Another DCT stuck in gear

[Huskyteer 1,091]

Had the flashing-dash-in-gear-indicator-panel thing again twice at the weekend. As before, switching the ignition on and off fixed the problem, so I wonder if it is in fact a separate issue to the sensor blowing, when it wouldn't go back into gear at all?

 

Either way, some phone calls in my future

 

For the record, the first time was after some fairly aggressive acceleration for an overtake, the second time ditto coming out of a bend. Perhaps knocking it down a gear with the button will prevent this happening?

Edited March 23, 2015 by Huskyteer

[dandemann8 776]

Have you had any comeback from your dealer/Honda as to what is causing this....?

[Exceledsteve 2,191]

Stuff like this worries me. I'm a prospective buyer drawn by the DCT technology. When I hear about these sorts of things (which is why I'm on this forum prior to buying) I can feel my feet getting cold. Any words of comfort or do you all ride around wondering if/when you'll be ringing the AA?

[suffolk58 2,286]

Stuff like this worries me. I'm a prospective buyer drawn by the DCT technology. When I hear about these sorts of things (which is why I'm on this forum prior to buying) I can feel my feet getting cold. Any words of comfort or do you all ride around wondering if/when you'll be ringing the AA?

Don't worry Steve. Mine was one of the DCT's that stuck in gear (happened once a year ago and not since).

Compared to my previous BMW (broken drive shaft, failed clutch, broken bevel drive and electrical problems) it's ultra reliable.

[embee 7,288]

Stuff like this worries me. I'm a prospective buyer drawn by the DCT technology. When I hear about these sorts of things (which is why I'm on this forum prior to buying) I can feel my feet getting cold. Any words of comfort or do you all ride around wondering if/when you'll be ringing the AA?

Alice's bike seems to have a problem which, I suspect, the earlier diagnosis didn't identify correctly. The dealer will have done everything right, but personally I would suspect a wiring issue. It is very unusual for this type of speed sensor to fail, basically they are simply an inductive coil, no moving parts, all encapsulated, nothing much to go wrong. I'd suspect that since the "fix" appeared to work for a while, the act of disconnecting and reconnecting to a new sensor will have masked the underlying issue. This is all guess work by me of course. The diagnostics probably can't discriminate between a failed sensor and faulty wiring/connectors to that sensor.

 

There are a lot of DCT Honda's out there, and the number of true DCT faults are very small. 

 

If you really don't feel comfortable with it, then don't go there. However you could look at any of the faults experienced on any of the bikes and use that as a reason not to have one. There were reports of a handful of broken chains on some very early 700 models, but it was sorted and you wouldn't use that as a reason not to have a bike with a chain. The 750 has had an ongoing instrument panel issue, sorted with exchange units. Some manual bikes have had clutch issues. Some bikes seem to have incorrectly machined rear calipers. Where do you stop?

 

At least it's not a BMW.

 

Go with what makes you feel comfortable.

[Guest dentonlad]

Stuff like this worries me. I'm a prospective buyer drawn by the DCT technology. When I hear about these sorts of things (which is why I'm on this forum prior to buying) I can feel my feet getting cold. Any words of comfort or do you all ride around wondering if/when you'll be ringing the AA?

The Crosstourer forum doesn't seem to have any threads about DCT problems. There was one guy (in Iceland) who had a problem which was sorted under warranty. Haven't heard of anything with VFR1200F's either. If the DCT technology can cope with the VFR's engine and weight then the massive bhp and torque of the NC750 shouldn't really cause too much trouble. Most of the reports on here seem to refer to electrical gremlins that have appear to be the root of any troubles.

 

I don't want a DCT, but if I was in the market for one, I wouldn't worry about it. If it was made by Microsoft rather than Honda, I might. 

[Guest EasyTiger]

Stuff like this worries me. I'm a prospective buyer drawn by the DCT technology. When I hear about these sorts of things (which is why I'm on this forum prior to buying) I can feel my feet getting cold. Any words of comfort or do you all ride around wondering if/when you'll be ringing the AA?

