Guest andrem Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 Hey guys and gals!I've tried adjusting the gear leaver to better suit my hand and where I want the friction zone to be...but however I want it, I can't seem to get everything to match right. When I shift, I get a very noticable loud "click" when shifting it up, sometimes when the engine is cold and trying to shift into first, it grinds into the gear (helps by blipping the throttle). Also, the clutch arm on the engine, how much play should that actually have? I've had it tight, i've had it loose but I just want it, perfect(!) And by perfect, the gears going in smooth, not loud click noises or grinding of gears in the morning. For those that haven't adjusted, does it make a loud click when up or downshifting?? Perhaps I've just forgotten! And, how much play does you clutch arm (by the engine) have? Link to post
Guest Neil700 Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 Hi Andre. The clutch lever should have 2-3 mm of play. The click on up shifting is pretty normal. The way I eliminate it is by applying a bit of pressure to the shift lever (pre-loading) before each shift and this results in smooth quiet shifts. Give it a try maybe Link to post
Guest bonekicker Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 Andre yes they are all the same very noisy especially into 1st gear--- I stop engine after warming up and put into gear, pull clutch in then restart engine, no noise then. !!!!! Link to post
bazza 3,629 Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 Mines a DCT - but most modern bikes are really smotth changing up as long as you don't use the clutch- just take the upward twist off the twistgrip.I found that gives a much smoother change.I t's not to be used changing down though! Link to post
kharli 100 Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 whats weird is mine changes much smoother clutchless ..though I don't like doing it Link to post
Guest robin Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 Nothing wrong with clutchless gear changes. It's the way to go. Link to post
Guest bonekicker Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 I didn't like saying in case others thought I was Stupid??? Well??? I change gears quite a lot mostly up and go into gear no problem without clutch, just because as per ****** usual I forget to pull clutch in OK !!! Link to post
Guest andrem Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 Yes, I know about clutchless upshifts, I'm not gonna start doing them yet, untill i've gained more experience with the bike and all that goes with it. So the little clutch arm (by the engine again) should have 2-3 mm of play.....how is everybodys clutch leaver? Does it also have a bit of play before coming into the friction zone? Mine doesnt have that much, perhaps 1 cm or so. Link to post
Guest nigel w Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 Hi andrem, I like to run my clutch with 10 to 15mm of free movement at the ball end of the clutch lever on the handlebars. As the bike and clutch get hot that free play will reduce, so if you have too little free play you can get clutch slip. Changing gear at to low revs can also cause a clunky gear change, I like to change up between 3000 and 4000 rpm and for me thats nice and smooth. One other thing check you chain free play, too much can cause clunky changes. Hope this is of some use. Link to post
Guest scratch Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 I get a smooth change between 3000 - 4500 rpm, below that it is a bit clunky, and there is a noticeable click. But I figure this is due to the design of the internal bits I can't see. Andrem - sounds like all is about as it should be. When changing up, I accelerate but ease off on the power, rather than close right off, to stop the revs from falling back too far, change up and wind the power back on. Pre-loading the gear lever, as per Neil700's post helps, too. Link to post
embee 7,288 Posted July 31, 2014 Share Posted July 31, 2014 As the others say, the important thing is to make sure there is always "some" free play in the clutch cable. Like nigel w above, usually I set it with probably 6-10mm at the ball end of the hand lever. My NC is a DCT so I can't speak for the NC specifically but all my other bikes are manuals. Other thing to check is that the oil level is not too high. Even just a small ovefill will make the gear-changes clunky. Check with the engine hot, stop and allow to stand for around a couple of minutes then check with the dipstick resting on the threads, not screwed in, with the bike upright. Some of my bikes give a much smoother change if I use only half the clutch lever travel during upshifts, a sort of half-way house between clutch and clutchless shifting. Also do the shift quickly without letting the engine speed drop much, that can help. If you pull the clutch in and close the throttle, and pause slightly allowing the engine revs to drop before shifting you may well find it clunks quite heavily. Link to post
Guest Mac750 Posted November 24, 2016 Share Posted November 24, 2016 Honda have never really mastered a silent gear change into first. But it is much better than BMW K series. K750 K100 K100. Kerrrrrrrrrrrrrunch 1st Kerrrrlunk. 2nd Zerrrrweeeee False neutral Kerrbonk. Hurried 3rd Kerlunka. 4th click. 5th then the same thing down again Link to post
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