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Fake tank lock dont work


Guest adis.arapcic

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Guest wust588

I might be wrong, but it seems to me that Honda will replace the faulty lockset with a new "faulty lockset", for it only to happen again.

 

Unless of course Honda have re-designed it in record breaking time.

 

Someone on the International NC forum has described his emergency fix for this very situation. Namely a length of wire fixed in place, ready to use when the lock fails.

 

Maybe Honda should set in motion a recall for these locks?

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Just out of interest to myself (and maybe others), I have had my new 750X for almost 3 weeks now and have opened the notank a few times and have noticed that it is quite a bit easier to turn the key to the left than the right. When I open the notank, I always push down on it before turning the key to maybe lessen the resistance. The notank always opens without any bother but as I say there is noticably more resistance when turning to the right!

Now to come to my question (thank the Lord I hear you say!). I have never opened another notank so have nothing to compare mine with so is it normal for there to be more resistance when opening the notank as opposed to opening the rear seat? I guess they are different mechanisms to open the notank and rear seat even though they use the same lock/key.

 

Thanks,

 

Keith

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Guest sllewji

My bike is two weeks old and I have the same behaviour.

There is more resistance when turning the key right to open the currybox, than when turning it left to open the rear seat.

I also push down on the currybox lid to try and reduce resistance.

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Thanks Ian, that is really helpful and useful to know  not just for me but for others who are wondering whether their new bike displays "normal" behaviour. Let's hope that the lock continues to perform correctly and doesn't succumb to the problems that have befallen others!

 

Regards,

 

Keith

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Guest nigel w

That is how mine was befor the lock gave up and diddn't open, easy to the left, tight to the right. But it's a little better now the lock has been replaced, saying that the lock does seem a little loose in it's fitting. it's not a secure tight fit in it's holder.

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Guest hunter

Hi.

 

Originally / from collection of my new NC the tank lock was almost impossible to turn to the right resulting in twisted keys / Cause was wrongly routed cable which was repaired under warranty.

 

The tank lock was then very easy to operate however both keys had become twisted and were difficult to insert into ignition with potential to cause damage to the ignition barrel (The lock was always easily turned to the left) .

 

Honda advised a lock set change as it was likely there may be problems with keys and ignition barrel further down the line with potential to cause stranding.

 

I booked NC in about three weeks ago but parts on back order / Lock set changed yesterday and now have two new non twisted keys which easily fit into and operate the new HISS Ignition barrel however the new tank lock is stiffer to operate than my previously repaired lock mechanism !!

 

The new lock is still easily turned to the left but unfortunately now much too tight to the right, in my opinion, so I decided not to use the new non twisted Honda keys and to buy a non chipped key for use in the tank lock so that if the non chipped key twists or breaks then I will still have two non twisted ignition keys, can cheaply renew the non chipped key thus avoiding problems with the ignition barrel.

 

I asked Honda dealer if they could cut me a non chipped copy however they said it would have to be another chipped key and we agreed it would be more economic to visit a key cutting shop and buy a non chipped key so I visited a well known high street key cutting shop straight after collecting the bike yesterday.

 

Once at the shop I explained what I was looking for and why only to be told that they are not allowed to copy chipped keys onto non chipped keys and could therefore only provide me with a chipped copy at a cost of £75 !

 

So I went to an independent shop and had no problem getting a non chipped copy for £7 which does the trick.

 

 

Edited by hunter
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Guest sllewji

I took my bike in for its 600 mile service today (arriving at the dealer with _exactly_ 600 miles on the clock :D), and they gave me another NC750X (manual though) as a courtesy bike.

I tried the top lock and found it _very_ easy to turn in either direction, whether or not I pushed the lid down first.

I've asked them to double check the cable routing on mine based other members experiences.

I think I'll also get another, non-chipped, key cut too - just in case.

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Hi Ian, it will be interesting to hear what they say and do about your lock in view of the fact that the courtesy bike seems easier to operate. I have yet to take my bike in for its 600 service but will ask them to check it out!

