happened yet on my DCT.  Best to get it checked over though.  My dealer has always been OK with warranty stuff, which is very rare anyway,  which is why I have always gone back for another Honda.

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Guest fresh air

So what are the correct revs for the XDC auto version ?  On cold my revs are 1.5 thousand and as I pull away, then ease off on the throttle the bike coasts at 7 - 10 mph with the throttle fully closed.   To me, that is dangerous because I have to apply the brakes as I negotiate the narrow, windy, pea-shingle track, but I gather the revs need to idle high because of the extra work an automatic has to perform - is that right ?

 

Once it is fully warmed up after I have ridden it for half an hour, if I then turn it off and then on again it then idles at 1 thousand revs plus 1bar showing on the dashboard, which must be about 1.2 thousand revs which is insufficient to make the bike move with the throttle off.

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Guest SRXY

Fresh Air, the 1400-1500rpm idle is just the "auto-choke"/high idle system in the ECU making it run at high idle until the bike's sensors deem it's warm enough not to chance a stall. If you leave you bike idling on the sidestand you'll see this happens after about 20-30s with ambient temperature around 15-20deg C. This is why I warm up my bikes, it makes the initial auto changes much more civilized.

 

I personally don't want a bike that idles fast enough to pull itself along. So far it seems to me that all control should be in your throttle hand and rear brake pedal foot with these bikes. This mimics feathering the throttle in manual bikes.

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Guest billc700s

So what are the correct revs for the XDC auto version ?  On cold my revs are 1.5 thousand and as I pull away, then ease off on the throttle the bike coasts at 7 - 10 mph with the throttle fully closed.   To me, that is dangerous because I have to apply the brakes as I negotiate the narrow, windy, pea-shingle track, but I gather the revs need to idle high because of the extra work an automatic has to perform - is that right ?

 

Once it is fully warmed up after I have ridden it for half an hour, if I then turn it off and then on again it then idles at 1 thousand revs plus 1bar showing on the dashboard, which must be about 1.2 thousand revs which is insufficient to make the bike move with the throttle off.

Have a look under downloads, there is a section on one of them about idle and limits for both models, it is as below so yours appears to be correct.

IDLE SPEED: 1,200 ± 100 min-1 (rpm)  ( taken directly from manual. )

This must be checked with the engine fully warmed up

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Guest fresh air

 

So what are the correct revs for the XDC auto version ?  On cold my revs are 1.5 thousand and as I pull away, then ease off on the throttle the bike coasts at 7 - 10 mph with the throttle fully closed.   To me, that is dangerous because I have to apply the brakes as I negotiate the narrow, windy, pea-shingle track, but I gather the revs need to idle high because of the extra work an automatic has to perform - is that right ?

 

Once it is fully warmed up after I have ridden it for half an hour, if I then turn it off and then on again it then idles at 1 thousand revs plus 1bar showing on the dashboard, which must be about 1.2 thousand revs which is insufficient to make the bike move with the throttle off.

Have a look under downloads, there is a section on one of them about idle and limits for both models, it is as below so yours appears to be correct.

IDLE SPEED: 1,200 ± 100 min-1 (rpm)  ( taken directly from manual. )

This must be checked with the engine fully warmed up

 

Many thanks Bill.

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Mike5100

yeah - I agree with the last two posts.  If yours is taking any longer than 30 seconds to a minute to settle down to the correct revs, then it must have a fault.  I was going to say the auto choke must be faulty, but I guess they are a thing of the past and the whole timing of the richer mixture will be controlled directly by the ECU.

Mike

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Guest SRXY

Sorry that should read "feathering the clutch" and not "feathering the throttle"*

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Guest fresh air

I'm still waiting for my paddock stand to arrive which was thrown in with the deal, so when I chase them up tomorrow I'll ask the workshop to listen to the bike to check idle revs.

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Guest billc700s

yeah - I agree with the last two posts.  If yours is taking any longer than 30 seconds to a minute to settle down to the correct revs, then it must have a fault.  I was going to say the auto choke must be faulty, but I guess they are a thing of the past and the whole timing of the richer mixture will be controlled directly by the ECU.

Mike

There is also a lamda sensor in the exhaust to sense the exhaust gas emmissions which feeds data to the ECU ie if it is running too lean or too rich. These are easily damaged by dodgy fuel or any exhaust blowing before the sensor which will give false info to the ECU best to stick to letting the dealer check it out.

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Guest SRXY

In my experience Lambda sensor's are pretty tough things and not as sensitive a folks tend to make out. Iif you touch the bulb you can screw it up, but otherwise they can take a lot of abuse.

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motorboy

If you not picking up any codes that would show in the speedo I doubt  you have a lasting problem unless you can get it to do it again what can the dealer do with all the electronics on these new bikes when something like that happens only once we call that coughing up a hair ball

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