Remember the context of any forum like this too...

Especially for a bike with new features, the forum provides a place to compare concerns or raise queries about faults.

Only a small proportion of NC riders will be forum members. Those with no faults may never join or post.

 

If something about the bike is a lemon, you will hear it here.

Chains, Trailmax tyres, instrument panels all made multiple appearances early on.

By contrast, however unpleasant for those who do have them, there are few DCT issues.

 

I carry a breakdown card, but only to ward off bad luck.

If I didn't have it, I'd need it...

17,000 anxiety-free miles so far.

[Exceledsteve 2,191]

Thanks guys. You are the people worth listening to above all others as you know what it is to live with the bike. I appreciate your soothing words.

[Marvincon 1,197]

2 years, 24000 miles on a Crosstourer DCT and 4000 miles on my 750S DCT, faultless.

[Huskyteer 1,091]

Any words of comfort or do you all ride around wondering if/when you'll be ringing the AA?

 

On my previous maxi-scooters, towards the ends of their lives I literally did ride around wondering when they'd next break down. I'm much more confident about the Honda (touch wood), and even when the DCT stuck completely (as opposed to recovering when I turned the bike off and on again), I was able to ride it to the garage (it turned into a scooter, essentially ).

Edited March 24, 2015 by Huskyteer

[Rocker66 34,411]

I never had a technical problem with the DCT on my VFR1200

[Huskyteer 1,091]

Dobles say "bring it it and we'll plug in the diagnostic computer"

 

Cos that worked so well the last time they did it, and the time before when Honda of Bournemouth did it...

[Guest RobF]

Doh!

Jumped on the bike this morning, started it up, went to put it in drive and nothing happened. I could here a click when I hit the starter button but it wouldn't go into drive so I pressume that was a relay operating.

Turned the engine off. Kicked the bike, key in, started it and tried again. This time we had drive. Hasn't played up for the rest of the day.

Ok! Hand up! Who said Hondas were reliable? In 1200 miles ive replaced a shock. Got rust starting on the frame, have a half worn rear tyre, a saggy chain and impending starting problems. It's also depreciated faster than anything I've ever ridden or owned. I've owned 30 year old Land Rovers that have been more reliable and cheaper to run than this Nc!!

[Mike5100 2,061]

I presume you mean you could hear a click when you pressed the S-D button rather than the starter button?  I haven't had this happen with my DCT, but I'm guessing it's something similar to when a manual box can't engage neutral - this has happened to me many times over the years and I simply rolled the bike a foot or so in gear and then it usually enabled neutral to be selected.  It wouldn't be surprising if the DCT box occasionally got itself in a similar state.

If the tyre is a Trailmax then of course that's a known issue - even so it's a black mark for them to have fitted it in the first place I guess.  

My 750X DCT starts much more sluggishly than did my 700X.  So much so that I got the dealer to check it out and got him to start up another DCT that was standing outside in the cold.  It didn't seem very different from mine, so I think it's just a characteristic of the 750.  And it has started every time right through the winter even though it's sounded like it wasn't going to.

The saggy chain thing is familiar too.  Sometimes mine seems saggy and sometimes it's tight.  If the chain is cold it's definitely tight, when it's got warmed up it's saggy.  Setting the sag is tricky too.  If you do it like the manual recommends and you set it with 35mm of sag, then there is plenty of extra sag in the top too.  When this tightens under load it gives you easily 50-60mm of sag at the bottom which makes it look terrible.  I think it needs it though because of the geometry of the rear end especially if you use it for semi off road.

Rusty frame doesn't sound good.  Mine is not showing any rust in 12000 miles and that's through two winters.

Mike

Edited March 24, 2015 by Mike5100

[Guest EasyTiger]

Jumped on the bike this morning, started it up, went to put it in drive and nothing happened.

I had that after West Bay. Then I moved the Kill switch...D'oh!