I look forward to hearing the outcome!

 

Keith

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I took my bike in for its 600 mile service today (arriving at the dealer with _exactly_ 600 miles on the clock :D), and they gave me another NC750X (manual though) as a courtesy bike.

I tried the top lock and found it _very_ easy to turn in either direction, whether or not I pushed the lid down first.

I've asked them to double check the cable routing on mine based other members experiences.

I think I'll also get another, non-chipped, key cut too - just in case.

Hi Ian, how did your 600 mile service go and what was the outcome regarding the notank lock?

Hope it all went well and that things were resolved to your satisfaction!

Please let us know how you got on. It sounds like there are going to be quite a few of us who are interested in your reply!

 

Keith

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Guest sllewji

To be fair I wouldn't say that turning the key to the right on my bike is difficult, but I just noticed that it was easier on the courtesy bike.

The lock and cable routing to the curry box was checked during the service and they reported it was fine.

The best advice they gave was to push down on the lid when turning the key which I have been doing anyway.

Another comment they made was that the bike is still pretty new, whereas the courtesy bike has nearly 4000 miles on it - so give it a little more time to settle in. This seems fair enough, as I also noticed that the seat on the courtesy bike was more comfortable, so I guess that it had settled in over the miles.

I hope my seat settles in the same way, the sooner the better, please! :D

Edited by sllewji
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Thanks Ian, it sounds like your mind has been put at rest over one or two matters which were concerning you(and me).

Did the 4000 mile courtesy bike's engine feel smoother/looser/faster/different than your own? Does your own bike feel better(if only psychologically :D )

 

Keith :flowers:

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Guest taylorshaun

Hello all,

 

Just to add a global perspective, I'm from the UK but living in Tokyo and my 750X 'tank' lock just broke same as lots of others here. Bike was about 6 weeks old & 2500km and only been out half a dozen times as I just use it at weekends.

 

The dealer that supplied it has been great, a guy spent 3 hours opening and making a temporary fix to get me going as, even here in Japan, the parts are on back order and I have to wait nearly 2 weeks. All warranty work, with not a question of any payment as " .... healing by guarentee ..." as it said on the paperwork (thanks Google translator).

 

I helps to put pressure on the lid when you open, but come on Honda, get your act together on your locks in general.

 

Shaun.

 

PS Just love the bike, I've had too many to remember over the years, but this little fellow is just so easy to live with and fun, whether it's traffic, expressways or twisting Japanese mountains, it just does "it".

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Guest sllewji

Thanks Ian, it sounds like your mind has been put at rest over one or two matters which were concerning you(and me).

Did the 4000 mile courtesy bike's engine feel smoother/looser/faster/different than your own? Does your own bike feel better(if only psychologically :D )

 

Keith :flowers:

Yup - all is good for now at least :D

 

I've _always_ found that a bike (or a car for that matter) runs better after a service - but I'm pretty sure that must be 90% psychological as my mind can't conceive of spending potentially hundreds of pounds for no immediate and noticable benefit!

 

The courtesy bike seemed to be a whole defferent ride, probably because it was manual - and I've been training myself _not_ to reach for the clutch and gear level when coming to a stop (yup, nearly stalled it a couple of times :D)

When I did get the hang of gears again, I found myself revving higher before a gear change than the DCT does, although I didn't hit the rev limiter this time - like I did on my first test ride of a NCX.

 

It did seem a little looser - but I have noticed my NC starting to loosen up a litttle - or perhaps that's just me!

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  • 4 weeks later...
Guest The Ronin

Bent one key, not enough so it doesn't work but it takes a few tries to get it to open the box or start the engine. Moving the key to the left first helps a bit. I might ask a key shop to see if they can slightly bend it straight. I moved on to my spare and things were going great until a few days ago. I think the cooler weather and rain might play a part in it. After reading this thread I think I am not the only one. Pushing down on the frunk helps a lot, so thanks for that bit of advice.