Otherwise +1 for what Mike says.

[Tonyj 6,907]

Doh!

Jumped on the bike this morning, started it up, went to put it in drive and nothing happened. I could here a click when I hit the starter button but it wouldn't go into drive so I pressume that was a relay operating.

Turned the engine off. Kicked the bike, key in, started it and tried again. This time we had drive. Hasn't played up for the rest of the day.

Ok! Hand up! Who said Hondas were reliable? In 1200 miles ive replaced a shock. Got rust starting on the frame, have a half worn rear tyre, a saggy chain and impending starting problems. It's also depreciated faster than anything I've ever ridden or owned. I've owned 30 year old Land Rovers that have been more reliable and cheaper to run than this Nc!!

should have bought a BMW :0)

[kharli 100]

Two trips to Europe no breakdown cover saved over220 quid and I'm on 40000 miles . I believe it is that reliable and now the money saved will get me out of trouble if so needed.

[Huskyteer 1,091]

Wow. Personally I'd never go to Europe without breakdown cover - I've needed to call it in three times, and even though none of those were for the NC, I can't even begin to imagine how I'd sort out a breakdown in a foreign country without help from home - but I applaud your confidence! 

[Guest EasyTiger]

Inclusive cover for travel abroad can make Carole Nash worth considering if their premium is reasonable when insuring.

Also they include Third Party cover for other bikes, which can be good if touring with others, or someone is ill.

[Huskyteer 1,091]

That's worth knowing! I get mine as a perk of my bank account (smilemore).

[davelondon 48]

Can you buy European breakdown for a specific journey and does anyone have recommendations?

[Tonyj 6,907]

_{used the aa five star}

[Guest EasyTiger]

Both the AA and RAC offer European cover for limited periods/journeys.

I believe if you join ADAC, based in Germany, you will naturally have year-long EU cover.

You can add continental cover on eBike too.

[Guest Koolbikegirl]

im coming to this post late so forgive me please!

Ive read the post but i cant see a solution to my problem, maybe im just not mechanically minded enough. Here goes, please can anyone help?

Occasionally, but not every ride my bike suddenly slows or if im in first it doesnt change up? its happened maybe 4 times since November when i got the bike.

When it slows (in different gears) I see a flashing dash and no mode shown on the gear indicator. Cant change up or down, into D or S, or into manual. I pull over, come to a stop, put it into neutral and select D or S and everything is normal, off i go. It doesnt happen again for ages. No fault message i can see? I dont do many miles in one trip usually less than 50 and theres nothing seems to be common, speed, gear, temperature, speeding up, slowing down?

What wrong with my lovely NC, please help. Thanks in advance!

Ive emailed the dealer i bought if from but of course its easter and hes miles away, ive lots of plans for the next two months all paid for and involving rides out weekends away, advanced rider training, im distraught!

*slopes off to find tissues, proper crying now :-(

Bike's done about 4,000 i say done cause its had a dash change before i got it

[embee 7,288]

That sounds to me very much like an intermittent connection fault somewhere. The engine, transmission, ABS and instrument panels all "talk" to each other, and the fail-safe system means that if something loses connection the DCT will resort to a safe mode so it can't break anything (including you).

 

I wonder if the instrument change it had was something to do with the same fault happening earlier in its life?

 

Since I'm only guessing really, a connection fault could be anywhere, and really needs a systematic work through of all the relevant connectors. A diagnostic test by a dealer "might" pick something up but if it's only intermittent, which it appears to be, and the fault isn't "latched" or stored, it could prove difficult to trace (it will only give a fault code while the fault exists).

 

A very simple check would be the sidestand switch. I suspect that if the sidestand switch were to indicate that it was down while you were moving, it would revert to a failsafe mode (it certainly won't engage a gear if it is down). Check the sidestand is perfectly free and the springs are in good order and hold it up firmly. The switches do tend to get a lot of oil/grease on them from the chain but this doesn't usually cause a problem.