 

Also thanks for the advice about getting a cheap(er) non-chipped key cut and getting the dealer to look at the lock.

Edited by The Ronin
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Guest robson

I have put some lubricant from day one into the lock since it seemed to me hard to open, plus to prevent moisture to get in.

Also I press the lid when opening frank, it does have more resistance then when opening rear seat. The fact the key is not going in

all the way bothers me from the beginning, it's accident waiting to happen. Getting non-chipped key is an idea.

 

id that problem only for nc750x?  no issues in nc700x/

Edited by robson
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  • 2 weeks later...

i had a non chipped key cut for the no tank, which i then cut down and araldited a  black pepsi bottle cap (after rubbing off the pepsi logo) onto the cut down key which stays in the lock as it looks like it is part of the bike, my method for opening the lid is to  push the lid down with the  heel of my hand  and turn knob / key with thumb and fore finger.

 

al

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My Frunk lock went the same way today. Turned the key to the right and nothing. Tank works OK (for now). I'll let you know what happens next. Very disappointed about this as I've only had the bike for about 2 months.

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same disappointment here, have bike for a month and the key slightly bent. I must add I use frank very seldom really.

This is a joke from honda, what a stupid design,

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just got new key for frank only cut today so I feel safer right now although the picture of me trying to get a fuel in

somewhere faraway from home and not being able to open the real tank scares me I have to say...

Edited by robson
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  • 2 years later...

There's a number of topics on the international NC forum relating to this, including 'How to open glove box without a key' by 'hondabikepro' and 'Emergency frunk cable made simple' by member 'itlives'. (Obviously the latter precaution is best taken before any problem occurs with the key-operated release mechanism.) Because I could see this becoming a widespread problem, I translated the keyless entry procedure from American and summarised it as follows:

 

If the key turns in both directions and the rear seat opens but the tank-box will not, it’s likely that the white cable holder on the bottom of the key assembly is faulty. (NB: This is part of the lock assembly and can’t be bought separately.) Here is how to activate the cable to open the tank-box and access the lock:

 

1. Remove the two push-pins on the right side of the black plastic housing that the tank-box key goes in.

 

2. Now you can pull the right side silver plastic scoop backwards. Pull it backward just enough to remove the front clips from the black plastic, taking care not to break the tab on the upper rear corner of the silver scoop. There is still one bolt holding the cover that you can’t get to with the tank-box lid in the closed position but, if you just pull the silver scoop up, you can see a hole. Look into the hole with a torch and you will see the lock and cable.

 

3) Make a small rod with a hook at one end and use this to hook the inner cable only (not the outer housing). Pulling on the inner cable will open the glove box allowing complete dismantling and access to the lock.

 

Unfortunately the accompanying pics had timed out, so I was not able to view or copy them. When I pm'd hondabikepro asking him to re-post the pics, he replied saying he no longer has them but added the following:

 

"Sorry did not get wright back to you, i am on the road, i leave for Oregon next week, and then to Texas, and then to colorado to do the the bdr. will not be back till mid august. i do not no how to repost the pics, i do not have the pics in photo bucket anymore. but if you pull up on the trunk on the right side at the point, you can see one screw, take this screw out, it will be tight not very much room, then the two in the front of that cover, then pull the cover back and off. if you look under the key from the right there is a hole, in side is the cable and latch, try to pull the cable. if anyone know how to repost the pics, without photo bucket please pm me. dale"

 

Not sure how helpful the above is but may be better than nothing!! When/if I get this fully documented, I'll re-post.

 

I honestly despair over Honda's apparent inability to design keys and related assemblies that are fit for purpose - this is a serious blind-spot in their technical vision.

I just faced this awkward situation with house keys, cellphone and top box keys inside.

Thanks to your explanation I managed to open the compartment without any damage. First thing tomorrow morning I'll visit the agent to see what he has to say.  I only have 2,000 Km on my NC750XA but I was always suspicious about how that lock felt whenever I tried to open it.

Thank you very much again and cheers.

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